Bandsaw purchase help

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  • RJD2
    Forum Newbie
    • Feb 2006
    • 57

    Bandsaw purchase help

    I am looking to purchase a bandsaw and would appreciate some assistance with the decision. I don't do very much resawing, and basically 6" or less has been the range in the past. It will be primarily utilized for things such as bamboo rod building tasks, making wooden fishing lures, and wooden trout net frames. Budget wise less than $1,000 would be the target. I figure a 14" will suit my needs, so was looking at the G0555LANV 14" Deluxe Bandsaw from Grizzly. However, they also have a G0513ANV 17" 2 HP Bandsaw which would still fit my budget. The extra table space, etc. could come in handy. I have very little experience with bandsaws and have never owned one. My understanding with larger bandsaws is that a foot brake is nice to have for a number of reasons (e.g., safety being one, slows the blade down in a few seconds as opposed to 30 seconds). How important is a foot brake and would you consider it a deal breaker in a purchase if the bandsaw didn't have it? Any input concerning these offerings from Grizzly? Also, any other brands to consider? Thanks.

    In celebration of our 30th Anniversary, we took two of our most popular saws and created a special edition color scheme that is sure to be the eye candy in workshops and small businesses nationwide. The G0555LANV is the exact same machine as our G0555LX except for our anniversary special edition colors. Grab one quick, these are sure to sell out fast!<p>The G0555LANV 14" Deluxe Bandsaw has many of the same great specifications and features as our extremely popular G0555, but with the following notable differences:<ul><li>Computer-balanced cast-iron wheels<li>Sturdy T-shape fence design</ul><p><font color="red">CSA certified meeting CSA C22.2 #71.2-10 and UL 987-8th standards!</font><p><B>Features:</B><ul><li>All ball bearing construction<li>Cast-iron frame<li>Precision-ground cast-iron table<li>Computer balanced cast-iron wheels with rubber tires<li>4" dust port<li>Upper and lower ball bearing blade guides and thrust bearings<li>Open frame stand<li>Includes 3/8" blade and miter gauge<li>Rack-and-pinion guide post adjustment for upper blade guides</ul><p><b>Specifications:</b><ul><li>Motor: 1 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase, TEFC, 1725 RPM, prewired 110V<li>Amps: 11A at 110V, 5.5A at 220V<li>Table size: 14" x 14" x 1-1/2"<li>Table tilt: 45 deg. right, 10 deg. left<li>Floor to table height: 43"<li>Cutting capacity/throat: 13-1/2"<li>Maximum cutting height: 6"<li>Blade size: 93-1/2" (1/8" to 3/4" wide)<li>Blade speed: 1800, 3100 FPM<li>Overall dimensions: 27" wide x 67-1/2" high x 30" deep<li>Approximate shipping weight: 247 lbs.

    Grizzly Industrial, Inc. is a national retail and internet company providing a wide variety of high-quality woodworking and metalworking machinery, power tools, hand tools and accessories. By selling directly to end users we provide the best quality products at the best price to professionals and hobbyists.
  • BadeMillsap
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 868
    • Bulverde, Texas, USA.
    • Grizzly G1023SL

    #2
    I bought the Grizzly G0513X2 a while back I wanted the cast iron wheels.

    I have been very happy with it. Sometimes I wish I had the brake but wouldn't consider it a deal breaker

    I considered the anniversary model as well and think it is a good buy I just wanted the heavier wheels. I do quite a lot of resawing in my shop.
    Last edited by BadeMillsap; 07-30-2014, 03:17 PM. Reason: additional info
    "Like an old desperado, I paint the town beige ..." REK
    Bade Millsap
    Bulverde, Texas
    => Bade's Personal Web Log
    => Bade's Lutherie Web Log

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    • mpc
      Senior Member
      • Feb 2005
      • 979
      • Cypress, CA, USA.
      • BT3000 orig 13amp model

      #3
      I have the original green version of the Rikon 14-325 which is a 14 inch Euro-frame style bandsaw. This one has extra resaw capacity - well above 6 inches, closer to 13 if I remember right. So far I've been quite pleased with it. No blade brake but I don't miss that. A lot of folks think a blade brake is good when the blade busts. Nope - because it's under tension in the saw, as soon as the blade snaps it pops off the wheels and pretty much comes to a dead stop instantly. The wheels continue coast a while; a blade brake will stop only the lower wheel when the blade is busted. The brake is handy if you cut small pieces that just sit on the table after cutting (kinda like folks do with scroll saws) where you want to stop the blade before reaching in there. I can afford to wait a half minute for my saw to coast down on its own.

