MDF Drawer boxes?

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  • frumper64
    Established Member
    • Feb 2004
    • 376
    • Garland, Tx, USA.

    MDF Drawer boxes?

    I am building a nightstand. The plans call for 1/2" poplar for the sides, front and back of the drawer boxes, to be capped off with a nice hardwood drawer front. I was wondering if I could just make the boxes out of 1/2" MDF instead of planing down poplar to 1/2". There are a couple of reasons - first is that I don't own a thickness planer - would have to get a friend to do it for me. Second is cost - MDF is way cheaper than "real wood". Since the chance of water damage to the drawers is pretty remote, it would seem like the greater stability of the MDF would actually be a plus. Drawer box construction is dados and tenons if that is a consideration. Any inputs would be greatly appreciated.
    Jim
    64sedan_at_gmail.com
  • radhak
    Veteran Member
    • Apr 2006
    • 3058
    • Miramar, FL
    • Right Tilt 3HP Unisaw

    #2
    I have an old chest of drawers that I had picked up from a garage sale 10 years ago that's made that way. The exteriors on all side is some sort of cheap wood (probably pine) painted and varnished to look like cherry. All nine drawers are made of 1/2" mdf with dado joinery.

    In all these years, it has not shown any problems, so I'd say go ahead, you should be fine. If you want you could give a coat of poly to guard against moisture, but that'd be more than I'd do.

    MDF is messy to work with (too much dust, no grip on screws, etc), but it is very stable, and that 1/2" thickness is so much easier to buy in MDF than in wood!
    It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it.
    - Aristotle

    Comment

    • JR
      The Full Monte
      • Feb 2004
      • 5633
      • Eugene, OR
      • BT3000

      #3
      Drawers get a lot of abuse. They get tugged and twisted and torqued. All of which means MDF is not usually considered appropriate for the application.

      My local hardwood suppliers sell prefinished, pre-grooved 1/2" plywood drawer stock in a variety of widths. You might think about something like that.
      JR

      Comment

      • LCHIEN
        Internet Fact Checker
        • Dec 2002
        • 20913
        • Katy, TX, USA.
        • BT3000 vintage 1999

        #4
        some drawers get a lot of abuse, they're in and out of the cabinet and are used as storage containers and shipping boxes and the frame is the guide and support and they're hung out on the end.

        Other drawers are suspended on metal tracks and rails and are handled carefully when an if they are ever removed.

        So MDF is not suited for a bunch of physical abuse as it chips easily, corners will crumble when hit a few times, and edges will retain chips that grow as it wears.

        So whether a MDF drawer holds up is entirely dependent upon its treatment during its lifetime.
        Loring in Katy, TX USA
        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

        Comment

        • leehljp
          Just me
          • Dec 2002
          • 8429
          • Tunica, MS
          • BT3000/3100

          #5
          If you do decide to give 1/2 in MDF a try, there is one thing that will increase its lifespan - drawer guides and glides, or slides, properly installed. Extending Slides would be better.

          I would look for some quality 1/2 inch plywood. I occasionally find that at Lowes. The other problem with MDF on drawers is that what ever joint you want - if it is not a simple butt joint cut by a TS, it will more than likely be quite fibery. I have tried routing MDF in a variety of patterns and most anything but straight/square cuts will be fibery. Not bad but not polished smooth, which made for not so great joints.

          Others may have had a different experience than I did. My last MDF usage was in Japan so the MDF there could have been what caused my problem.
          Hank Lee

          Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

          Comment

          • atgcpaul
            Veteran Member
            • Aug 2003
            • 4055
            • Maryland
            • Grizzly 1023SLX

            #6
            I think I'd use 1/2" ply instead of MDF for this more for looks, though.

            My shop drawers are 1/2" MDF. I put them together using biscuit joints and glue. Then I applied a wood front--5 years after building the drawers. Until that point, I had pulls attached directly to the box. The drawers haven't disintegrated and I haven't been kind to them.

