Lathe stand

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  • Cochese
    Veteran Member
    • Jun 2010
    • 1988

    #16
    Lag bolts. Unfortunately I did not predrill with the lathe off the mounting points, and it got ugly when I tried to predrill the mounting points around the motor. I broke two bolts and a drill bit, and thus only the right side is really secured.

    I have one more spot where I can use a standard bolt and nut configuration if I feel I need it, but it's probably not going anywhere.
    I have a little blog about my shop

    Comment

    • dbhost
      Slow and steady
      • Apr 2008
      • 9209
      • League City, Texas
      • Ryobi BT3100

      #17
      Gotcha...

      For what it's worth. My evening tonight is likely going to be spent cleaning the shop if LOML doesn't have plans for me. She might actually help! (A bunch of her junk ended up in the shop and has GOT to go...)

      I have some siding repairs to do, and vehicle maintenance, once done with those, I have some well seasoned pine 2x4s (3 years in my shop now, all but one dead straight, the one that warped, boy did it ever warp, end to end about 45 degrees... Sounds like firewood for the beach to me...
      Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

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      • LinuxRandal
        Veteran Member
        • Feb 2005
        • 4889
        • Independence, MO, USA.
        • bt3100

        #18
        Originally posted by Cochese
        The plan was to do this:


        The current product is this:

        Was this by plan, or something you came up with? Looks quite useful for the lathe, but not so much for the grinders (why I am wondering if there is a plan, that has other aspects).
        She couldn't tell the difference between the escape pod, and the bathroom. We had to go back for her.........................Twice.

        Comment

        • Cochese
          Veteran Member
          • Jun 2010
          • 1988

          #19
          Just storage for now.
          I have a little blog about my shop

          Comment

          • poolhound
            Veteran Member
            • Mar 2006
            • 3195
            • Phoenix, AZ
            • BT3100

            #20
            I am just about to build a stand for my Nova Comet II. How has this design worked out for you and did you get around to putting in the drawers? Any pics?

            What opinions and experience on lathe height does the 'collective have? I have read a lot of folks saying that center of the stock should be at elbow height. would you all concur? I am also pondering the ballast question and whether the mass of the stand itself will be enough for my small lathe or if I should design in some space for sand or similar like this one that Cochese has built.

            Not sure right now whetehr to size for its midi length or add room for a possible future bed extension. I dont really foresee any spindle work but mounting my new rikon slow speed grinder to the same base seems like a good idea, yes - no?

            As usual all advice welcome and appreciated.
            Jon

            Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
            ________________________________

            We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them
            techzibits.com

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            • woodturner
              Veteran Member
              • Jun 2008
              • 2047
              • Western Pennsylvania
              • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

              #21
              Originally posted by poolhound
              What opinions and experience on lathe height does the 'collective have? I have read a lot of folks saying that center of the stock should be at elbow height. would you all concur? I am also pondering the ballast question and whether the mass of the stand itself will be enough for my small lathe or if I should design in some space for sand or similar like this one that Cochese has built.
              That's the problem with rules of thumb - they are averages or approximations. I would take a lathe chisel, "assume the stance" (hold the tool at a comfortable level and position, like you were turning), then have someone measure the height from the floor to the tip of the tool. I would build the stand so the lathe center line is 1/2" or so less than that.

              Regarding ballast, if you are going to turn green wood bowls and out of round work, conventional wisdom is that more weight is better. Can be sand bags, water bottles, anything to add weight, with a preference for materials that can move a little to absorb vibration, such as sand or water. For spindle turning centered stock (i.e. no off-center or elliptical work) usually the stand provides more than enough stability and no aditional ballast is needed.
              --------------------------------------------------
              Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

              Comment

              • Pappy
                The Full Monte
                • Dec 2002
                • 10453
                • San Marcos, TX, USA.
                • BT3000 (x2)

                #22
                I have to build a new stand for a Jet Mini with the extension bed. Wish I could go with the ballast/sand box on the bottom but the wife has to be able to sit at it so the bottom has to be fairly open. The only thing she will be turning is pens, bottle stoppers and other small items so I don't think it will be a problem. May try to incorporate a smaller, vertical box as a stringer across the back legs.
                Don, aka Pappy,

                Wise men talk because they have something to say,
                Fools because they have to say something.
                Plato

                Comment

                • dbhost
                  Slow and steady
                  • Apr 2008
                  • 9209
                  • League City, Texas
                  • Ryobi BT3100

                  #23
                  Pappy, how about enclosing the space between the legs on the sides to hold ballast?
                  Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

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                  • Cochese
                    Veteran Member
                    • Jun 2010
                    • 1988

                    #24
                    Sure, I can give an update.

