stock blade guard modifications

[skamath]

hi,
i was wondering if anybody modified their stock blade guard for dust collection at the blade. i know shark guard is a popular upgrade, but can i do something myself?

i have the craftsman 22124 and in my mind it seems would be possible to drill a hole on top and add a hose receptacle and a little vertical strip in front to enclose the dust and to reduce the dust velocity.

any opinions?

thanks!

[smorris]

I've considered doing that on my 3100 but you'd end up with probably a 1" hose and it isn't going to move all that much air so it's effectiveness will be quite limited. I considered a sharkguard but the lead time is longer than I'm willing to deal with, unfortunately there isn't any alternative.

[skamath]

thanks for the reply. that is a good point. what about have a rectangular opening that would open up a larger area. wondering if there is some fitting (available say at a place like mcmaster-carr) that would be directly mountable on that kind of opening.

thanks!

[Lonnie in Orlando]

Not my idea, but pretty neat ...

- Lonnie

[Stytooner]

Hmm. Nut Guard.
That looks pretty neat.
The only thing you might consider is to off set the jar more to the left. This way the fence can get closer to the guard.

Something else that you might consider using is tapered tubblers like you find in the dolar store. They have clear. These are usually arylic and can be cut with a bandsaw pretty easily.

For that matter, I bend my 4" ports so that they are about 2.5" at the bottom.
I'm sure you could bend some of these other things in a similar fashion and the would have no over hang on the side.

[skamath]

Hmm. Nut Guard.
That looks pretty neat.
The only thing you might consider is to off set the jar more to the left. This way the fence can get closer to the guard.

Something else that you might consider using is tapered tubblers like you find in the dolar store. They have clear. These are usually arylic and can be cut with a bandsaw pretty easily.

For that matter, I bend my 4" ports so that they are about 2.5" at the bottom.
I'm sure you could bend some of these other things in a similar fashion and the would have no over hang on the side.

great ideas. i need to get cracking on some of these things. the dust at the saw blade is a big problem for me.

[liftoff621@hotmail.com]

The Gulpee

Too cheap at the time to buy the Shark. Not so original but works pretty good. It is a 4" X 2 1/2" reducer glued and calked to my stock guard. I run a hose down to it from above. The front of the guard is sealed with clear tape. The tape will soon be replaced with some type of clear plastic.

[skamath]

Too cheap at the time to buy the Shark. Not so original but works pretty good. It is a 4" X 2 1/2" reducer glued and calked to my stock guard. I run a hose down to it from above. The front of the guard is sealed with clear tape. The tape will soon be replaced with some type of clear plastic.

looks like it does the job.

where do you buy this clear plastic? home depot? also what kind of glue can you use on them? is it some kind of quick set glue, or do the glued parts need to be clamped and such.

thanks!

[liftoff621@hotmail.com]

looks like it does the job.

where do you buy this clear plastic? home depot? also what kind of glue can you use on them? is it some kind of quick set glue, or do the glued parts need to be clamped and such.

thanks!

Sorry for the late reply. It does work well for me but I'm always thinking of how to improve it. You can buy the plastic at Home Depot or most hardware stores. I had some from an old project. I used Super Glue and stacked several boards on top of the reducer while the glue set. You need to set boards or bricks on either side of the guard to keep it steady at the same time. The trick is carefully cutting the guard and the reducer for a tight fit. Then calk the seams and clean up the calk.