dealing with pine end grain

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  • durango dude
    Senior Member
    • Mar 2011
    • 934
    • a thousand or so feet above insanity
    • 50s vintage Craftsman Contractor Saw

    dealing with pine end grain

    So I cut out a couple of rectangles to make name signs for my niece/nephew.

    I'm following a plain vanilla sign making process: cut rectangle; rout out letters; spray sign black; then sand. Discovered that pine has the kind of end grain that soaks up the black paint. Result ----- the paint spreads horizontally a couple of mm ------ travelling past the letters.

    The sign looks okay, but not great (my sister would think it looks great - but I'm a perfectionist). I'm trying to figure out a good way to address the problem --- especially since I still have a couple more signs to make.

    a) Planer ----- 1/4 inch deep lettering - suspect I could run the sign through a planer and get rid of the paint marks ---- risking tear out, though.

    b) Propane torch accents (I've done this before ---- makes the sign pleasantly rustic).

    c) Paint ---- when in doubt - cover it up (my least favorite alternative)

    d) Toss out pine and try making a sign out of oak.
    Last edited by durango dude; 11-17-2014, 12:27 PM.
  • Bill in Buena Park
    Veteran Member
    • Nov 2007
    • 1865
    • Buena Park, CA
    • CM 21829

    #2
    Try sealing the grain in the letters (and any surrounding area likely to get overpainted) before painting the black. I think spray shellac should work.
    Bill in Buena Park

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    • Black wallnut
      cycling to health
      • Jan 2003
      • 4715
      • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
      • BT3k 1999

      #3
      You could also try a pre-stain conditioner. It has worked for me to even out stain on pine.
      Donate to my Tour de Cure


      marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©

      Head servant of the forum

      ©

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      • trungdok
        Established Member
        • Oct 2012
        • 235
        • MA

        #4
        What Bill said for the future pieces. Shellac the letters, paint, then sand the surface of the board, done.

        For the current "ruined" pieces. Tough luck except maybe enlarge the width of the line of letters, or start over. Even if you planed it down, you will just reveal the paint in the lower part.

        Comment

        • atgcpaul
          Veteran Member
          • Aug 2003
          • 4055
          • Maryland
          • Grizzly 1023SLX

          #5
          Spray shellac would be my vote. You could also brush in a thin "glue size" (PVA glue thinned down with water) into the letters then spray it black, but the spray can will be faster.

          Major problem for me sanding shellac is it tends to gum up sandpaper, but with a thin enough coat, you should be fine.

          Comment

          • LCHIEN
            Internet Fact Checker
            • Dec 2002
            • 20914
            • Katy, TX, USA.
            • BT3000 vintage 1999

            #6
            i think they sell "sanding sealer" in spray cans for that purpose as well. Not sure how it is on sanding but its often used to get a nice smooth blotch free surface for woods that are uneven to paint. So its intended to be sprayedon, sanded smooth and then painted, I think.

            read this:
            Loring in Katy, TX USA
            If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
            BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

            Comment

            • Ken Massingale
              Veteran Member
              • Dec 2002
              • 3862
              • Liberty, SC, USA.
              • Ridgid TS3650

              #7
              I've found Zinsser SealCoat to work best for sealing end grain, and as a base for finishes.
              The spray shellac is sealcoat in an easy to use aerosol, but an expensive option.
              SealCoat is wax free so there's no issue with applying other finishes on it.
              For the end grain really soak it in, let dry, repeat as needed.

              Ken

              Comment

              • durango dude
                Senior Member
                • Mar 2011
                • 934
                • a thousand or so feet above insanity
                • 50s vintage Craftsman Contractor Saw

                #8
                thanks, folks.

                Shellac worked. It added a little extra time to making the sign
                (waiting for drying) ---- but it worked.

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