                    As I mentioned before, i did enclose that well at the bottom and fill it with about 100# of sand. That was a good idea, as it made the entire stand much more balanced. I could easily still tip the whole thing over if I decided to, so I can't imagine what it would be like without the sand. Because of how often I move things around, some of the sand has come out of the bottom. Moving, and the fact I used no mechanical fasteners between the legs and the stretchers. Because the legs slightly moved, the caulk that sealed everything up came away from where it should. Thus, a small bit of sand has been lost to time, as evidenced by the trails I get whenever I move it. Hopefully though it is in it's last spot. The idea is sound, though, and I'd recommend doing a sand ballast. Perhaps design the cavity where it could stay in the original bags, though. And use some good screws to keep it together and stand up to the rigors of moving.

                    The drawer was a good idea, but it ultimately hasn't worked very well for me. A few reasons why:

                    1) the design is similar to this one (link) in that it has no bottom. It racks way too easily, something that was probably helped in that link there with some corner braces. Thing is though, the drawer not having a bottom is completely pointless. We might all think to ourselves that the shavings and such will fall right through, but if you are changing out chisels, you aren't making shavings. A bottom, or at least a partial bottom, would have greatly helped with drawer racking.

                    2) A full width drawer is completely impractical for my space. I always have something either resting up against the lathe, or in my current layout I actually have the bandsaw and drill press partially in front of it at either end. Right now, I can't open the drawer fully because it hits the back of the BS.

                    3) Drawers impact storage height on that shelf.

                    4) #2 and #3 meant I didn't bother making a drawer for the accessories, so up until recently the chuck and wrenches were scattered about.

                    I think if I had to do it all over again (which I'm not) or modify it (which I am), I'd do this: drill a series of holes behind the lathe bed so that the chisels store vertically. Or store them somewhere on the wall in the same manner. I'd make a narrow set of drawers that went from shelf to top either on one side or the middle. Just big enough to store wrenches, chucks, whatever you needed. Make it so that you could remove it or move it to a side, simply, perhaps by removing a screw or two. It doesn't need much, just enough to keep it from moving around or dumping the drawers on your toes. Perhaps you could put your sanding rolls in there as well. In fact, that strikes me as a really good idea. As long as the set of drawers isn't deep enough to interfere with the chisel storage, you shouldn't have a problem.
                    I have a little blog about my shop

                    Comment

                    • poolhound
                      Veteran Member
                      • Mar 2006
                      • 3195
                      • Phoenix, AZ
                      • BT3100

                      #25
                      Thanks for the update. I was all set to make a 'quality' stand but given the input here and there being so many variable yet to resolve I am going top make a very basic 2x4 construction. This way I can get something really quick and can see how I feel about the size, height footprint and storage. With some months (probably longer) under my belt using this I should have lots of input to then make a more permanent solution.
                      Jon

                      Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
                      ________________________________

                      We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them
                      techzibits.com

                      Comment

                      • dbhost
                        Slow and steady
                        • Apr 2008
                        • 9209
                        • League City, Texas
                        • Ryobi BT3100

                        #26
                        So let's get this straight for a guy that has yet to do this project...
                        #1. Sand taken out of the bag can and will leak caused by wood movement as the stand and lathe are moved. So maybe a mobile base would be in order? Keeping the sand in the bag would help as well. So sizing the enclosed compartment in the base to fit full bags of sand would be a good idea maybe?
                        #2. Put the ballast compartment down low enough that other tools stored on the shelf it makes will still have room if I add a drawer. Only tool likely to go in that spot would be my grinder / sharpening jig, so I would run into the same issue you did.
                        #3. Use this as an opportunity to build a stand tall enough for me to comfortably work at. I have found the factory stand from my lathe is a bit low for my comfort.
                        #4. Make sure the 2x4s used to make the top are fully s4s before gluing them up.
                        #5. Since SYP 4x4s are impossible to find near me, more 2x4 lams for the legs. I can either mortise and tenon to the top, or use 2 large through dowels as I tend to really like that style of joinery for some reason...