      Things I would look for:
      a: what is the range of blade sizes the saw can take? Skinny 1/8th inch blades are used for fine/sharp turns, big 3/4" to 3" blades for resawing, etc. Most <$1000 bandsaws won't take blades above an inch or so. They'll resaw most stuff just fine; the 2 or 3 inch resaw blades make it easier to cut straighter and cut faster. Such honkin' blades demand a structurally beefy saw though to properly tension them.

      b: windows in the upper wheelhouse so you can monitor the blade tracking

      c: blade quick-release tension lever

      d: some sort of blade tension indicator scale, usually visible through another window in the upper wheelhouse. Factory scales are generally considered inaccurate. But they are repeatable - once you find a blade tension that makes your 1/4 inch blade cut properly, just note what your scale reads - and always go back to that for 1/4 inch blades. Same for 1/2 inch blades, etc. (when you eventually find you have to tension beyond those points to get good cuts, that's a sign the bandsaw tensioning spring is wearing out)

      e: how much stuff has to be removed to change blades. Some bandsaws require the mounting rail for the fence to be removed to change blades... some don't. Often, the slot in the table for blade changes faces to the side of the table - not towards the front of the table and the fence mounting rail - so that you don't have to mess with the fence to change blades. There should be some sort of cover on the upper blade support (the part that you move up/down to match your workpiece height) and sometimes that is a pain for blade changes. If it is spring-loaded shut, you'll need a 3rd hand to hold it open while trying to wiggle the blade in place. Not fun. The more steps involved with blade changes the less likely you'll be to change to the proper blade for each job.

      f: the blade tensioning wheel: can you reach it? Many bandsaws have the tension wheel at the very top; when you get to high resaw capacity and/or large wheel diameters this may be too high to easily reach and twist - tensioning blades requires a good grip on the wheel. A few bandsaws now mount the wheel to the bottom of the upper wheelhouse - easy to reach.

      Other things to think about:
      a: I prefer bandsaws that put the blade-changing slot (in the table) at the front of the table, rather than along the side of the table. That way removing the old blade and inserting the new blade is more of a straight-shot. Easier, and less risk to fingers. The Rikon has front blade changing; the fence mounting rail ends just at the slot so you don't have to remove it to change the blade.

      b: How stiff is the table and the "trunnion" it mounts to? There should be no perceptible flex when you put your workpiece onto the saw. Many saws flunk this... hard to get a straight or vertical cut when the table is flexing as you work. The slot cut in the table to allow blade changing is a weak point. So bandsaws use various means to bridge that gap: my Rikon has is a thick metal bar that bridges the slot (from underneath the table) to stabilize the table; I have to undo one end of this and pivot it out of the way for a blade change. Quite a few bandsaws use a cone-shaped plug that fits into a mating cone-shaped hole in the slot to stabilize the table across the slot. This too gets removed for blade changes. Don't loose it either!

      c: access to the lower blade guides. Adjusting the lower blade guides is usually the worst part of blade changes. Some saws make you rotate the table a bit, others make you remove dust collection ducting, etc. A few have knobs or other linkages you can grab, twist, etc. to make the adjustments - a lot easier than trying to grab the bearings/guides directly and move them teeny distances.

      d: 120 or 240 volt operation - what do you have in your shop? Higher horsepower motors typically run better on 240 volts since that means 1/2 the amperage of a 120 volt circuit for a given horsepower... and voltage losses from wiring, outlets, bad connections, etc. are directly related to the number of amps actually flowing.

      e: look at the fence that comes with the bandsaw. Does it easily adjust for blade drift (i.e. can you adjust so it points slightly left or right instead of just 90 degrees to the table front edge?) Does the fence rotate 90 degrees to lay flat for working on thin stock? Any attachments for resaw - like a vertical post/cylinder bar? None of these are deal breakers; you can buy aftermarket or make your own... just something to keep in mind when comparing price/value.

      f: on that same note: does the saw include a miter gauge that's worthwhile? Many don't. Again, a price/value comparison thing. At least verify that the table has a standard sized miter slot, hopefully with the extra cutouts for anti-tipping miter gauges. (instead of a plain rectangular cross section like you'd make with dado blades in a table saw, modern miter slots have a wide upside-down "T" profile, ears on the end of the miter gauge's bar ride in the "T")

      The Grizzly saws have a good reputation, as does Rikon (often on sale at Woodcraft), and of course Laguna. Jet and Powermatic are also generally good. The Sears 10 inch, 12 inch, and 14 inch Craftsmen saws aren't bad either - and many of their parts are darn similar to the Rikon saws (same factory?).

      mpc
      Last edited by mpc; 07-30-2014, 03:16 PM.

