Workbench plan/build thread

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  • Cochese
    Veteran Member
    • Jun 2010
    • 1988

    Workbench plan/build thread

    I'm going to be documenting most of the planning and building of the bench on my site, but I'll need some interaction - more than I get there. I'm going to try not to duplicate too much.

    I had thought for awhile that I was going to build a Holtzapffel. In fact, I have it front in center in my Sketchup 2D renders:
    (click for larger)
    Then I started reading. I borrowed the Schwarz's 2007 workbench book and have it read most of the way through. I borrowed and read Scott Landis's book. While neither told me (and I didn't expect them to) which bench I should build, they were so very helpful in letting me in on what I should be expecting to get out of a bench, what tasks I should be looking to accomplish, and what features would help me to attain both.

    I discovered that, with the arraignment I have, a twin-screw front vise in the left position would do me zero good. I've been considering all the things I'd like to be able to do on this bench. I want to be able to dovetail drawers and other taller, skinnier pieces. I want to be able to clamp a kitchen door on the surface for planing. I want to plane boards, long, short, any kind, any face or edge.

    I also have the old HF 9" vise (the decent one). If I could incorporate this into a design, that would obviously save me money. But I'm not strictly married to it, so to speak. And ultimately, my choice of bench placement unfortunately restricts some of the nicer accoutrements afforded to the high end benches.

    So, I've come to ask what you think I should do. I had a few ideas and wanted to run them past the community, obviously keeping in mind my space limitations. All of these assume a 'solid' laminated top, with flush legs and skirts for clamping.

    First design option: integrated shoulder
    This would be a long-term design option. The front of the bench would stick out close to where my miter saw resides, but that's not a huge deal when it comes to space. I would have to sit my sawhorses on the side, or move them somewhere else to gain access (they sit under that short shelf to the right of the miter). The fifth leg shouldn't interfere with anything else, except for perhaps storage of my long parallel clamps. The HF vise would then go on the end. I would most likely run three lines of dogs along the length, the center lined up with the integrated dog in the vise. One would also go in the wood jaw on either side. I'd also be using a sliding deadman in the front. When I ever get a bigger shop, I already have pretty much the bench I want.

    Disadvantages: The shoulder vise wouldn't give me that much room to dovetail, but I think that could be solved with a clamping sheet that would be secured by the shoulder and deadman, and would have hold down clamps running in T-tracks to secure the piece to the sheet. Then it becomes, where do I store that sheet, but it could be done. Actually, may already have a spot for it.

    Option two: shoulder jig
    Putting my HF vise back on the left hand side, but making a shoulder vise jig. You can see an example here: http://www.wkfinetools.com/tMaking/a...g/viseJig1.asp
    I'd have to come up with an alternate end vise, such as the Rockler or Veritas twin screw. I could then DT on the twin screw, as long as it fit between. I'd be able to put greater clamping force on two sets of dog holes with the twin screw.
    Disadvantages: More expensive. Twin screw eliminates primary need for shoulder vise, so why do it?

    Option three: twin end screw with HF front vise
    Slightly less expensive than option one. DTs are done on the end, where it should be easier. Room between the bench and the bandsaw would determine.

    Disadvantages: racking. Would have to create clamping blocks for face vise. Tall items (like new doors) would be difficult to work on. Would probably have to rearrange shop slightly, moving bandsaw and making it mobile, thus negating the cost savings.

    Option four: HF front vise and some sort of tail vise
    In the tail vise I would be able to clamp any tall board up to the width of my little gap between the cabinets and the bench to work on.

    Disadvantages: same as #3 in regard to tall items. The nicer vises (such as Benchcrafted) are rather spendy. Not as versitile when it comes to dogs. My least favorite option right now.

    That's what I'm looking at right now. I assume it will be stout, but I should be able to slide it away from the wall if needed temporarily. The construction will be of 2x12 SYP, put together with M&T. This is not going to be a knockdown bench. This is a bench I hope to get 5+ years out of at least. Hopefully it won't break my floor.
    I have a little blog about my shop
  • pelligrini
    Veteran Member
    • Apr 2007
    • 4217
    • Fort Worth, TX
    • Craftsman 21829

    #2
    One quick question, are you right or left handed? I'm right handed and I prefer to have my right hand on the tote when planing, and usually plane right to left on my bench.
    Erik

    Comment

    • Cochese
      Veteran Member
      • Jun 2010
      • 1988

      #3
      I am a righty.
      I have a little blog about my shop

      Comment

      • pelligrini
        Veteran Member
        • Apr 2007
        • 4217
        • Fort Worth, TX
        • Craftsman 21829

        #4
        Planing towards the wall might have some problems, especially with long pieces. You may have to pull the bench away from it when edge jointing longer boards.

        Take a look at a Moxon vice for dovetailing.

        I haven't had a chance to really read your post yet, I'm about to start a client meeting.
        Erik

        Comment

        • Cochese
          Veteran Member
          • Jun 2010
          • 1988

          #5
          After some thought, I decided to stick to the Holtzapffel design. My HF QR vise will man the end, and I'll spring for a Veritas Twin Screw when the budget allows, since it can be added on after the bench is complete.

