Cheap Carbide 10" throw away Saw Blades

[TB Roye]

Next I will start with the installing the first 300 sq.ft. of Pergo Laminate flooring. Where can I get some inexpensive/cheap Carbide tipped Blades for my BT3 and Miter saw. My BIL told to get a bunch. Don't want to use the nice I have in may saws now. The BT# will be used for ripping and the Miter Saw for cross cuts. I will be laying about 1200 sqft. by the time I am done some time after the first of the year. LOML has put a red line down that nothing can be done from Nov. 1 until Jan 6 2014. Thats fine with me, I will need that break to rest my back and knees. The first 300 sq ft is my den and the hallway and maybe the Master Bedroom which would bring it up to 500+ sqft. I have this planned so that I can stop if the redline gets close of my body gives out. Once out of the Den it is a straight shot down the hall.

Tom

[LCHIEN]

might consider smaller diameter blades... like 7-1/4". Should be able to raise enough to cut flooring (should be able to cut ~2" depth) . THey can be had really cheap.

[sweensdv]

1200 sq. ft. of flooring to do,..... I don't think I'd want to have to worry about a cheapo blade making the job harder and possibly more expensive. Consider using this blade or something like it and having it sharpened between project phases.

[atgcpaul]

It's not like you need to rip or crosscut every single board. Most of the boards will be in the field and won't need any cutting. I also try to use the offcuts to start a new course elsewhere so for every course, you're making two cuts max. You'll be fine with a cheap blade--even a 7 1/4" one. Years ago I bought a 60 or 80 tooth count blade from HF for $20-$30. Cuts pretty good.

The first time I installed laminate flooring, I did 400sqft with just 2 jigsaw blades and a crappy jigsaw.

[chopnhack]

It's not like you need to rip or crosscut every single board. Most of the boards will be in the field and won't need any cutting. I also try to use the offcuts to start a new course elsewhere so for every course, you're making two cuts max. You'll be fine with a cheap blade--even a 7 1/4" one. Years ago I bought a 60 or 80 tooth count blade from HF for $20-$30. Cuts pretty good.

The first time I installed laminate flooring, I did 400sqft with just 2 jigsaw blades and a crappy jigsaw.

++

You will be surprised at how little cutting you will do. For $30 you can get a diablo 10" from the borg. I just picked up a 60 count 7.25" for breaking down sheet goods for $20.

[TB Roye]

Thanks guys. I laid a 100 sqft in the dinning room 12 years ago with my 18V Ryobi 7.25" miter saw and my 18V Circular Saw Even did the base boards in the dinning and living room to match the flooring. I didn't get the BT3 until I retired 10 years ago. The more tricky cuts I will have make will with my Bosh Saber saw or whatever they call it. The bad is I have 6 doorways to fit the flooring into, While I am at it I better get some blades for the saber saw.

Tom

[RAV2]

might consider smaller diameter blades... like 7-1/4". Should be able to raise enough to cut flooring (should be able to cut ~2" depth) . THey can be had really cheap.

I second this!

I purchased some great, thin, B&D Piranha blades for a skill saw that work great in my saw. The cut fast and clean and were less than $5 each.

Almost indestructible.

[Knottscott]

These aren't "great", but they're not bad, are a good deal, and should give you lots of mileage.

Bosch 10 pack

[capncarl]

Ive suggested in several previous posts concening saw blades the use of purchasing a saw blade sharpener. I am currently ripping 100's of lf of 100+ year old heart pine and rotate my blades after several hours of use. It takes longer to clean off the sap/tar build up than it does to touch up the blade with the sharpener. In less than 10 minutes the blade is ready to use again. No drastic cutting or angle change of the blade, just touch up the cutting face and it is like new. I have several Craftsman rip blades that have been re-sharpened dozens of times and still have plenty of carbide tip left. The HF sharpener has repaid its purchase price many times over. I do now re-sharpen my more expesive Freud blades as well. My only modification to the sharpener was throw away the blade holder bracket and install a sturdy wood holder.
capncarl

[Mr__Bill]

Thanks guys. I laid a 100 sqft in the dinning room 12 years ago with my 18V Ryobi 7.25" miter saw and my 18V Circular Saw Even did the base boards in the dinning and living room to match the flooring. I didn't get the BT3 until I retired 10 years ago. The more tricky cuts I will have make will with my Bosh Saber saw or whatever they call it. The bad is I have 6 doorways to fit the flooring into, While I am at it I better get some blades for the saber saw.

Tom

I used metal cutting down cut saber saw blades and it made cutting the tricky cuts easier as you can cut from the top. Masking tape prevents scuffing the surface with the sole of the saw.

I second cheep blades in the saw. I can destroy an expensive blade just as fast as the inexpensive one from HF when cutting laminate. The more expensive -- real wood -- laminates are kinder to the blade but the really inexpensive stuff is like cutting cement board. Remember too the dust mask! The sawdust from this stuff is a real killer.

For the doorways consider under cutting the trim and sliding the flooring under. They make a nice hand saw for this and if you use a thin spacer under the saw on the floor you get a perfect cut every time.

Bill
on the left coast

[TB Roye]

The under cut saw will be delivered Monday along with 400sqft of flooring and underlayment. Probably will start laying floor on Thursday. Need to finish paint the room this weekend and get carpet and tack strip up and need a few for the flooring aclimate so I will be going fishing on Tuesday for awhile, gotta rest up.m Still need to round up the saw blades

Tom

[chopnhack]

Ive suggested in several previous posts concening saw blades the use of purchasing a saw blade sharpener. I am currently ripping 100's of lf of 100+ year old heart pine and rotate my blades after several hours of use. It takes longer to clean off the sap/tar build up than it does to touch up the blade with the sharpener. In less than 10 minutes the blade is ready to use again. No drastic cutting or angle change of the blade, just touch up the cutting face and it is like new. I have several Craftsman rip blades that have been re-sharpened dozens of times and still have plenty of carbide tip left. The HF sharpener has repaid its purchase price many times over. I do now re-sharpen my more expesive Freud blades as well. My only modification to the sharpener was throw away the blade holder bracket and install a sturdy wood holder.
capncarl

Great setup capncarl! I am a little concerned about sharpening carbide. Some manufacturers state they have cobalt in them. Probably not a lot of exposure, but I would rather have some backup blades and just rotate through them.