Countersink bits

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  • tfischer
    Veteran Member
    • Jul 2003
    • 2343
    • Plymouth (Minneapolis), MN, USA.
    • BT3100

    Countersink bits

    A few years back I bought a set of countersink bits from Grizzly. They haven't seen much use but they've frustrated me from day one.

    Basically it's impossible to tighten the set screws to the point where they actually hold. If you try, they strip out, and will still slip.

    Is this common with countersink bits? Can someone recommend a set that isn't insanely priced that actually works?

    Thanks!
  • LCHIEN
    Internet Fact Checker
    • Dec 2002
    • 20914
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #2
    The collar pieces that are adjustable all are pretty cheap metal.
    I find that the you cannot tighten them over a flute or crevice in the bit or countersinking collar. The set screws must land on a place that's perpendicular to the screw axis.
    Try and make sure that you rotate the collar to land on a full diameter part of the bit (shuny part) not in a flute (dark crevice). And for the countersink stop, make sure you land one of the screws on the full diameter parts and not in one of the flutes. The screw will hold much better, to me one properly landed screw is more important that tightening both screws.

    FWIW I have the MLCS tapered bit CS set in a box (I guess an earlier model, mine doesn't have hex shanks which is desirable to keep the shank from slipping.
    Last edited by LCHIEN; 07-07-2014, 11:51 PM.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

    Comment

    • tfischer
      Veteran Member
      • Jul 2003
      • 2343
      • Plymouth (Minneapolis), MN, USA.
      • BT3100

      #3
      Originally posted by LCHIEN
      The collar pieces that are adjustable all are pretty cheap metal.
      I find that the you cannot tighten them over a flute or crevice in the bit or countersinking collar. The set screws must land on a place that's perpendicular to the screw axis.
      Try and make sure that you rotate the collar to land on a full diameter part of the bit (shuny part) not in a flute (dark crevice). And for the countersink stop, make sure you land one of the screws on the full diameter parts and not in one of the flutes. The screw will hold much better, to me one properly landed screw is more important that tightening both screws.

      FWIW I have the MLCS tapered bit CS set in a box (I guess an earlier model, mine doesn't have hex shanks which is desirable to keep the shank from slipping.
      My set looks just like that - box and all. But it's from Grizzly. At least I think it was... maybe it WAS from MCLS. In any case several of the set screws are totally stripped out now so I'm about ready to just chuck the whole business in the trash. It's as if the included wrench was a little too small for all the set screws so it just stripped out.

      Comment

      • LCHIEN
        Internet Fact Checker
        • Dec 2002
        • 20914
        • Katy, TX, USA.
        • BT3000 vintage 1999

        #4
        well, nothing will stay put if the screw is not on a flat part. It it lands on an angle, you are tempted to just tighten it some more, but the side force on a short screw will probably just wallow out the hole and strip it since the metal is crap.
        Loring in Katy, TX USA
        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

        Comment

        • LCHIEN
          Internet Fact Checker
          • Dec 2002
          • 20914
          • Katy, TX, USA.
          • BT3000 vintage 1999

          #5
          I have a set of these - made of flat metal with a rolled round shank. Surprisingly simple and cuts most wood )esp. softer woods) surprisingly well. The disadvantage is the lack of a depth stop and the lack of drill depth adjustment for the screw hole. If I can find one that fits I use these (my set is quite old, from Craftsman (Sears). Teh advantage is of course, no adjustments necessary, no set screws to mess with, no parts to lose.






          Your other choice of course is to drill the pilot hole and then come back in with a countersinking bit. Maybe a third pass with a clearance bit for the shank. I find the so called "zero flute" design below is so much nicer than the fluted kind - smooth cutting, no chatter, clean holes. Get an 82° (not 90°) one to match flat head screws underside bevel.


          uh, lee valley calls them single flute, I call them worm hole countersinks. To me a single flute is a straight flute. Anyway I have these:
          Shop Woodworking Hand & Power Tools Collection on Lee Valley. Browse our selection of Reliable Tools for any Woodworking project.
          Last edited by LCHIEN; 07-08-2014, 12:12 AM.
          Loring in Katy, TX USA
          If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
          BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

          Comment

          • atgcpaul
            Veteran Member
            • Aug 2003
            • 4055
            • Maryland
            • Grizzly 1023SLX

            #6
            I have this Rockler 3 piece set. It comes with some extra drivers and the bits and drivers are all hex shank so they don't slip. I've never had a collar slip on me either. I've mostly been using drywall screws so the tapered bit isn't ideal since the screws are straight shaft, however, I've been moving towards real wood screws so that's not an issue anymore.

