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Thread: BT3000 Switch Recall--What Are They Supposed to Send?

  1. #1

    BT3000 Switch Recall--What Are They Supposed to Send?

    The free Ryobi "fix" to my old BT3000 switch came in.

    What I got was a package from Gardner of Colombus Ohio containing
    an opened plastic bag labelled PN 664106001, which is the PN for the
    BT3100's complete switch assembly. Except that the bag didn't contain
    anything except diagram #114--the BT3100's rear switch cover--and 3 screws.

    Assuming I can get them to send me a complete switch, will a BT3100
    power switch fit into the BT3000 hole, and not bump into
    the older electrical box?

    Maybe I'll just tell the buyer to get the Sears switch. I now recall how
    annoying I found the right-side switch waaay back in 1992. I believe
    I solved the location problem to my satisfaction at the time
    by just moving the sliding miter table to the right side of the saw
    and doing most of my work from there. I understand that wouldn't
    have helped the faulty switch problem, though.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Katy, TX, USA.
    Posts
    16,957
    You used to get the later BT3000 switch with the cover and the red rocker switch under the cover. Pressingont he cover woiuld turn off the switch, you could not turn it on w/o lifting the cover and flipping the rocker switch to on. There was a metal loop that went thru the cover so you could lock access to the saw switch.

    Not sure if the BT3100 swicth had a different hole or not, but the BT3100 switch has its own set of problems. Tends to stick in the on position.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    PM me (with your e-mail address) for a copy of the BT3 FAQ current vers 4.13

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by LCHIEN View Post
    ...Not sure if the BT3100 swicth had a different hole or not, but the BT3100 switch has its own set of problems. Tends to stick in the on position.
    According to Ryobi, the problem with the BT3000 switch that caused
    them to issue a new switch was that the plastic locking key did not
    always prevent the saw from being turned on.

    According to Russianwolf, the problem with the BT3000 switch which
    made it "DANGEROUS" was that the switch used to get stuck in the
    on position.

    Now you are saying that the problem with the BT3100 switch
    is that it could get stuck in the on position!

    So: did both BT3000 and BT3100 switches tend to get stuck in the
    on position?

    If BT3000 is yes, did the replacement BT3000 switch solve the stuck-in-on problem?

    Was the BT3100 switch ever recalled?

    If yes, did the BT3100 replacement switch solve the stuck-in-on problem?

    Does the Sears switch solve all problems? (Assuming it fits in the hole :)!


    Thank you for your answers and your patience!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Independence, MO, USA.
    Posts
    4,756
    I know there was a push to get the BT3100 switch recalled, around the time it disappeared from the borg. One of our members (don't recall who, or how long ago to do a proper post search), said they even got a call from an FTC, Investigator.

    Even the NEW 21829 uses the old 3100 design.

    See: http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=28938

    And : http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=30083

    There are several more posts, but these are a good start. While I am not sure what the price is for a new BT style switch, I think it would be comparable to the one on the rails above (pricewise).

    SInce your selling the saw, I would give the new owner a printout of this forum and these topics, and just consider rebating the new switch.
    She couldn't tell the difference between the escape pod, and the bathroom. We had to go back for her.........................Twice.

  5. #5
    I'm beginning to doubt that the BT3000 ever had a problem with
    the switch sticking in the ON position. (Remember, Ryobi's claim
    is that it recalled the original BT3000 switch because removing the
    plastic locking key could not always be guaranteed to prevent the saw from
    starting--an entirely different problem.)

    I've searched this forum and its archive (which only dates back to 2002)
    and in all that time only one person even mentions that they had
    a BT3000 switch "go bad," and they don't say it went bad by sticking
    on. Lots of complaints about the BT3100 and BT3100-1, but none
    about the BT3000.

    Either:
    • The forum doesn't go back far enough to capture BT3000
      complaints (the 2-button switch was recalled in 1986).
    • Or, nobody on this forum has a BT3000 with the original 2-button
      switch,
    • Or, the original 2-button switch did not have the stuck-in-ON problem
      and Russianwolf's "DANGEROUS" warning about that switch
      is apocryphal.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Katy, TX, USA.
    Posts
    16,957
    Quote Originally Posted by rtfm View Post
    I'm beginning to doubt that the BT3000 ever had a problem with
    the switch sticking in the ON position. (Remember, Ryobi's claim
    is that it recalled the original BT3000 switch because removing the
    plastic locking key could not always be guaranteed to prevent the saw from
    starting--an entirely different problem.)

    I've searched this forum and its archive (which only dates back to 2002)
    and in all that time only one person even mentions that they had
    a BT3000 switch "go bad," and they don't say it went bad by sticking
    on. Lots of complaints about the BT3100 and BT3100-1, but none
    about the BT3000.

