changing out own car brakes

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  • Condoman44
    Established Member
    • Nov 2013
    • 178
    • CT near Norwich
    • Ryobi BT3000

    #16
    One more thing

    I recall the first time I changed pads I did not pay attention to the amount of fluid in the reservoir. As I compressed the piston fluid went over the top and made a mess. Fortunately I did not repeat that mistake on subsequent pads.

    Comment

    • JimD
      Veteran Member
      • Feb 2003
      • 4187
      • Lexington, SC.

      #17
      I've never heard of bleeding the brakes after replacing pads or opening the bleeder valve. If you know it's required on your vehicle then do it but I've changed plenty of brakes and never done it. I agree it's best to remove some fluid from the reservoir. I keep a metal turkey baster for that. I also do not replace rotors. You need to be careful until the pads wear in but that happens fairly quickly. Once the pads wear to the rotor shape, the brakes are the same as if you had new rotors.

      My cars have recently been manual transmission and I regularly get over 100K miles on a set of brakes. So recently I haven't changed many brakes. But my wifes cars have been automatics as have the kids. It takes a couple minutes to see how the caliper attaches or the pads slide out (if you have fixed calipers) but then it's just a matter of turning some bolts, pushing the caliper piston back in (with a C clamp and a block of wood) and putting the new pads in. More effort in jacking the car up and pulling the wheels.

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      • SHADOWFOX
        Veteran Member
        • May 2005
        • 1232
        • IL, USA.
        • DELTA 36-675

        #18
        Doing brakes on the vehicle is really not that difficult. I just did the brakes on my 2006 Honda Pilot SUV and the new set of rotors and pads and other items needed only cost a little over $200.00..

        Keep an eye out for Advance Auto Part coupons regularly posted on deal sites.. They sometimes would have $50 off $100. I have multiple accounts with them and was able to take advantage of the promotional codes for each accounts.

        Honda Dealership wanted almost $800 and CarX, Meineke and Midas wanted $600 plus... I was able to complete the brake job one Saturday afternoon.

        C clamp is all u need to compress the pistons. I recommend bleeding the brakes to get rid of air pockets in the line.

        Used the money saved for a new tool
        Chris

        "The first key to wisdom is constant and frequent questioning, for by doubting we are led to question and by questioning we arrive at the truth." -Pierre Abelard 11th Century philosopher.

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        • atgcpaul
          Veteran Member
          • Aug 2003
          • 4055
          • Maryland
          • Grizzly 1023SLX

          #19
          OK, naive question. I understand how the brake fluid could overflow when I compress the piston, but how does air enter the system to the point it needs to be bleed out?

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          • jdon
            Established Member
            • Feb 2010
            • 401
            • Snoqualmie, Wash.
            • BT3100

            #20
            As pads wear, the pistons necessarily move further out in their cylinders, so the level in the reservoir will drop, and possibly run dry. However, as long as there's no break in the system and there's always enough fluid in the reservoir theoretically you shouldn't need to bleed the brakes.

            However, brake fluid can absorb water, which can corrode brake lines and lower the boiling point of the fluid, risking brake failure. I figure that as long as I'm under the car working on the brakes, I might as well make sure that there's fresh fluid, and that air hasn't crept into the system. For example, bleeder nipples, as have been noted, are weak points in the system.

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            • Condoman44
              Established Member
              • Nov 2013
              • 178
              • CT near Norwich
              • Ryobi BT3000

              #21
              I have never had to bleed my brakes. I Just keep them filled to the middle mark between min and max. My problem when I did the pad change was that I removed the reservoir cover then forgot to actually remove some fluid. I only did that once.

              I have most recently changed a 2003 & 2005 Honda Element. I have a 2009 Ridgeline but need another 15K miles before the pads need changing.

              Comment

              • JimD
                Veteran Member
                • Feb 2003
                • 4187
                • Lexington, SC.

                #22
                Bleeding the brakes to put some new fluid in makes sense. BMW recommends brake fluid changeout every 2 years. Brake fluid is hydroscopic - absorbs moisture - so old brake fluid can be reasonably presumed to contain moisture. Moisture will corrode the lines and calipers and not work well as brake fluid. By the time I need brakes, my fluid is very old. So that makes sense.

                If you change the brake fluid this way, I think you should get a new bottle. It picks up moisture sitting on your shelf too. So the fluid you bought last time is not as moisture free as a new sealed container will be.

                I like to use the pressure bleeder I bought my son for this. It makes it easy. They are a little pricey, between $50 and 100, but make it an easy one person job.

                Comment

                • durango dude
                  Senior Member
                  • Mar 2011
                  • 934
                  • a thousand or so feet above insanity
                  • 50s vintage Craftsman Contractor Saw

                  #23
                  I just checked the Ferrari owner's manual, and it says "eventual bleed"

                  (not that you or I have a Ferrari)

                  Comment

                  • atgcpaul
                    Veteran Member
                    • Aug 2003
                    • 4055
                    • Maryland
                    • Grizzly 1023SLX

                    #24
                    Looks like I'll be doing another brake job real soon. The car my wife drives daily (2003 Mazda Protege5) has had some wobbly steering. I learn this after I borrowed the car, and her reply, "Oh, yeah, been meaning to tell you." It uses low profile tires and she has no "feel" for when the air runs low. Anyway, the air was low but even after inflating them, still wobbly. Off to the shop yesterday and now I'm back with two new front tires and a full alignment. Mechanic said they were real close to shredding.