          I'll be buying the material for at least the base tomorrow, if not the whole thing. It will honestly depend on if I can find enough good boards. I've got my measurements all figured out, and my cutlist all set. Two 2x12x10' boards will take care of the base, and it will take seven 2x12x14 or 16' boards for the top.

          The plan is to bring them back to the shop, and crosscut all the pieces down to near their final lengths and let them sit for several days, or until the moisture is stable. If I can remember, I'll take my meter with me to the store for a baseline.

          I'm excited. Can't wait to get started on this thing. Shop is about as clean as I can get it right now. The area outside of it? Well, I suppose that's another story, but that will get cleaned up as I get trash service.
          I have a little blog about my shop

          Comment

          • pelligrini
            Veteran Member
            • Apr 2007
            • 4217
            • Fort Worth, TX
            • Craftsman 21829

            #6
            When I did mine from SYP from the borg I found that the 16' 2x12s were straighter and clearer. It wasn't fun sorting through them though.

            You'll probably need more than several days for them to dry properly. Kiln dried 2x material from the store can still be pretty wet. I rushed mine and ended up with some gaps in the top due to the wood shrinking.
            Erik

            Comment

            • Cochese
              Veteran Member
              • Jun 2010
              • 1988

              #7


              And here...we...go.
              I have a little blog about my shop

              Comment

              • woodturner
                Veteran Member
                • Jun 2008
                • 2047
                • Western Pennsylvania
                • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

                #8
                Originally posted by CocheseUGA
                I had thought for awhile that I was going to build a Holtzapffel. In fact, I have it front in center in my Sketchup 2D renders:
                I looked at your drawing for a while, then decided you must have meant something else . Holzapffel was a prominent maker of ornamental turning lathes.

                Guess there must be benches call "Holzapffels" as well.
                --------------------------------------------------
                Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

                Comment

                • Cochese
                  Veteran Member
                  • Jun 2010
                  • 1988

                  #9
                  Originally posted by woodturner
                  I looked at your drawing for a while, then decided you must have meant something else . Holzapffel was a prominent maker of ornamental turning lathes.

                  Guess there must be benches call "Holzapffels" as well.
                  Same company, in fact. The bench was sold/marketed quite a while after the namesake died, but it's the same according to the Schwarz.
                  I have a little blog about my shop

                  Comment

                  • Cochese
                    Veteran Member
                    • Jun 2010
                    • 1988

                    #10
                    Measured the moisture today (inserted probes in fully on the accessible ends) and got readings from 11-16%. In an unconditioned shop, should I simply look for the boards to find a consistent moisture content no matter the number?
                    I have a little blog about my shop

                    Comment

                    • Cochese
                      Veteran Member
                      • Jun 2010
                      • 1988

                      #11
                      Also, should I be using the 'wood' or 'construction materials' setting?
                      I have a little blog about my shop

                      Comment

                      • pelligrini
                        Veteran Member
                        • Apr 2007
                        • 4217
                        • Fort Worth, TX
                        • Craftsman 21829

                        #12
                        Hopefully someone with some more knowledge will answer soon. I don't even have a moisture meter.

                        Do you have any old 2x material in your shop? I'd measure it, then compare those readings to the new material. The old stuff will give you a baseline of what you need to get close to.
                        Erik

                        Comment

                        • Cochese
                          Veteran Member
                          • Jun 2010
                          • 1988

                          #13
                          The 2x4 material I have is pretty consistent low 13%. I guess that's what I'm aiming for.

                          Interesting though some boards that are already lower than this are still going down. A couple of boards I think are ready for use. I may tune up my machines this afternoon and give one board a go. I can get a full leg from one board, so it's a good gamble.
                          I have a little blog about my shop

                          Comment

                          • Cochese
                            Veteran Member
                            • Jun 2010
                            • 1988

                            #14
                            One week down, I'm thinking two weeks to go. I've got the leg assemblies ready to be trimmed to final length, and the stretchers are right at finished length and in glue-up. By Monday I'll be ready to start on the joints.

                            Pics and detail on my site.
                            I have a little blog about my shop

                            Comment

                            • Cochese
                              Veteran Member
                              • Jun 2010
                              • 1988

                              #15
                              I've moved on to putting the top together since my last post, and I'm in trouble.

                              I'm not sure if it's my technique, or the fact that it's rained pretty much every day for the past 10 days, but my boards are doing their best to make themselves unusable. I have a couple that have a few inches of deflection in them along an axis. I took four boards that I thought were ready to go, and in the glue-up process noticed about an inch curve at the end of the board. That set I'll probably be able to salvage, but at what cost to the thickness of my top I'm not yet sure.

                              This whole project may be a loss at this point. I'll keep working on it for a few more days, but if they fold up any more on themselves I'm going to start looking for Kosher salt and mustard.
                              I have a little blog about my shop

                              Comment

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