Need some advice: removing wood.

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  • cooterbrown
    Forum Newbie
    • Mar 2013
    • 30

    Need some advice: removing wood.

    Hey,

    Working on a bar in the basement. Got a bit ahead of myself and could use some advice other than - tear it off and do it again.

    1 - I glued down a glass rail and stained it before finding trim to go around the inside of it.

    2 - Once I found the trim - I realized it would fit the bar-base (advantex compositeboard) perfectly had I NOT already glued the glass rail down.

    3 - If you look at the images - you can see I would like to remove appoximately 1/4" from the inside length of the glass rail. The second photo, I think, shows best what I am trying to accomplish.

    I just don't quite know how to do that. I have a 6' level I could clamp down and use as a straight edge. But I don't know how to cut the board JUST to remove the 1/8" glass rail (It's a reused cabinet kick board).

    Any questions - please ask. I don't know if I explained it well.

    Thanks! CB



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  • capncarl
    Veteran Member
    • Jan 2007
    • 3564
    • Leesburg Georgia USA
    • SawStop CTS

    #2
    You might be better off cutting that 1/4" off the bottom of the trim. Nothing good can come from cutting near glass.

    Comment

    • atgcpaul
      Veteran Member
      • Aug 2003
      • 4055
      • Maryland
      • Grizzly 1023SLX

      #3
      Originally posted by capncarl
      You might be better off cutting that 1/4" off the bottom of the trim. Nothing good can come from cutting near glass.
      I think it's actually a wood drink rail to hold glasses, not glass.

      So it's 1/4" thick baseboard glued onto OSB? Does it overhang the OSB or are the two edges flush? If flush, wouldn't you have to cut the OSB, too?

      How is the OSB held onto the base? Looks like bolts (lag?) from the top?

      The trim you're attaching is covering up the exposed edges of your top? I don't understand why you can't apply it the way it is without having to cut back a 1/4".

      Comment

      • trungdok
        Established Member
        • Oct 2012
        • 235
        • MA

        #4
        I don't know what a glass rail is but it looks like there is no glass in any of the pictures. I'll assume you're cutting into wood here. Just get a long, straight 1/4 sheet (maybe cut it to 6" wide) and use it as your straight edge. Lay it to the area you want to cut and use a router with a trimming bit to cut into the rail flush to the 1/4 straight edge.

        Comment

        • cooterbrown
          Forum Newbie
          • Mar 2013
          • 30

          #5
          Oh - it's NOT glass. That is just the term for the part of the bar where glasses sit while the drinks are being mixed. It customarily sits lower than the "bartop"

          Since I am using a single board for my bartop base - I am cheating a glass rail.

          My bartop will be 3/8" Pergo flooring. My "glass rail" is a piece of cabinet kickboard. (The boards that usually sit perpendicular to the floor underneath floor cabinets.)

          This might help...

          Code:
          [url=http://postimg.org/image/ew1kuyqch/][img]http://s24.postimg.org/ew1kuyqch/profile.jpg[/img][/url]

          Comment

          • cooterbrown
            Forum Newbie
            • Mar 2013
            • 30

            #6
            Originally posted by atgcpaul
            I think it's actually a wood drink rail to hold glasses, not glass.

            So it's 1/4" thick baseboard glued onto OSB? Does it overhang the OSB or are the two edges flush? If flush, wouldn't you have to cut the OSB, too?

            How is the OSB held onto the base? Looks like bolts (lag?) from the top?

            The trim you're attaching is covering up the exposed edges of your top? I don't understand why you can't apply it the way it is without having to cut back a 1/4".
            The two edges are currently flush which is not ideal. I think my illustration helps.

            Because the bottom of the "base" is exposed. I could pain it black - but would rather cut back the trim. Because, once cut, it is just a tad longer and will hide the base 100%.

            Comment

            • cooterbrown
              Forum Newbie
              • Mar 2013
              • 30

              #7
              Liquid nails and 10 lag bolts. I think I could sleep on it and it would not break or sag. Using the advantex was a smart tip from a lumber yard guy.

              Comment

              • trungdok
                Established Member
                • Oct 2012
                • 235
                • MA

                #8
                Originally posted by cooterbrown
                My bartop will be 3/8" Pergo flooring. My "glass rail" is a piece of cabinet kickboard. (The boards that usually sit perpendicular to the floor underneath floor cabinets.)
                With that illustration, I think doing what CapnCarl stated would be the easiest and best thing to do. It will hide any imperfect cutting line so everything will look flush.