                    Anyway, the front brakes on those need to be replaced and the rotors are good but any much more use and they'll need to be machined. So I guess I'll be doing the Mazda first maybe this weekend if it's not too cold.

                    I don't remember the last time the brake fluid was changed out so I'll plan to do that, too.

                    Comment

                    • Knottscott
                      Veteran Member
                      • Dec 2004
                      • 3815
                      • Rochester, NY.
                      • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

                      #25
                      Ironically, right after I first read this thread, the brakes on our van starting making all kinds of nasty grinding noises. I pulled the front tire tonight, and found the inside pad was worn right to the metal...new pads ordered, will pick them up tonight and put 'em on tomorrow. Not a hard job to replace pads on disc brakes at all....I've managed to avoid messing with drum brakes for the most part.
                      Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

                      Comment

                      • capncarl
                        Veteran Member
                        • Jan 2007
                        • 3564
                        • Leesburg Georgia USA
                        • SawStop CTS

                        #26
                        I just got finished replacing the rear disk brakes on my 2003 F 150. Anyone owning this model truck should be aware of the problem that Ford has with rear brakes, not just the truck but other vehicles using this base. It seems that they use calipers with phenolic Pistons that sometimes stick and melt down the rotor, caliper and wheel bearings. This is the 3rd time I've had a meltdown on my truck. Fortunately I have caught it before it set the truck on fire each time! I've got new parts on both sides now so it should be good for 7-8 years before it burns down again. At least the brakes are really easy to replace on this vehicle.
                        capncarl

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                        • JimD
                          Veteran Member
                          • Feb 2003
                          • 4187
                          • Lexington, SC.

                          #27
                          Drum brakes aren't really hard but I do not disassemble both sides at the same time. I like having the other side intact if I get confused about where something goes. There are a lot of parts but otherwise they are easy. And we all have drum brakes for parking. If you have discs in the rear, as nearly all cars do these days, you also have a drum brake, typically inside the disc brake, for parking. Disc brakes cannot easily be engaged with a cable so we get a drum brake for parking. With rear drum brakes, they just use the rear brakes (which is one reason for lots of parts).

                          Comment

                          • atgcpaul
                            Veteran Member
                            • Aug 2003
                            • 4055
                            • Maryland
                            • Grizzly 1023SLX

                            #28
                            I've seen some homebrew gravity brake bleed systems, but a vacuum system would be faster. However, most of the hand pump ones get mostly poor reviews are widely varying reviews.

                            Anyway, I built a Joe WWer vacuum pump system for veneering and I have access to various tubing and cap fittings at work. Most people seem to get the hand pump to around 10 inches of mercury and call it a day for "good enough" bleeding. I figure any of the plastic ware from work could withstand that without crushing.

                            It's been years since I used my pump, but I do think I can adjust how far down it pumps. I'd set it to around 10" or just shut it off when the gauge gets to 10. Sound reasonable?

                            Comment

                            • woodturner
                              Veteran Member
                              • Jun 2008
                              • 2047
                              • Western Pennsylvania
                              • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

                              #29
                              Originally posted by atgcpaul
                              I've seen some homebrew gravity brake bleed systems, but a vacuum system would be faster. However, most of the hand pump ones get mostly poor reviews are widely varying reviews.
                              The parts stores have a brake bleeder kit for around $7, it's a bottle and tubing. Crack open the bleeder valve, attach the hose, pump the brakes a few times, tighten the bleeder. Simple and easy to do.

                              Brakes should always be bled whenever the systems is opened, which essentially means every pad change (since the bleeder should be opened before pushing back the caliper). Unfortunately, most newer cars require a scan tool to bleed the ABS. If you are careful and don't let too much fluid out, you can probably just bleed the wheels and not worry about the ABS.

                              What I do:
                              Buy lifetime warranty calipers, pads, shoes, rotors and drums from Autozone or Advance. Advance runs $50 off $100 coupons and has lifetime warranted rotors. Typically cost for calipers, pads, shoes, rotors, drums, wheel cylinders, and the hardware kit for most cars, with the coupon, will be $100 or less, and is mostly a one-time cost.

                              I change everything - pads, caliper, rotor, hardware - each time I change the pads. Since it is "free" after the first time, no reason not to do it all, and it avoids the issue of frozen pins, etc.

                              I typically use antiseize to "grease" the sliding pins. It's compatible with the rubber (axle grease is not) and seems to work well.

                              Anyway, that's what works for me.
                              --------------------------------------------------
                              Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

                              Comment

                              • capncarl
                                Veteran Member
                                • Jan 2007
                                • 3564
                                • Leesburg Georgia USA
                                • SawStop CTS

                                #30
                                Woodturner, I was in Advance when a man brought back both front calipers, rotors and 3/4 worn down pads for a lifetime exchange and they refused him! Argument ensued, but I overheard the manager say they replaced pads at some point, obviously after more wear than his, and the other parts upon a failure or something. I left before he did but I doubt he left with all new parts.

                                We have so many buy here pay here car places that patch their cars up using lifetime warranty parts that they keep returning parts and fix half the cars on the lot with 1 purchase, and have made the parts places gunshot,

                                The F150 price was $160 for pads 1 rotor & caliper at ORiley.

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