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Thread: Harbor Freight Riser Block for 32208 14" bandsaw is on!

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Harbor Freight Riser Block for 32208 14" bandsaw is on!

    Installing the Harbor Freight 24536-0ZZA Riser Block Kit. I will endeavor to make this write up as thorough as possible, however I unfortunatley did NOT photograph everything needed. Sorry...

    For those of us that own the Central Machinery model 32206 single speed 14" wood working band saw, or the Central Machinery model 32208 4 speed 14" wood working band saw marketed by Harbor Freight Tools, there are several options for riser blocks. Several users have reported that the Grizzly riser block kit for the Grizzly GO555 is a direct fit. However insuring absolute proper fittment, as well as a color match, which with the Central Machinery green, is going to be tough to do, the best bet is to install a kit designed, and marketed for this specific saw. Available only from Harbor Freight parts, item #24536-0ZZA Riser Block Kit is a direct bolt on with proper fit, function, and appearance...

    A closeup of the Harbor Freight 24536-0ZZA Riser Block Kit box contents. You get a block, a 105" general purpose blade, an extended length post, a long bolt, nut, washer set, extended length METAL blade guard (the standard guard is plastic), and an extending front upper blade guard. Insure all the parts are there.


    You should already have the tension off your blade, the blade should be cool, and of course the saw, unplugged. To release tension on the blade, turn the tensioner wheel counter clockwise until the blade nearly falls off. I made sure of this by removing the upper and lower wheel guards, as well as the throat plate, and the stop pin in the table slot. Once the blade is loose, losen the guide blocks, remove the blade, and store safely.


    Remove the upper blade guide, as well as the upper blade guard by loosening the 10mm bolts, and sliding the components apart.


    Next, move on to removing the guide post shield. Remove the guide post knob completely by hand, then with a wrench (18mm -ish, SAE wouldn't fit at all, nor would 17mm, but 18mm was a sloppy fit). You can now also draw out the original guide post.


    Here is where I wish I had taken photos. Facing the wheels, remove the rear blade guard, and set aside. With a pair of pliers, and a cloth to prevent marring, remove the guard mount stud on the left side of the upper wheel sheild. The part on the left side that the knob threads onto that holds the upper wheel guard in place. There is a sheet metal cosmetic guard just below that that the blade guard covers when it is installed, with a single phillips head screw attaching it at the bottom. Remove the screw, and remove the cover. If it does not come out, you may have to remove the 2 phillips head screws that secure the upper wheel shield, they are close to the tension assembly, you will have to rotate the wheel to get to them one at a time. You have now exposed the bolt that holds the 2 main parts of the saw together.


    Using a strong gripping pair of pliers, and a 24mm socket and ratchet, loosen the bolt and nut, and remove. Using a mallet, whack the upper frame close to the joint, while FIRMLY holding the upper section with the other hand. It should loosen easily. Pull the two halves apart, and set the upper section down.

    The block has pins, and sockets on it, the pins point up. On mine, the California cancer warning faces away from the operator. The pins line up only one way. Line it up. I had to use the mallet to seat my pins and sockets together from the block to the lower section. Next take the long bolt, and one washer, get them ready to install, then place the upper half on the block, while feeding the bolt throug the block, and the upper section. This bolt WILL NOT go through with the upper section on the block, then take the other washer, and feed it through, thread the nut on as far as you can get it by hand, and then tighten with 2 22mm wrenches. Reinstall the cosmetic shield, the guard stud, and if removed, the phillips screws for the upper wheel sheild. Install new blade, set intitial tension on the blade, and set the the wheel / blade runout so that the blade tracks in the middle of both wheels. Install rear blade guard, and reinstall upper, and lower wheel guards.

    Install the new guide post, original guide post shield, upper front blade guard, and upper blade guide, install the dust collection hose if used, throat plate, table pin, and finally, set the blade guide to the correct depth and width according to either Harbor Freight's instructions (lousy) or the How to tune your bandsaw video on the Wood Magazine website.

    A closeup of the rear blade guard, and block assembled onto the saw...


    A closeup of the upper blade guard and guide post assembled onto the saw...


    And finally, a full view of the assembled saw...


