Need help choosing a track saw

[atgcpaul]

The looming install of my wood kitchen counters has got me seriously considering thinking about buying a track saw. Other projects I have in mind have me thinking a track saw would be useful, too. My top 2 choices are the smaller Festool or the Dewalt. I considered the Grizzly (and clones) on the lower end but seems like too much fiddling to get them right. I'm leaning towards the Dewalt because it has more power and I like that I can cut on my both sides of the track. I don't like that it doesn't have a positive stop at 45deg, but I don't see too many of those in my future. It's also less expensive.

I am about to receive delivery of the Domino, but I don't see myself as a "system" person.

Any other input?

Thanks,
Paul

[twistsol]

I tried them both because the reviews are are comparable. I ended up with the Festool TS75 because it basically felt better when cutting left handed, the cut depth adjustment was easier, and the TS75 has the greatest depth of cut of any track saw. They had them both at 7 Corners hardware in saint paul which is sadly now gone.

You won't go wrong with either one, but if possible try them both before you buy.

[jussi]

Festool also has the parallel guides which make repeatable cuts much faster. Or better yet go with one of the aftermarket guides. There are several guys who make then, most of them on fog. You could also ask if they make a version that will fit dealt tracks. I made some shop cabinets a while back and it totally sped up the process and made it more accurate because I didn't have to rely on pencil marks.

I would also look at the mft or if you have the time, build one.

[jussi]

I have both the 75 and 55 and use the 55 most of the time because of the weight. But the 75 is great when ripping thick stock.

[Condoman44]

I have the Makita and love it. It has the two 55" rails joined with 2 of the the Festool connectors. I found I like the one handed DeWalt clamps better than the others. The saw is now 5 years old and has cut lots of plywood and doors.

The only big improvement was using a cutting table instead of catching large parts before they fall to the ground.

[atgcpaul]

How simple is lining up any of these saws for an accurate plunge cut? Are there marks on the saw base plate where you line up for the start and stop of a cut or is it more trial and error?

[Neal]

I have neither, rather the Grizzly model. Other than buying a blade (Oshlun) I haven't really had to do anything to it to get it right. I don't do a lot of bevel cuts, so the 45 degree thing is not huge. I can't add a whole lot to the discussion other than these comments.

1. You say you aren't a system guy, but if you have enough of the green things in your arsenal, you will appreciate the system part of it, A LOT. I don't do this for a living where efficiency is paramount, but the more I use it the more I see how workflow and process is incorporated into their systems. I'm becoming a green koolaid drinker very quickly.

2. Think about the future. And this ties into the system stuff, but the track guides for the Festool router running on the Festool track are pretty daggone nice. (If you do get the Festool saw, have your dealer swap out the holey rail). Does Dewalt have the same type of compatibility with routers and such.

3. How often do you break down sheet goods or make wide cross cuts your table saw won't easily handle? Maybe the Festool is too much money. Shoot maybe the Dewalt is too much money. IT might make the Grizzly look more attractive.

4. A little backyard engineering can create parallel guides with a few simple components. I've seen some pretty basic parallel guides which don't attach themselves to the festool tracks, just butt up against the tracks. Clamp the rail down and go. Even the aftermarket ones are a little pricey for what can be done with a little time and a few pieces of scrap and a few other components (incra T-track plus).

I don't regret my Grizzly purchase, but the system side of things has me lusting very hard after a TS55. I probably won't consider the Makita or Dewalt if I replace my Griz.

[BadeMillsap]

I have the Grizzly and am very happy with both price and performance... Didn't do anything other than an olshun blade. No fiddling whatsoever.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[twistsol]

How simple is lining up any of these saws for an accurate plunge cut? Are there marks on the saw base plate where you line up for the start and stop of a cut or is it more trial and error?