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      • toolguy1000
        Veteran Member
        • Mar 2009
        • 1142
        • westchester cnty, ny

        #4
        get the 17" grizzly. 2 hp is really nice to have. i'd suggest a rikon 10-345, but it's considerably more than the linked 17" grizzly and larger wheels mean less strain on the blade for longer life and better cuts.
        there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

        Comment

        • durango dude
          Senior Member
          • Mar 2011
          • 934
          • a thousand or so feet above insanity
          • 50s vintage Craftsman Contractor Saw

          #5
          I stepped up from a cheap ryobi bench top to a much nicer 12" Craftsman (about 15 yrs old ---- 2 wheel variety) that came on a stand.

          I noticed the difference in HP - in that I'm now fine cutting curves in thick (3-4") oak - which is something I couldn't do with the ryobi. It also helped to get good blades (makes a WORLD of difference).

          Just looked at a really nice Delta 14" - and the chief improvement I noticed was more universal blade lengths. The Delta sets up easier ---- and Carter products are easier to get for it, as well.

          The only other upgrade I crave is a step up to a 220V saw - which might provide a smoother cut - but since my shop doesn't have 220, I'm deferring that urge.

          Grizzly just released a pretty darn good looking 14" saw for $525 plus freight.
          Their products have riser block kits - which is a great way to get more without spending lots.

          Comment

          • atgcpaul
            Veteran Member
            • Aug 2003
            • 4055
            • Maryland
            • Grizzly 1023SLX

            #6
            I'm actually torn with what to suggest you buy. I bought a Grizzly 5013 back in 2006. It seems identical to the anniversary edition other than the color. At the time we had just sold a house and I was filling my new shop with new tools. We were flush with money and I decided to go big on the BS because you'd rather have it when you need it than not.

            Don't get me wrong, it's a very nice saw, and I agree that the only thing I wish it had was a brake, but you just learn to live with that.

            I've done some resawing on it up to 10", but I have definitely not pushed it to its limits as I had anticipated. I don't remember ever needing to use the full throat capacity. If you ever think you'll need it, then get it. But I think you will be happy with the less expensive Grizzly 555 which, at least in the past, has always scored well in tool reviews. And if you want to do resawing, you can get the riser block. It doesn't sound like you'll need it, though.

            Comment

            • capncarl
              Veteran Member
              • Jan 2007
              • 3564
              • Leesburg Georgia USA
              • SawStop CTS

              #7
              I've got the box stock Delta 14". It was a rough cutting out of whack saw when new. After chaing the tires and balancing the wheels, building a diecent fence it is a great saw. Buy good blades, forget the box store blades and order good ones. After owing several bench top saws I learned that bigger is better. I do wish I had gone with a more premium saw. Go as big as you can afford. Get the best you can find. A few $$ will not seem like much later when you are enjoying your saw rather than working on it.

              Comment

              • toolguy1000
                Veteran Member
                • Mar 2009
                • 1142
                • westchester cnty, ny

                #8
                Originally posted by durango dude
                .......The only other upgrade I crave is a step up to a 220V saw - which might provide a smoother cut - but since my shop doesn't have 220, I'm deferring that urge......
                there is no correlation that i am aware of between a motor's operating voltage and the smoothness of a saw's operation. i have both 110 and 220 volt tools and they all balance nickels. converting to 220v would be a waste of resources if smoothness of operation were the sole objective.
                there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

                Comment

                • jdon
                  Established Member
                  • Feb 2010
                  • 401
                  • Snoqualmie, Wash.
                  • BT3100

                  #9
                  A couple of other things to consider:

                  Blade availability- the standard 14" cast iron frame with 93-1/2" blades is pretty standard, and those blades are available pretty much anywhere- even Lowes and BORG carry them , so in an urgent situation you can get one relatively easily and cheaply. One drawback is of large (>3/4") blades for serious resawing can't be used.

                  If table size is the only major factor (throat and resaw depths don't seem significant in your case), you can easily make a custom auxiliary table to suit your needs.

                  Ease of use: a larger saw may or may not be easier to adjust blade guides, change blades, etc.

                  Accessories/upgrades: if a smaller (cheaper) saw fits your needs, your left over budget can be applied to enhancing performance- better and more blades, better guides (e.g. Carter), resaw fences, etc. Like most tools in the shop, the tool itself is only the ante.

                  I can't comment on the use of a foot brake. Bandsaws are one of the safest tools in most shops, and I see the brake as more of a convenience than a safety factor. Compared with all the other "wasted" time I've spent on woodworking, the few seconds waiting for my saw to stop spinning is minimal.