            I like the case, too. There are several open bit holder slots so all my commonly used bits like my long Phillips or long square drive bit also have a home in the case.


            Last edited by atgcpaul; 07-08-2014, 10:26 AM. Reason: wrong link

            Comment

            • tfischer
              Veteran Member
              • Jul 2003
              • 2343
              • Plymouth (Minneapolis), MN, USA.
              • BT3100

              #7
              The depth stop isn't a big deal to me as I use the drill press 90% of the time.

              It seems like having a set screw against a smooth round surface subjected to a lot of torque is just plain not good design. They should have flattened the shaft so the set screw had something to tighten against.

              We're actually going to be in Springfield, MO later this month so I will be able to actually go visit a Grizzly showroom. Maybe I can find a set with a better design while I'm there. It would be sweet if they had one in the clearance room or something lol.

              Comment

              • LinuxRandal
                Veteran Member
                • Feb 2005
                • 4889
                • Independence, MO, USA.
                • bt3100

                #8
                I originally bought separate countersinks for fine woodworking and picked up the Snappy's with the regular drill bits, from Woodcraft. (home project stuff)

                I like them so well, I probably use them where I should use a tapered bit. I have thought about buying and trying some taper bits in them.
                She couldn't tell the difference between the escape pod, and the bathroom. We had to go back for her.........................Twice.

                Comment

                • durango dude
                  Senior Member
                  • Mar 2011
                  • 934
                  • a thousand or so feet above insanity
                  • 50s vintage Craftsman Contractor Saw

                  #9
                  +1 re. Snappy.

                  I got my first Snappy drill bit with a screw sampler from Woodcraft.

                  Liked it so much, bought a set for $25.

                  Worth every penny.

                  Comment

                  • ironhat
                    Veteran Member
                    • Aug 2004
                    • 2553
                    • Chambersburg, PA (South-central).
                    • Ridgid 3650 (can I still play here?)

                    #10
                    I'm in agreement that the screw may not rest in or on the edge of a flute. There is one other point that may help. Reloading dies have lock rings which also have set screws. They are notoriously hard to tighten and will strip the screw-head wrench pocket so, someone came up with this strategy some years ago. You put a piece of lead shot into the hole which will deform and mold to the shank on one side and the screw end on the other, widening the footprint on both sides. Sorry that I don't know the size of the shot for you. I'm sure someone will pipe in with that size.
                    Last edited by ironhat; 07-09-2014, 02:03 PM. Reason: clarity
                    Blessings,
                    Chiz

                    Comment

                    • Joe DeFazio
                      Forum Newbie
                      • Jan 2006
                      • 78
                      • Pittsburgh, PA
                      • BT3100

                      #11
                      Originally posted by LCHIEN
                      ...I find the so called "zero flute" design below is so much nicer than the fluted kind - smooth cutting, no chatter, clean holes. Get an 82° (not 90°) one to match flat head screws underside bevel.


                      uh, lee valley calls them single flute, I call them worm hole countersinks. To me a single flute is a straight flute. Anyway I have these:
                      http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/pag...240,42281&ap=1
                      I agree with Loring that the "zero flute" design is great and works really well. You can get a cheap set of three from Harbor Freight for under ten bucks:



                      They work surprisingly well.

                      Joe

                      Comment

                      • dbhost
                        Slow and steady
                        • Apr 2008
                        • 9209
                        • League City, Texas
                        • Ryobi BT3100

                        #12
                        Looks like you are talking about the kind of countersinks that drill the pilot hole as well. I have been through sets from Vermont American, Grizzly, and Ryobi. All have been various stages of junk, with the Ryobi being the best of the junk...

                        The problem with the Ryobi is the bit is brittle and tends to break off, and replacements are a PITA to find...

                        I have found it easier, and actually faster to pre drill my pilot holes, and use the non pilot drilling counter sinks like are pictured above. I have a TiN coated set from Mibro that has served me very well although I have trashed the smallest one after years of abuse... Need to replace it...
                        Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

                        Comment

                        • tfischer
                          Veteran Member
                          • Jul 2003
                          • 2343
                          • Plymouth (Minneapolis), MN, USA.
                          • BT3100

                          #13
                          Thanks again for the advice.

                          Looking forward to my trip to MO... it think entering the Grizzly showroom is going to be like a kid entering a toy megastore lol. Kind of like the first time I walked into a Harbor Freight after reading their catalogs for years...

                          Comment

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