The Festool has marks on the body that line up with the front and rear of the blade when fully plunged. I know the TS55REQ does anyway but I've never used the feature and never looked to see if it is on my TS75

[JimD]

One of the things I really like about my DeWalt is the depth scale is in fractional inches and reads dimension below the track. The Festool reads mm below the base of the saw. I hear they supply an inch scale now too but it didn't impress the one guy who commented on-line. The availability of parallel guides is an advantage for the Festool but you can make your own for the DeWalt for about $100. There is a guy who posts on Sawmill creek who came up with a design. I used mine last weekend making some bookshelves. DeWalt sells a router attachment for the DeWalt track that I have but haven't used. It is supposed to work well with my PC routers. I haven't used a Festool track saw but I am completely satisfied with my DeWalt. It was in storage for over a year because of a move but is now starting to get a workout. I've about worn out my first blade. I have the two track package from Amazon for about $600. The long track works fine for ripping 8 feet but you need to set the end where you end up almost flush with the end of the wood so you have enough track on the starting end to get squared up before you cut. If you do this, the track is long enough. The long track saves the joining two tracks and worrying about whether they are straight. I used this track last weekend to cut straight edges on some 8 foot 1x12s so I could glue them together. Much easier than using my short Inca jointer.

[atgcpaul]

The long track works fine for ripping 8 feet but you need to set the end where you end up almost flush with the end of the wood so you have enough track on the starting end to get squared up before you cut. If you do this, the track is long enough. The long track saves the joining two tracks and worrying about whether they are straight. I used this track last weekend to cut straight edges on some 8 foot 1x12s so I could glue them together. Much easier than using my short Inca jointer.

Jim, the Dewalt is already in my Amazon shopping cart. My last decision is whether to get the kit you described--long rail and short rail--or the other kit with short rail and buy an extra short rail and connector. Transporting/storing a 102" rail doesn't seem appealing to me, but neither does joining two short rails. Ripping long boards/sheets on my TS isn't a problem, but I use a TS jig to straighten boards since I don't have a jointer (yet). The long track would definitely make that easier!

[Kristofor]

One of the things I really like about my DeWalt is the depth scale is in fractional inches and reads dimension below the track. The Festool reads mm below the base of the saw. I hear they supply an inch scale now too but it didn't impress the one guy who commented on-line.

Not that it really matters, but the Festool scale does show both the depth of cut below the saw and below the track at the same time (two level indicator).

[JimD]

I my previous shop, in the basement of the former house, I had nearly 8'6" clearance and could hang the long track vertically. This house shop/garage is just over 8' tall so that option is out. When I made my conduit wood rack above the CMS & RAS I put the top shelf 6 inches off the ceiling. I put plumbing pipe and the long track up there. I need to use a drywall bucket or something to get up there but I don't use that track every day and it is fine. You definitely need to find a spot for it. I also made cases for both tracks out of luan and softwood scraps. The softwood spaces the luan apart and allows joining the 8 feet luan pieces together to make the case for the long track. In the case, the track could be treated like a board and placed in the back of a pickup or SUV. I've used it at home so far but am prepared if I want to travel with it. I've taken the saw and the shorter track away from home to trim a door, so far. On the other hand, shorter tracks are definitely more easily stored and moved. Everything I read says if your are careful and use a straightedge when you joint them it works fine. I like the design of the portable MFT over on the FOG that stores two shorter tracks. The idea of being able to roll up with a workbench and a couple tracks plus other tools all in one neat package is very attractive. I'll probably never make that workbench, however. I want something bigger in the shop.

[atgcpaul]

Jim, I received the Dewalt kit today. I haven't opened up the boxes yet but is there any reason why you didn't use the wooden case the long track is packed in? The one I got is skinned with 1/4" hardboard which is spaced with ~1/2" ply. It's all stapled together. I was thinking when I remove the staples, I could hinge one face and keep it closed with a bungee or some kind of clasp.

[JimD]

I used it for awhile but the hardboard isn't real durable and the staples started pulling through. If they'd glued it, it would hold up better (maybe yours is glued?). I also got some long luan scraps about that time and put something better together. But it certainly would work for now. And if it is either glued or you can glue it, it might work for a long time.