                        Yeah, like I don't already have too much to do before they haul me off to the giggling academy...
                        Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

                        Comment

                        • Cochese
                          Veteran Member
                          • Jun 2010
                          • 1988

                          #27
                          Originally posted by dbhost
                          So let's get this straight for a guy that has yet to do this project...
                          #1. Sand taken out of the bag can and will leak caused by wood movement as the stand and lathe are moved. So maybe a mobile base would be in order? Keeping the sand in the bag would help as well. So sizing the enclosed compartment in the base to fit full bags of sand would be a good idea maybe?
                          The legs coming slightly apart from the stretchers is completely my fault. If I had gone belt and suspenders with a screw or two in addition to the Dominos, it wouldn't have leaked at all. But yes, keeping the sand in the bag would be optimal. Even if I did furniture movers when I moved it, I would have come out better.

                          #2. Put the ballast compartment down low enough that other tools stored on the shelf it makes will still have room if I add a drawer. Only tool likely to go in that spot would be my grinder / sharpening jig, so I would run into the same issue you did.
                          There is enough room there for the grinder(s), however that's also where I keep my metal tool chest, and I can't open the lid with the current clearance.

                          #3. Use this as an opportunity to build a stand tall enough for me to comfortably work at. I have found the factory stand from my lathe is a bit low for my comfort.
                          Yup, going to be completely user preference. The stand for me was at a decent height, so I used that as a benchmark. I think I ended up about an inch higher. Elbows at the spindle is a good starting point.

                          #4. Make sure the 2x4s used to make the top are fully s4s before gluing them up.
                          Yes, per usual. I kept the slightest bit of bevel on the 2x4s I used for the top purely out of convenience, and it's a great visual. Not enough of a vee to be a nusiance when getting it clean.

                          #5. Since SYP 4x4s are impossible to find near me, more 2x4 lams for the legs. I can either mortise and tenon to the top, or use 2 large through dowels as I tend to really like that style of joinery for some reason...
                          I'd steer you toward a traditional M&T over the dowels, just on a hunch. Perhaps a combo. Or drawbore dowels from the sides. I laminated the 2x4s for the legs and then cut off the top portion of one of them to make my tenon. Many different ways to arrive there. I'd also save yourself time my doing a trench cut dado on one of the boards for your top lamination before you glue it together. Instant mortise when you glue it together. Slight bit of planning on how wide and long your base is in proportion to your top and it will be a breeze. Size your lower stretchers to fit.

                          Jon, I'd do the basic design of this all over again. It's super. I'd just make different storage and double-secure the ballast compartment.
                          I have a little blog about my shop

                          Comment

                          • dbhost
                            Slow and steady
                            • Apr 2008
                            • 9209
                            • League City, Texas
                            • Ryobi BT3100

                            #28
                            Elbows at the spindle is a good starting point.
                            That to me means 3" higher than where it is now. So it works out!

                            to get M&T on something as big as a laminated top like that, I would pretty much have to route out the mortises. Not impossible, but not something i Have done yet. Just need to figure out if I should square the mortise, or round off the tenons.

                            On the stretchers, did you so a simple M&T with them? I think a pinned M&T might be a bit less likely to move, but I could be wrong...
                            Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

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                            • Cochese
                              Veteran Member
                              • Jun 2010
                              • 1988

                              #29
                              Originally posted by dbhost
                              That to me means 3" higher than where it is now. So it works out!

                              to get M&T on something as big as a laminated top like that, I would pretty much have to route out the mortises. Not impossible, but not something i Have done yet. Just need to figure out if I should square the mortise, or round off the tenons.

                              On the stretchers, did you so a simple M&T with them? I think a pinned M&T might be a bit less likely to move, but I could be wrong...
                              I'm saying make the mortise before you laminate the top. Take your 2x4, trench it out with a dado stack or miter saw with a depth stop. Like this. When you laminate the top together, you form the other two walls of the mortise with your neighbor boards. If you orient your legs in the same length/width orientation as the boards, making one leg longer than the other, you have an M&T joint with very little work. Just finesse either the tenon or mortise to fit perfectly. No router needed, unless you can't make a dado cut any other way.

                              For the stretchers, I used a double Domino (loose tenon) joint. I either needed a better glue bond, or a mechanical fastener.
                              I have a little blog about my shop

                              Comment

                              • poolhound
                                Veteran Member
                                • Mar 2006
                                • 3195
                                • Phoenix, AZ
                                • BT3100

                                #30
                                Just finished building my basic lathe stand. Essentially some trued up 2x4s with 2x8s used for the top, trimmed up with some scrap 3/4 boards to help eliminate any potential sag. I will turn the area of the stretchers into a shelf and then think about tools storage.

                                Here is a couple of pics one with the lathe so you can get an idea of scale. I still need to give it a few coats of finish but otherwise I am pretty happy.

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                                Jon

                                Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
                                ________________________________

                                We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them
                                techzibits.com

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