I'm going to be documenting most of the planning and building of the bench on my site, but I'll need some interaction - more than I get there. I'm going to try not to duplicate too much.
I had thought for awhile that I was going to build a Holtzapffel. In fact, I have it front in center in my Sketchup 2D renders:
(click for larger)
Then I started reading. I borrowed the Schwarz's 2007 workbench book and have it read most of the way through. I borrowed and read Scott Landis's book. While neither told me (and I didn't expect them to) which bench I should build, they were so very helpful in letting me in on what I should be expecting to get out of a bench, what tasks I should be looking to accomplish, and what features would help me to attain both.
I discovered that, with the arraignment I have, a twin-screw front vise in the left position would do me zero good. I've been considering all the things I'd like to be able to do on this bench. I want to be able to dovetail drawers and other taller, skinnier pieces. I want to be able to clamp a kitchen door on the surface for planing. I want to plane boards, long, short, any kind, any face or edge.
I also have the old HF 9" vise (the decent one). If I could incorporate this into a design, that would obviously save me money. But I'm not strictly married to it, so to speak. And ultimately, my choice of bench placement unfortunately restricts some of the nicer accoutrements afforded to the high end benches.
So, I've come to ask what you think I should do. I had a few ideas and wanted to run them past the community, obviously keeping in mind my space limitations. All of these assume a 'solid' laminated top, with flush legs and skirts for clamping.
First design option: integrated shoulder
This would be a long-term design option. The front of the bench would stick out close to where my miter saw resides, but that's not a huge deal when it comes to space. I would have to sit my sawhorses on the side, or move them somewhere else to gain access (they sit under that short shelf to the right of the miter). The fifth leg shouldn't interfere with anything else, except for perhaps storage of my long parallel clamps. The HF vise would then go on the end. I would most likely run three lines of dogs along the length, the center lined up with the integrated dog in the vise. One would also go in the wood jaw on either side. I'd also be using a sliding deadman in the front. When I ever get a bigger shop, I already have pretty much the bench I want.
Disadvantages: The shoulder vise wouldn't give me that much room to dovetail, but I think that could be solved with a clamping sheet that would be secured by the shoulder and deadman, and would have hold down clamps running in T-tracks to secure the piece to the sheet. Then it becomes, where do I store that sheet, but it could be done. Actually, may already have a spot for it.
Option two: shoulder jig
Putting my HF vise back on the left hand side, but making a shoulder vise jig. You can see an example here: http://www.wkfinetools.com/tMaking/a...g/viseJig1.asp
I'd have to come up with an alternate end vise, such as the Rockler or Veritas twin screw. I could then DT on the twin screw, as long as it fit between. I'd be able to put greater clamping force on two sets of dog holes with the twin screw.
Disadvantages: More expensive. Twin screw eliminates primary need for shoulder vise, so why do it?
Option three: twin end screw with HF front vise
Slightly less expensive than option one. DTs are done on the end, where it should be easier. Room between the bench and the bandsaw would determine.
Disadvantages: racking. Would have to create clamping blocks for face vise. Tall items (like new doors) would be difficult to work on. Would probably have to rearrange shop slightly, moving bandsaw and making it mobile, thus negating the cost savings.
Option four: HF front vise and some sort of tail vise
In the tail vise I would be able to clamp any tall board up to the width of my little gap between the cabinets and the bench to work on.
Disadvantages: same as #3 in regard to tall items. The nicer vises (such as Benchcrafted) are rather spendy. Not as versitile when it comes to dogs. My least favorite option right now.
That's what I'm looking at right now. I assume it will be stout, but I should be able to slide it away from the wall if needed temporarily. The construction will be of 2x12 SYP, put together with M&T. This is not going to be a knockdown bench. This is a bench I hope to get 5+ years out of at least. Hopefully it won't break my floor.
I had thought for awhile that I was going to build a Holtzapffel. In fact, I have it front in center in my Sketchup 2D renders:
(click for larger)
Then I started reading. I borrowed the Schwarz's 2007 workbench book and have it read most of the way through. I borrowed and read Scott Landis's book. While neither told me (and I didn't expect them to) which bench I should build, they were so very helpful in letting me in on what I should be expecting to get out of a bench, what tasks I should be looking to accomplish, and what features would help me to attain both.
I discovered that, with the arraignment I have, a twin-screw front vise in the left position would do me zero good. I've been considering all the things I'd like to be able to do on this bench. I want to be able to dovetail drawers and other taller, skinnier pieces. I want to be able to clamp a kitchen door on the surface for planing. I want to plane boards, long, short, any kind, any face or edge.
I also have the old HF 9" vise (the decent one). If I could incorporate this into a design, that would obviously save me money. But I'm not strictly married to it, so to speak. And ultimately, my choice of bench placement unfortunately restricts some of the nicer accoutrements afforded to the high end benches.
So, I've come to ask what you think I should do. I had a few ideas and wanted to run them past the community, obviously keeping in mind my space limitations. All of these assume a 'solid' laminated top, with flush legs and skirts for clamping.
First design option: integrated shoulder
This would be a long-term design option. The front of the bench would stick out close to where my miter saw resides, but that's not a huge deal when it comes to space. I would have to sit my sawhorses on the side, or move them somewhere else to gain access (they sit under that short shelf to the right of the miter). The fifth leg shouldn't interfere with anything else, except for perhaps storage of my long parallel clamps. The HF vise would then go on the end. I would most likely run three lines of dogs along the length, the center lined up with the integrated dog in the vise. One would also go in the wood jaw on either side. I'd also be using a sliding deadman in the front. When I ever get a bigger shop, I already have pretty much the bench I want.
Disadvantages: The shoulder vise wouldn't give me that much room to dovetail, but I think that could be solved with a clamping sheet that would be secured by the shoulder and deadman, and would have hold down clamps running in T-tracks to secure the piece to the sheet. Then it becomes, where do I store that sheet, but it could be done. Actually, may already have a spot for it.
Option two: shoulder jig
Putting my HF vise back on the left hand side, but making a shoulder vise jig. You can see an example here: http://www.wkfinetools.com/tMaking/a...g/viseJig1.asp
I'd have to come up with an alternate end vise, such as the Rockler or Veritas twin screw. I could then DT on the twin screw, as long as it fit between. I'd be able to put greater clamping force on two sets of dog holes with the twin screw.
Disadvantages: More expensive. Twin screw eliminates primary need for shoulder vise, so why do it?
Option three: twin end screw with HF front vise
Slightly less expensive than option one. DTs are done on the end, where it should be easier. Room between the bench and the bandsaw would determine.
Disadvantages: racking. Would have to create clamping blocks for face vise. Tall items (like new doors) would be difficult to work on. Would probably have to rearrange shop slightly, moving bandsaw and making it mobile, thus negating the cost savings.
Option four: HF front vise and some sort of tail vise
In the tail vise I would be able to clamp any tall board up to the width of my little gap between the cabinets and the bench to work on.
Disadvantages: same as #3 in regard to tall items. The nicer vises (such as Benchcrafted) are rather spendy. Not as versitile when it comes to dogs. My least favorite option right now.
That's what I'm looking at right now. I assume it will be stout, but I should be able to slide it away from the wall if needed temporarily. The construction will be of 2x12 SYP, put together with M&T. This is not going to be a knockdown bench. This is a bench I hope to get 5+ years out of at least. Hopefully it won't break my floor.
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