Home Theater Speakers. Built, but not yet finished.

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  • sailor55330
    Established Member
    • Jan 2010
    • 494

    #16
    Nice construction.

    Sorry to go back to the technical details, but a few questions.

    Ported cabinet it looks like. I'm no that familiar with the Drivers listed, but I'm assuming they must be designed for use with a port vs sealed enclosures. What frequency are they crossed over at? What are you driving them with.

    Again, wood is nice, but you can't listen to the wood!

    As for the acoustical sock, I'm not even sure I'd go that far. I have "socks" on my Definitive's and I hate them. They snag. I'd go with a lightweight front faceframe with material stretched over them that "snaps" on and off. If you google speaker fabric and grill snaps, they come up and would probably cost less than $50 for the whole set.

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    • gerti
      Veteran Member
      • Dec 2003
      • 2233
      • Minnetonka, MN, USA.
      • BT3100 "Frankensaw"

      #17
      Thanks for the extra details! Tough decision, I am leaning towards the veneer with a high gloss finish. You can still use "the sock" and just show off the Bubinga for special occasions ;-) Actually I'd probably go for a front face frame too, possibly attached with rare earth magnets.

      Would not mind hearing those babies when you are done!

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      • pecker
        Established Member
        • Jun 2003
        • 388
        • .

        #18
        If you decide to stick with the bubinga, 2 or 3 applications of Watco Danish Oil Finish give a really great appearance to that wood. But it will have hardly any gloss at all, so it will not act as a distraction while viewing TV.

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        • BigguyZ
          Veteran Member
          • Jul 2006
          • 1818
          • Minneapolis, MN
          • Craftsman, older type w/ cast iron top

          #19
          Originally posted by gerti
          Thanks for the extra details! Tough decision, I am leaning towards the veneer with a high gloss finish. You can still use "the sock" and just show off the Bubinga for special occasions ;-) Actually I'd probably go for a front face frame too, possibly attached with rare earth magnets.

          Would not mind hearing those babies when you are done!
          Yeah, there's not much room on the face for a frame, as the round over on the front goes just about to the edge of the woofers...

          But I do kinda like the idea of doing them up all with the bubinga and the gloss, but hiding them somehow. Then again, that area really is only the theater, so having a showpiece there is a bit of a waste.

          Gerti- you're welcome to check out the speakers anytime you want. Just PM me and I'll demo them for you.

          sailor55330- I'm sorry, but as I didn't design the speakers, I don't know the answers to your questions. All I can say is that the drivers referenced are well respected in the DIY speaker community, and the designer of the system is also well respected. I'd really put these speakers against anything I've ever heard, and I've listened to some pretty expensive speakers.


          I'm curious- if I want with a "dead flat" lacquer, and I wanted to go with a high gloss at a later time, would it be possible to just recoat with a glossy finish? My understanding is the difference is really just the surface the product leaves, not that one is cloudier than another.

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          • wardprobst
            Senior Member
            • Jan 2006
            • 681
            • Wichita Falls, TX, USA.
            • Craftsman 22811

            #20
            Flat lacquer has flakes of material that break up the way light reflects off of the surface of the object coated. You would be better off applying gloss first then if it's too glossy, apply semi-gloss or flat. It's always easier to tone down gloss than to bring up flat. Been there, done that, got the T-shirt.
            DP
            www.wardprobst.com

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