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High Fence for Dado and Panel Raising
High Fence for Dado and Panel Raising Designed by Jim Frye
This fence was built for supporting a sacrificial face attached to the rip fence for dado and rabbit work. By making the right side face tall also, this fence can be used to make raised panels by setting the fence on the left side of the blade. The fence is 24” long, but could be longer to provide more support beyond the blade. The fence is 6” tall and has four partitions to hold the faces parallel. This fence is held on the rip fence by two strips of wood that ride in the T-slots in both sides of the rip fence. This one was made from 3/4” hard maple, but plywood would be more stable, especially if it wasn’t finished like this one is. The fence was built up on the rip fence to ensure that it was square with the fence. Be sure to wax the rip fence before doing any glue so that the dried glue won’t stick to the aluminum and to make it easier to remove the high fence later. There are no drawings for this jig. It was built following the basic design of the tenon jig I designed. See the pictures below for the orientation of the parts. Start by cutting all of the pieces to size and then glue the piece that lays on top of the rip fence to the left face. Clamp the two pieces together and clamp both pieces to the rip fence.
When this has dried, mark the inside of the left face piece for the strip of wood that will ride in the left side T-slot. Glue this strip of wood to the inside of the left face. When this has dried, drive some brads in to further secure it to the face piece.
Next, temporarily clamp the right face piece in place and mark it for the T-slot strip. Remove the right side face piece and glue the T-strip in place. After the glue has cured, drive brads in place like the left side. Now glue the right face piece to the left face/top assembly. Clamp this assembly to the rip fence as before and make sure the partitions are in place until the glue cures.
Now glue and clamp the partitions in place while the assembly is still on the rip fence. After the glue has cured, remove the assembly from the rip fence and reinforce the joints with counter sunk 1 1/4” drywall (or similar) screws. Fill the screw holes with suitable putty and sand the entire unit to 220 grit. Threaded inserts are installed in the left fence to facilitate attaching a sacrificial fence for rabbiting work. If the high fence does not fit snugly on the rip fence, wipe coats of thinned varnish on the inside of the high fence until it does. The original fence had two threaded inserts in the top piece to allow two screws to be tightened down on the rip fence to secure the high fence. The original fits so tightly that they are not used.
Original PDF Document:
highfncins.pdf
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Latest Articles
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by LCHIENSmall T-nut for the left side of BT3 rip fence or front of miter fence (Article Version)
11-30-2023, 04:00 PM
I have found a perfect T-nut for the front of the BT3 miter fence and for the left side of the rip fence (same extrusion used both places)
Its actually a weld nut, but fits the T-slot described above.
Weld Nut: #10-24 Thread, Tab, 1/32 in Base Ht, 3/8 in Base Wd, 5/8 in Base Lg, Steel, 50 PK
Item 1LAJ3 Mfr. Model 1LAJ3 (WW Graingers)...-
Channel: Jigs & Fixtures
12-07-2023, 12:19 AM -
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by LCHIENAfter a bit more thinking, some universal T-bolts for the rip miter fence make more sense than fixture blocks.
The two big slots in the rip fence and the miter fence and the front and rear rails are sized to take 1.00 inches wide x 1/8th and 1-1/8" wide x 1/8th.
So I took some 1/8th flat Aluminum 1.00 inches wide and cut 1-1/8" long to make a 1" x 1-1/8" rectangular plates; I used a short rip fence Block to space the length but not cause a kickback with the...-
Channel: Jigs & Fixtures
07-09-2023, 02:37 PM -
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by LCHIEN
DIY BT3000 FIXTURE BLOCK for Rip/Miter Fence extrusion
Simple shop construction - no machining.
This is intended to fit the top T-track on the Rip and miter fence (uses the same extrusion) on the Ryobi BT3x00 / Craftsman 22811 family of saws
You must make the Block and Base parts; you can make them 1.5" or 3 inches long or modify to any other length.
Make the base from 1/8” aluminum bar, you can get 1.5”, 2”, and 3” at Lowes...-
Channel: Jigs & Fixtures
05-24-2023, 09:55 PM -
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by twistsolRipping thin strips can be accomplished in a number of ways, but this jig is the best I've found so far.
- There is no need to move the fence so every strip comes out exactly the same.
- It is incredibly easy to build
- It keeps your hands well away from the blade the whole time
- It keeps control of the strip you are ripping all the way through the cut and past the blade
- It doesn't interfere with the blade guard.
- You can cut strips from any length of stock
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Channel: Jigs & Fixtures
04-16-2023, 10:42 AM -
by LCHIENBT3000 tall rip fence
09-12-2021, 07:58 PM
I have had a tall BT3000 fence for a number of years, I should have used it a few days ago but I didn't because it was too much trouble, And I paid the price as the tall item was a little unstable and I had a hard time controlling it as the two pieces separated and wallowed out a bigger kerf than I wanted at one place.
Anyway the BT3000 tall fence is generally held on by the T-slots in the side of the rip fence. This is...-
Channel: Jigs & Fixtures
10-20-2021, 03:27 AM -
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by LCHIEN
I am finally going to use my BT3000 extension rails.
My objective is to have some easily attachable rail extensions rather than a full time wide BT3000 using two full rails taking up a lot of space and requiring table support under the right side as many do.
I just want some wider support but not to do full 4x8 sheets of ply... if I need that, I'll break the sheet down on some sawhorses with a circ saw and some guides.
I think I am going to cut my extension...-
Channel: Jigs & Fixtures
08-14-2021, 11:32 AM -
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