                  Comment

                  • durango dude
                    Senior Member
                    • Mar 2011
                    • 934
                    • a thousand or so feet above insanity
                    • 50s vintage Craftsman Contractor Saw

                    #10
                    Originally posted by toolguy1000
                    there is no correlation that i am aware of between a motor's operating voltage and the smoothness of a saw's operation. i have both 110 and 220 volt tools and they all balance nickels. converting to 220v would be a waste of resources if smoothness of operation were the sole objective.
                    I consider myself rebuked and corrected.

                    TG is correct ---- I'm confusing 3 phase with 220. There is no distinct advantage to using 220 vs 110. (3 phase does have the advantage of pulling more smoothly --- and I'm nowhere near wanting or needing it).

                    Comment

                    • Bill in Buena Park
                      Veteran Member
                      • Nov 2007
                      • 1865
                      • Buena Park, CA
                      • CM 21829

                      #11
                      With your budget, my suggestion would be to buy the most saw you can afford/handle now, and let its features be available for your future needs instead of potentially outgrowing the saw and having to sell/buy up later.

                      It's great to have the resaw option if later you want to do some. But don't forget that height capacity isn't limited to resaw, you can also break down larger tree segments to create your own boards or turning blanks or whatever. You might not need it now, but its there if you want it later.

                      Like others, I went economy - basic Delta 14in with 6in height, and almost immediately wanted more capacity and power to process logs into turning stock - so added the riser, a Kreg fence with resaw fence, replaced the upper and lower blocks with bearings, and swapped the 3/4 HP motor out for 1.5HP. Did it as budget allowed, and I have what I need (for now), but probably cost more to do the add-ons than if I'd just bought larger in the first place.

                      Having said all that, if I found myself with a windfall close to your budget, I'd seriously consider that Grizzly 17in Anniversary model. Looks like a deal compared to similar size saws from Rikon or Jet. Has a decent-looking table and fence, 2hp motor, and good resaw (i.e., log-processing) height.

                      Regarding blades - I tend to stick to a few that work for me, none of which can be had at the local box stores anyway and need to be ordered, such as Timberwolf (by Suffolk Machinery), Woodslicer and Woodturner (from Highland Woodworking) and Lenox (I like the Diemaster2 Bimetal in 3tpi hook for larger stock breakdown). Any of those you can buy in standard lengths or whatever custom length you need.
                      Last edited by Bill in Buena Park; 08-04-2014, 02:39 PM.
                      Bill in Buena Park

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                      • capncarl
                        Veteran Member
                        • Jan 2007
                        • 3564
                        • Leesburg Georgia USA
                        • SawStop CTS

                        #12
                        The band saws in the fab shop from my previous jobs all had foot brakes. I hated them. All they were good for was knocking me on the ankle when I walked by.

                        Comment

                        • woodturner
                          Veteran Member
                          • Jun 2008
                          • 2047
                          • Western Pennsylvania
                          • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

                          #13
                          Originally posted by durango dude
                          There is no distinct advantage to using 220 vs 110
                          with regard to smoothness of operation.

                          The primary benefit of 220V over 110V for a home shop is that the 220V motor produces about twice the power for the same current. As a result, a 2 HP to 3 HP motor can be used, instead of the maximum of 1.5 HP that is usable with 110 V.
                          --------------------------------------------------
                          Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

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                          • woodturner
                            Veteran Member
                            • Jun 2008
                            • 2047
                            • Western Pennsylvania
                            • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

                            #14
                            Originally posted by RJD2
                            However, they also have a G0513ANV 17" 2 HP Bandsaw which would still fit my budget.
                            Grizzly sells through the Sears.com website http://www.sears.com/grizzly-14inch-...1&blockType=G1

                            If you do the SYWR thing, and have points available, you may get a discount or even a free saw. It also earns SYWR points.

                            If you are not already doing SYWR, it may not be much help. Still, if you play their (free) sweepstakes and sign up for the (free) points through localads, it's not difficult to accumulate the 1.2M points that would get you a "free" bandsaw.
                            --------------------------------------------------
                            Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

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                            • LCHIEN
                              Internet Fact Checker
                              • Dec 2002
                              • 20913
                              • Katy, TX, USA.
                              • BT3000 vintage 1999

                              #15
                              Originally posted by toolguy1000
                              there is no correlation that i am aware of between a motor's operating voltage and the smoothness of a saw's operation. i have both 110 and 220 volt tools and they all balance nickels. converting to 220v would be a waste of resources if smoothness of operation were the sole objective.
                              I agree with DD that 220V doesn't confer smoothness. The only thing 220V really buys you for the tool itself is allowing power higher than you can get with a 110V standard circuit, e.g. more than about 1.5-2HP.

                              For your shop it can also reduce wiring requirements to some degree.

                              THere's just a lot of misconception of the advantages of 220V tools.
                              Loring in Katy, TX USA
                              If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                              BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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