            I built two nightstands with drawers. The sides are wood but I used 1/4" MDF for the bottom in a captured groove-big mistake. My wife had lotion in her drawer that leaked. The bottom is swollen and needs replacement but now I've got to do some surgery to the drawer to do it. I make all my drawers with a shorter back now so the bottom can slide in and out if it ever needs repair.

            Comment

            • JimD
              Veteran Member
              • Feb 2003
              • 4187
              • Lexington, SC.

              #7
              I use baltic birch plywood for drawers. I have a thickness planner but prefer to just cut up a big sheet than to plane down and glue up boards. I join the plywood to solid oak or cherry drawer fronts with dovetails and have had good luck even though that is not recommended. I spray the inside and outside with Resisthane (a water based finish) which probably helps. I get the baltic birch form a hardwood lumber dealer.

              Routing dovetails in plywood I find it much better to do a backcut first to minimize chipping. If you dovetail the MDF (not hard or expensive, I use a jig from Harbor Freight (but with a Grizzly template guide) which is expensive and works well.

              Jim

              Comment

              • cwsmith
                Veteran Member
                • Dec 2005
                • 2737
                • NY Southern Tier, USA.
                • BT3100-1

                #8
                Personally, I wouldn't think of using MDF... but then I don't like MDF for anything. I did two projects with MDF several years ago and everytime I look at them I get upset. Dirty stuff to work with with all the dust, no integrity at all with regards to glued or screws, the stuff will sag even across a foot of space, and it's highly susceptable to humidity.

                When we bought our old home in Painted Post, we were really strapped for cash and we bought really inexpensive cabinets. All the drawers were a combination of MDF and laminated chipboard with veneered fronts. The stuff fell apart even with the greatest of care.

                Pine, being probably the lowest cost alternative, works better on almost every count IMHO. You can buy 2/4 pine at many lumber yards. I made a small table a couple of years ago with a small drawer. It has held up great.

                If I'm not mistaken, I think both HD and Lowes both carry 2/4 stock that is precut. Perhaps a bit expensive, depending on your budget. It's usually in the small bins located near the board stock.

                Regarding plywood, I have an oak bath cabinet that used birch ply for the drawer sides. It doesn't look bad, (depending on your taste of course) and it's held up very well.

                CWS
                Think it Through Before You Do!

                Comment

                • dbhost
                  Slow and steady
                  • Apr 2008
                  • 9209
                  • League City, Texas
                  • Ryobi BT3100

                  #9
                  My personal use of MDF is in areas that will experience no load / stresses what so ever. Drawers is not one of those applications...

                  Although the odds of the drawers getting wet is slight, is it worth the chance? All it would take is setting a glass of water on the night stand and accidentally knocking it over to introduce water into the environment...

                  Why not 1/2" cabinet grade ply? That is reasonably priced and easy to work with...
                  Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

                  Comment

                  • frumper64
                    Established Member
                    • Feb 2004
                    • 376
                    • Garland, Tx, USA.

                    #10
                    Thanks to all for the inputs. I'm leaning toward 1/2 plywood after reading all the opinions. The nightstand will be in a guest bedroom and won't get much use - it's main function is to serve as a place to put a bedside lamp although I'm sure my wife will find a way to fill the drawers.
                    Jim
                    64sedan_at_gmail.com

                    Comment

                    • leehljp
                      Just me
                      • Dec 2002
                      • 8429
                      • Tunica, MS
                      • BT3000/3100

                      #11
                      Originally posted by frumper64
                      Thanks to all for the inputs. I'm leaning toward 1/2 plywood after reading all the opinions. The nightstand will be in a guest bedroom and won't get much use - it's main function is to serve as a place to put a bedside lamp although I'm sure my wife will find a way to fill the drawers.
                      They always do!
                      Hank Lee

                      Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

                      Comment

                      • Stytooner
                        Roll Tide RIP Lee
                        • Dec 2002
                        • 4301
                        • Robertsdale, AL, USA.
                        • BT3100

                        #12
                        I don't think MDF is a building material. I know it gets used for lots of stuff. Even some CNC machines, but anywhere that you have a lot of humidity, it is a poor choice and may cause you more money to repair once it does damage. I am on a personal ban of the stuff.
                        Lee

                        Comment

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