                Comment

                • atgcpaul
                  Veteran Member
                  • Aug 2003
                  • 4055
                  • Maryland
                  • Grizzly 1023SLX

                  #9
                  Originally posted by cooterbrown
                  This might help...

                  Code:
                  [url=http://postimg.org/image/ew1kuyqch/][img]http://s24.postimg.org/ew1kuyqch/profile.jpg[/img][/url]

                  OK, that makes sense now.

                  Maybe there are two ways to accomplish what you want. The first way is to pad out that subtop edge by 1/4". That will achieve what you want to do.

                  Second way:

                  Can you remove the whole top so you don't get stopped short by the wall?

                  I would remove it from the wall, clamp a long straight edge however far you need to and route away that 1/4" bit of material to the depth of the subtop (thickness of your kickboard). I'd probably lay down a piece of blue tape to prevent chip out, but luckily your trim piece will cover most everything but the worst chip out.

                  The straight edge on a sheet of MDF/ply will be pretty dang straight, and again, your trim will hide all but the waviest of edges.

                  If your customers complain your edge is uneven, tell them they've had too much to drink.

                  Comment

                  • Black wallnut
                    cycling to health
                    • Jan 2003
                    • 4715
                    • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
                    • BT3k 1999

                    #10
                    From what I am seeing you are calling it a glass rail based on its intended use not the material it is made from. Correct me if I am missing something here. If your substrate is particle board you would be mush better off not having a vertical joint right where there is a high possibility of spilled liquids. You could use a router guided by either a straight edge or bearing guided if your edge is straight. Rabbet away half the thickness of the wood. However that may not cover all the edge. I can't see a way to safely trim the trim as capncarl suggests. Maybe you could also chamfer the underside of your top?
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                    Comment

                    • cooterbrown
                      Forum Newbie
                      • Mar 2013
                      • 30

                      #11
                      You are correct - it is not made of glass. Probably should not have used that term.

                      Everything - when finished - will be epoxy'd over so there will be no opportunity for liquids to creep down.

                      IF I can get a straight line down the length of the bar say with a router bit... then chiseling the trim back up off the base will be easy.

                      A router bit may be the best way to go. I just did not know if there were other options.

                      Comment

                      • JSUPreston
                        Veteran Member
                        • Dec 2005
                        • 1189
                        • Montgomery, AL.
                        • Delta 36-979 w/Biesemyere fence kit making it a 36-982. Previous saw was BT3100-1.

                        #12
                        I think I would try some sort of rabbiting bit in the router to get the bulk. The part closest to the wall I would try to get by using my HF multitool.

                        It may be easier to run your molding through a router table to take off some of it so that it fits the way you want.
                        "It's a dog eat dog world out there, and I'm wearing Milk-Bone underwear."- Norm (from Cheers)

                        Eat beef-because the west wasn't won on salad.

                        Comment

                        • tlt
                          Established Member
                          • Jan 2006
                          • 125
                          • Tucson, Arizona.
                          • Delta 36-682

                          #13
                          I agree with the others -- if you fit a router in there to trim it back, that would be ideal.

                          In the event the wall is too close, here's one other idea; chamfer the top of the "glass rail" molding with a 45 degree bit to transition between the molding and the top and give it a smoother look. Cover up the bottom edge with a second piece of molding and pour yourself a drink.

                          Comment

                          • atgcpaul
                            Veteran Member
                            • Aug 2003
                            • 4055
                            • Maryland
                            • Grizzly 1023SLX

                            #14
                            The part closest to the wall will be inaccessible with the router. My suggestion is to score a deep line--using multiple passes--with a utility knife a 1/4" away from the edge. Then go at it with a chisel like you're cutting out a hinge mortise. The rail you've got to remove isn't that thick and this won't take long. The new trim will cover up any gross mistakes.

                            Comment

                            • cooterbrown
                              Forum Newbie
                              • Mar 2013
                              • 30

                              #15
                              Agreed on all front. I was going to do exactly that once I got close to the wall - but did not think about the rabbeting bit which is a good idea - I was going to use just a straight bit - then chisel the difference.

                              I can screw my guide boards straight to the bar base since the pergo has not been laid yet. Or just rely on the rabbeting bit bearing guide.

                              Sounds like a plan! Thanks guys!

                              Comment

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