Getting better rips

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  • Cochese
    Veteran Member
    • Jun 2010
    • 1988

    Getting better rips

    I'm working on a project for a client and I need to address a long-standing problem in my shop: 'curved' rips. The problem isn't quite as prevalent with sheet goods as it is hardwoods, but in some respects it is still there. Could be my technique, could be the tools.

    When ripping, then checking for flatness along the cut, the thickness of what I'm aiming for isn't consistent. In hardwoods there are a bunch of kerf marks along the keeper piece. The front of the piece is held tightly against the fence, but the back comes off a noticeable amount. I use two push sticks: one a rip stick at the fence, feeding the piece through. The other a push stick right before the blade, pushing the piece against the fence.

    I don't feel like wasting a ton of this cedar through the jointer, so I need to step things up. Since it seems a lot of the problem may be the back end of the cut moving away from the fence, I considered Board Mates from Peachtree. $40, but I am unsure of how compatible they are with our fence. I have tested fence alignment with known good boards, so if misalignment is an issue it should be a minor one. If my Irwin 24T blade isn't good enough I might invest in a Freud 30T Glue Line.

    The other option I have is the TS55. I have a 75" rail which wouldn't be quite enough to do the 6' board lengths I need, but I could re-position the rail to do the last couple of inches. I would just need a rip blade, so I'm making a purchase either way.

    Using the Festool means I have to set each cut up each time or make a jig, but it would probably be the better investment. I've been kicking around the idea of selling my table saw, but dado cuts and convenience have held me back.
    I have a little blog about my shop
  • LCHIEN
    Internet Fact Checker
    • Dec 2002
    • 20913
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #2
    well you need to define the problem a little better.
    No. 1 what saw are you using?
    No. 2 what do you mean by curved?
    is the edge against the fence straight and flat? How did you confirm this?
    If the answer is yes then is the piece varying in width? what is the width at the beginning feed end and in the middle and at the end. and specify how you are measuring (I would use digital calipers).
    That will tell us if its curved or wedged or within expectations.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

    Comment

    • leehljp
      Just me
      • Dec 2002
      • 8429
      • Tunica, MS
      • BT3000/3100

      #3
      1. Inconsistency - in this case it could be the boards are not true to begin with. If you have a long straight edge, check each board before ripping.

      2. I personally had and have a natural tendency to push/feed a board at little too hard against the fence at the beginning and through the mid-way point which results in what you are having a problem with. Knowing this, I have to conciously watch my hand pressures with long rips. There are some cuts I can do almost by instinct, but this is not one.

      3. Some boards that bow upon ripping (stress release)?
      Hank Lee

      Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

      Comment

      • Knottscott
        Veteran Member
        • Dec 2004
        • 3815
        • Rochester, NY.
        • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

        #4
        If the boards aren't flat, a better rip blade isn't going to solve much.
        Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

        Comment

        • jking
          Senior Member
          • May 2003
          • 972
          • Des Moines, IA.
          • BT3100

          #5
          Good questions above to be answered. Assuming the board has a straight edge going up against the fence, one suggestion would be to use a feather board(s) to hold the material against the fence when ripping. I've done it with and without & found I get consistently better rips when using the featherboard.

          Comment

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