I am going to make a curved shelf and wonder if anyone has a idea how to build a jig to cut the curve, I tried cutting out a template with my scroll saw but couldn't get the curve prefect,like I could with my plunge router ,the shelves,will be made of oak 6x24x1 and the curve will go from 6 inches in the center to 0 at the ends, any suggestions? Shelves 6 inched deep and 24inches long, need to make 8 shelves
Curved shelf
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Make a template from some substrate, like MDF. Sand it to be smooth. Cut the pieces within a ¼" from the line of the template with a jig saw. Then double side tape or hot glue the template to the subject piece and use a flush trim router bit.
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If your problem is how to get a near perfect curve, draw out half the curve on the template. You can do this with marking the lengths and the rise, and use a thin piece of plywood, or Masonite and bend it to intersect the two points. Then cut it out as done in the above post. Place the template on the subject piece and draw the half, and then flip the template to draw the other half. Once you cut/rout the first one, you have a new template for a complete curve.
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I have also cut shelves with a plunge router. You can make a base plate with a long pivot attached and use a 1/4 inch bit to make the cut. Making the pattern this way and then using a flush trim bit as C'man suggests is more practical than cutting all the shelves this way.Comment
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+1. This probably how I'd do it.JRComment
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I don't have a router table ---- so here's how I cut curves:
a) find a bucket or can with an appropriate radius
I've used small stain cans --- all the way up to a 5 gallon HD bucket.
Haven't used a 50 gallon drum, yet. Might also try a french curve set
b) Using chalk (easier to erase mistakes) - trace curve
c) Assess curve for aesthetics.......
d) If I like it --- proceed --- if I don't -- erase and repeat
e) Cut along lines with 1/4" band saw blade (I use a skip tooth 4TPI)
I've tried cutting with a scroll saw ---- that option stinks. My blade doesn't like oak, much. I save my scroll saw for making signs with the router.
If I didn't have a band saw - I think a jig saw can do the job - with a steady hand. I think I'd want a belt sander to smooth the curve out, though.Comment
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I have done this a few times. I have an inexpensive 2-D CAD program called DeltaCad. You use the drawing plans to develop your curve and then there is an option to print it out full size. I even made arched top cabinet door profiles this way and large archways as room dividers (maybe 30' radius). Like said above use hardboard to make a template. Cut close on the BS and smooth with sanding. The cut the wood close on the BS and use a flush trim bit with bearing to finish.
MikeComment
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Forming a template from some ply or mdf scrap would be best. I would lay the template down and mark all the shelves and remove much of the waste with a jigsaw. Then I would fasten the template to my shelves with double sided tape, or my new pin nailer, and take it to the router table with a flush trim or pattern bit.
BTW, An arc segment with a 24" chord and a 6" width would have a radius of 1'-3" according to my AutocadLast edited by pelligrini; 07-17-2013, 05:05 PM.ErikComment
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Curved shelf
I made a template and used double sided tape taped and clamped it to the work piece 6x24x1 red oak, and tried to cut around the template with my plunge router using a 1/4 inch slot bit but it took a long time to cut through the 3/4 inch oak, is there a better router bit to use doing it this way?, I would prefer not to have to cut them out on my scroll saw, then use the routerComment
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I made a template and used double sided tape taped and clamped it to the work piece 6x24x1 red oak, and tried to cut around the template with my plunge router using a 1/4 inch slot bit but it took a long time to cut through the 3/4 inch oak, is there a better router bit to use doing it this way?, I would prefer not to have to cut them out on my scroll saw, then use the router
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Do you have a jigsaw or bandsaw? I've even done roughing cuts with my dubby sled and my tablesaw.ErikComment
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you gotta rough cut it to size, about 1/4" as suggested with a band saw or jig saw. Probably too laborious with a scrollsaw. then router it. otherwise it will be too much work ploughing out that much wood with the router.Loring in Katy, TX USA
If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questionsComment
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Depending on the size of the piece, and the curves, a bandsaw may not accommodate the piece. May not be enough room to the column to manipulate it.
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Back when my son rode freestyle BMX (specializing in "vert" ramps and ER visits!!), I got to see a lot of ramp building. The tool of choice for most of the best builders was a 7 1/4" circular saw. For a 7' or 8' radius, the mark was made with string and pencil, saw set to exact depth of cut, and i'd watch kids with baggy pants and dreadlocks cut the curve smooth as can be.
I think back on those days, and it sure seems like I could do the same thing now, but I outsmart myself with routers, bandsaws, jigsaw, and sander. What you're talking about is a shorter cut, but i'm guessing a 5' or 6' radius--i''m wondering if a 6" circular saw might get it close faster. Then the trim router or sander to finish?
I've not tried it, but I've seen it...
earlComment
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Yea, eyeballing a circular saw or using a sawboard and circular saw doing multiple cuts to rough it out.
A 1/4" straight bit in 3/4" oak probably wasn't the best choice either.ErikComment
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