    Either:
    • The forum doesn't go back far enough to capture BT3000
      complaints (the 2-button switch was recalled in 1986).
    • Or, nobody on this forum has a BT3000 with the original 2-button
      switch,
    • Or, the original 2-button switch did not have the stuck-in-ON problem
      and Russianwolf's "DANGEROUS" warning about that switch
      is apocryphal.
    This forum doesn't go back that far (1996, not 1986 BTW)
    Although some people here have had the switch. I read extensively on the old Ryobi forum.



    The CPSC action reads in part:
    All table saws which may have this problem have large rectangular ON/OFF buttons.

    In order to turn the saw on, a switch lock-off key (referred to in the owner's manual as a key plate) must be in place around the ON button. In some cases, if the OFF button is not completely depressed, consumers may be able to restart the table saw without the key. As a result, consumers could be accidentally cut or injured.

    The saws, weighing 75 pounds each, have a 10-inch blade and a sliding miter table.

    The table saws were sold under the brand names and model numbers "Ryobi BT3000" and "Sears Craftsman Model 315.22185."

    Various home centers and hardware stores sold the Ryobi saws nationwide starting in May 1991. Sears stores sold the Craftsman saws nationwide starting in July 1994. Both table saws sold for approximately $400 to $600 each.

    The table saws have a serial number located on a data plate on the right side of the saw. Consumers who own Ryobi BT3000 10-Inch Table Saws with serial numbers ending in four digits lower than 9608 or Sears Craftsman Model 315.22185 10-Inch Table Saws should call (800) 867-9624 immediately with the serial number of their saw. Replacement switches will be installed without charge. Consumers are also encouraged to confirm full release of the ON button when removing their "lock-off key" and to always remove the plug from its power source when the table saw is not in use.
    So according to them the switch on-lockout had a safety issue, if you did not fully depress the off button it would turn off the saw but not lockout the on button. You could push the on-button when you thought the lockout was engaged, and the saw would turn on rather than not turn on as the lockout was supposed to ensure. A mechnical issue, not electrical.

    There have been a great deal of reports here an on the current Ryobi forums of the BT3100 saw not turning off when the switch was shut off. This, in my opinion as an electrical engineer reading the reports, is due to underdesign of the switch so that the contacts are slightly welded together by the sustaining arc when the current is broken, the spring not being strong enough to pull the contacts apart. CPSC or Ryobi have made no official action on this switch.

    These are two entirely separate issues. Your second scenario is correct, I believe. Neither of the BT3000 switches (the two-button one or the later -post '96 red rocker switch with the black cover) ever had an electrical problem, like sticking on.
    Last edited by LCHIEN; 06-18-2007 at 12:10 PM.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    PM me (with your e-mail address) for a copy of the BT3 FAQ current vers 4.13

  7. #7
    Yes, I think we are now saying the same thing.

    Unless someone knows to contradict me, I will go on believing that
    the BT3000 2-button switch's problem is as described by Ryobi.

    Thank you, Mr. Chien, for all your help!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    canoe, british columbia, Canada.
    Posts
    105

    bt3000 switch

    after 10 years of good use, my switch finally gave up the ghost and more or less fell apart. Ryobi promptly sent me a new switch which was very nice of them.
    However, an electrician friend was in my workshop when the switch arrived and he agreed with me that the switch should be on the left side of the saw. He promptly installed not the ryobi new switch but a "proper" switch as found in a house..now at long last i can switch the saw on and off from the left side which is where it should have been in the first place.
    At JOY, thy name is 'NEW SWITCH"

  9. #9
    I have/had 3 versions of the BT. I had a BT3000 that I desassemble and sold, I had a craftsman clone of the BT3000 that I am in the process of disassembling, and I have and use a BT3100.

    The two button switch on the craftsman (identical to the BT3000 two button switch) would jam in the on position. This was a mechanical failure as the button sides would cause the problem. The off switch when depressed, would not kick the button back out as it was designed to do. I see this as very dangerous. And as my plans at the time were to keep both the craftsman and 3100 in use in my shop I bought a replacement 3100 switch to use on it.

    If you would like, I can send you the switch that I was having the problems with and you can decide. The issue had nothing to do with the locking key.

    As far as my 3100 is concerned, I've never had any problems with the switch on it at all. Your milage may vary.
    Mike
    Lakota's Dad

    If at first you don't succeed, deny you were trying in the first place.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by LinuxRandal View Post
    Even the NEW 21829 uses the old 3100 design.
    I don't think so, the appearance of the switches is very different.


    http://cgi.ebay.com/POWER-SWITCH-OUT...QQcmdZViewItem

    I;m fairly sure he's parting out new craftsman saw given the appearance of the parts.
    Mike
    Lakota's Dad

    If at first you don't succeed, deny you were trying in the first place.

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