    Now, assuming I wrote this up right, and you followed it right, you should now have your riser block succesfully installed, and the saw tuned up ready to go... Mind you, I did this solo, while the instructions say to have a helper. I am pretty good at juggling two things at once.. A helper might be nice if you can't hold half a saw, feed a bolt, feed a washer and start a nut all at the same time...

    Now all I am waiting on is delivery of my roller guides, and Timberwolf blades, and I need to try to pick up the fence this weekend... WOO HOO it is coming along... Need to build that resawing jig soon!
    Last edited by dbhost; 08-23-2008 at 12:09 AM. Reason: My wife rushed my original post... I wanted an install howto write up.
    My personal workshop blog is http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com. My camping / hunting / outdoor blog is http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com/

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    That makes me want to order mine now, and I don't have that bandsaw. But I do plan on getting a HF BS when I return to the States in a couple of years.

    Great pictures!
    Hank Lee

    Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    I have updated the original thread to put what I originally wanted to put, which was a howto writeup as well..

    This setup came together really fast...

    As far as I can tell from the little use I have put mine through, this seems like a very sturdy, well made saw, that is just lacking some of the higher dollar features such as a tension quick release like the Delta, or the roller guides like the Grizzly... Some quick bargain shopping can result in having a great saw, for a lot less money once shipping is factored in...
    Last edited by dbhost; 08-23-2008 at 12:12 AM.
    My personal workshop blog is http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com. My camping / hunting / outdoor blog is http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com/

  4. #4
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    cool! i am glad to see that you are happy with stuff.

    i like the a/c unit idea at the bottom of the garage door. how well does it work? give some temperature examples if possible.

    thanks,
    _________________________
    omar

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Kalispell, MT, USA.
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    Excellent write-up on the riser block installation.

    Quote Originally Posted by dbhost View Post
    .... well made saw, that is just lacking some of the higher dollar features such as a tension quick release like the Delta, .....
    A few of us went through this a while back. Tension Release setup can be ordered from Grizzly (use the G0555 parts manual for related parts) for about $25 plus a couple bucks for shipping. A search should turn up a parts list and I believe Popeye did a write up on the mod to his HF bandsaw.

    Here is the thread.
    http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...tension&page=2
    Last edited by Stan; 08-23-2008 at 10:51 AM.
    From the NW corner of Montana.
    http://www.elksigndesigns.com

  6. #6
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    Stan,

    I have a thread for that discussion going already in the Shop Setup and Layout forum. http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=40230

    But to summarize. It takes a while to cool down. And the doors need better insulation. Not exactly an ideal sitaution, but not horrid either...

    With 104 degree outside temps, it got the inside of the shop down to the mid to lower 80s, still warm, but not too hot to keep me out of my shop...

    I am thinking of redoing the wall idea, so that I have something that will go in place with the door completely up, and seal against the sides...

    Hey, do you have photos of how that lever goes in or works?
    My personal workshop blog is http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com. My camping / hunting / outdoor blog is http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com/

  7. #7
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    Chandler (Phx), AZ
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    thanks for the link, i must have missed that thread.
    _________________________
    omar

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Kalispell, MT, USA.
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbhost View Post
    Stan,

    I have a thread for that discussion going already in the Shop Setup and Layout forum. http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=40230
    Think that info was for omar.

    Quote Originally Posted by dbhost View Post
    Hey, do you have photos of how that lever goes in or works?
    Guess the thread for Pat's pictures got broken when I moved to a new server... (My bad)

    Here is a proper link to his gallery of pictures for the tension lever upgrade on his HF bandsaw.

    http://bt3gallery.cpu-etc.com/main.php?g2_itemId=1685

    Hope that helps.
    From the NW corner of Montana.
    http://www.elksigndesigns.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Yeah, the domain name had changed or something...

    And yeah, the link I gave to my other thread was for Omar...
    My personal workshop blog is http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com. My camping / hunting / outdoor blog is http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com/

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Florida.
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    Quote Originally Posted by leehljp View Post
    That makes me want to order mine now, and I don't have that bandsaw. But I do plan on getting a HF BS when I return to the States in a couple of years.

    Great pictures!
    You can see more pictures of that BS if you search this site under Central Machinery model 32208 4 speed 14" band saw. I added there some pictures of pieces I added to make it stronger (you do not need to, but it helps with any possible vibration), and you can see there also a jig i did for that BS to cut circles as butter.

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