Flip top tool cart questions

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  • woodturner
    Veteran Member
    • Jun 2008
    • 2047
    • Western Pennsylvania
    • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

    #16
    Originally posted by atgcpaul
    My major concern with the threaded rod is that the threads will gouge the wood as I spin the top over and over.
    Another issue is that threaded rod is weaker than steel rod.

    I would use drill rod - it's precisely machined tool steel rod available at relatively low cost. Any metal supplier should have it, but probably not the box stores. It is sold unhardened, so you can drill it and machine it. It can be hardened, but you should not need to harden it for your application.

    A cotter pin and washer will be fine to constrain end to end movement, as LCHIEN suggested.
    --------------------------------------------------
    Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

    Comment

    • Stytooner
      Roll Tide RIP Lee
      • Dec 2002
      • 4301
      • Robertsdale, AL, USA.
      • BT3100

      #17
      If you want it to spin real easy.
      Garage door rollers for about $15 or so will do a nice job of it provided you have a Forstner bit that would be close enough.








      Lee

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      • greenacres2
        Senior Member
        • Dec 2011
        • 633
        • La Porte, IN
        • Ryobi BT3000

        #18
        Wow Lee--that's a great idea.

        earl

        Comment

        • dbhost
          Slow and steady
          • Apr 2008
          • 9209
          • League City, Texas
          • Ryobi BT3100

          #19
          I have been contemplating building actually a couple of those. One for my jointer on one side, and planer on the other, and the second to house my Ridgid OSS on one side and my mortiser on the other side.

          The axle should actually be pretty easy. Pick your shaft size (1/2" for example). Make sure your shaft is about 1/2" to 5/8" wider than your whole assembly. Using a tap and die, thread BOTH ends about 1/2" to 3/4" (Depending on the thickness of your material) down the shaft. Use a thread insert on one side, thread the rod there with some threadlocker, and run it all the way through, then thread your nut on the proud piece... Smooth rod as it goes through the wood, threaded where you need it.
          Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

          Comment

          • atgcpaul
            Veteran Member
            • Aug 2003
            • 4055
            • Maryland
            • Grizzly 1023SLX

            #20
            As I'm piecing this cart together, I'm realizing what I really need to be worried about is how the bottom attaches to the sides. There's going to be a lot of top weight on there. How did you attach the sides to the bottom so the cart doesn't sway?

            I've seen some carts with a plywood brace on the front and back with clearance for the tools to spin through. I was going to have a drawer down there to hold the loose parts from the sander. Was thinking that the back of the drawer would act as the brace. Think that's enough?

            Comment

            • gsmittle
              Veteran Member
              • Aug 2004
              • 2784
              • St. Louis, MO, USA.
              • BT 3100

              #21
              Originally posted by atgcpaul
              As I'm piecing this cart together, I'm realizing what I really need to be worried about is how the bottom attaches to the sides. There's going to be a lot of top weight on there. How did you attach the sides to the bottom so the cart doesn't sway?

              I've seen some carts with a plywood brace on the front and back with clearance for the tools to spin through. I was going to have a drawer down there to hold the loose parts from the sander. Was thinking that the back of the drawer would act as the brace. Think that's enough?
              You might need a plywood back on the cart. Of course, that would limit you to flipping the top in only one direction. OTOH, it's not a propeller.

              I built one using the drawings in an old Wood article. One end is closed, the other has a cutout brace to swing the planer through. Very solid.

              g.
              Smit

              "Be excellent to each other."
              Bill & Ted

              Comment

              • atgcpaul
                Veteran Member
                • Aug 2003
                • 4055
                • Maryland
                • Grizzly 1023SLX

                #22
                Originally posted by gsmittle
                You might need a plywood back on the cart. Of course, that would limit you to flipping the top in only one direction.
                g.
                Maybe if I only had one tool to flip

                I guess I'll see how rigid the drawer back is and if that's a bust, work out a plywood back with a cutout.

                Comment

                • Stytooner
                  Roll Tide RIP Lee
                  • Dec 2002
                  • 4301
                  • Robertsdale, AL, USA.
                  • BT3100

                  #23
                  Originally posted by gsmittle
                  You might need a plywood back on the cart. Of course, that would limit you to flipping the top in only one direction. OTOH, it's not a propeller.



                  g.
                  This won't work unless a precise cutout of one of the tools is cut away.
                  It may not be a propeller, but it has to have clearance like one.

                  You can make the base a bit longer than needed and add gussets to the outside.
                  Another option is to make multiple ribs and interlock each one at the base making a much stronger 90 degree attachment. Then skin like a torsion box.
                  A drawer could be added underneath the base after you have the space needed for the longest tool.
                  Lee

                  Comment

                  • atgcpaul
                    Veteran Member
                    • Aug 2003
                    • 4055
                    • Maryland
                    • Grizzly 1023SLX

                    #24
                    Almost ready to mount the tools.

                    Like I said, it's a "scrap" project. I doubled up melamine and MDF for the sides. They are only screwed together and then wrapped in walnut edging. The bottom is two layers of MDF glued together. The top is two layers of surplus wood shelving with a 1/2" piece of Baltic birch glued in between. The top is also edged with walnut. It is a HEAVY beast.

                    The bottom was pocket screwed to the sides and then I lag bolted through the sides into the bottom. Once I got the rod passed through the top and the whole thing on casters on the floor, it is really solid. We'll see what it's like once the planer in the background is on it as well as the OSS. The top spins nicely enough.

                    I guess I made a measuring error because the hole in the top is not centered. In one orientation, the ends of the top are flush with the sides. When flipped, one end sticks out about 1/4". Oh well. I need to figure out what I'll do to keep the top from spinning when it's in use. I think I'll use some through bolts in the side that engage some nuts in the top.

                    Comment

                    • Stytooner
                      Roll Tide RIP Lee
                      • Dec 2002
                      • 4301
                      • Robertsdale, AL, USA.
                      • BT3100

                      #25
                      A couple of hand clamps worked for me. The load is on the center bolt. It takes almost nothing to stop swivel.
                      Looks great though. I have to do this again very soon. I have two small band saws. One cuts non ferrous metals. The other cuts plastics. Each needs a different blade to cut correctly.
                      Lee

                      Comment

                      • atgcpaul
                        Veteran Member
                        • Aug 2003
                        • 4055
                        • Maryland
                        • Grizzly 1023SLX

                        #26
                        Originally posted by Stytooner
                        I have to do this again very soon.
                        I know I'm jumping the gun since I haven't even used this cart yet, but I've already started thinking about what else I can put on a flip cart. I have a drum sander but nothing to pair it with. Maybe the mini lathe and put leveling feet to stabilize the whole thing.

                        Comment

                        • atgcpaul
                          Veteran Member
                          • Aug 2003
                          • 4055
                          • Maryland
                          • Grizzly 1023SLX

                          #27
                          Almost done. Put a coat of oil varnish on it last night to bring out the walnut edging. Mounted the planer and sander today. I forgot how heavy that planer is! I still need to assemble and install the drawer at the bottom. It will hold loose parts for the sander. It pivots easily and it doesn't take too much effort to move them into position although the planer is much heavier than the sander. Since the base isn't splayed out like the old planer base was, this takes up less floor space. Additionally, the four full-swivel casters make moving it around so much nicer than the old base.

                          Comment

                          • wardprobst
                            Senior Member
                            • Jan 2006
                            • 681
                            • Wichita Falls, TX, USA.
                            • Craftsman 22811

                            #28
                            Nice work, looks good.
                            DP
                            www.wardprobst.com

                            Comment

                            • pelligrini
                              Veteran Member
                              • Apr 2007
                              • 4217
                              • Fort Worth, TX
                              • Craftsman 21829

                              #29
                              Originally posted by atgcpaul
                              I need to figure out what I'll do to keep the top from spinning when it's in use. I think I'll use some through bolts in the side that engage some nuts in the top.
                              Looks good!

                              I ended up using two 1/4" hitch pins on opposite corners to hold mine in place. They were really easy to align and install (no exact measuring!) and are very simple to operate.

                              I fixed the top in place with a couple clamps, drilled through the side and into the top on one corner, slid in a hitch pin, drilled the other corner, flipped the top and fixed it into place with clamps again, then used the previously drilled hole in the side to drill the top. They've been working like a charm! I did wax the holes since the fit was very tight.
                              Erik

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