New Blade for my BT3000

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  • inkslinger
    Forum Newbie
    • Feb 2014
    • 36

    New Blade for my BT3000

    Some thing to cut Ply,wood 2x4,2x6 and fine cuts without splitting 1/4 inch hard wood like maple or moldings and also planning on doing a deck with composite wood because I don't have a miter saw yet .
    Was looking at 60t then I notice like 5 different brands what the heck! How do know witch better than the other there all made out of steel right? some painted ,coated,different teeth and the price range from $10-$60. What will be good and last a long time?
    Last edited by inkslinger; 02-27-2014, 12:40 AM.
  • LCHIEN
    Internet Fact Checker
    • Dec 2002
    • 20920
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #2
    you're asking a lot from one blade.
    Specialized blades work best for specific cuts but the cost can be high and the trouble of changing them all the time is a pain.
    General purpose blades are a compromise to do well but not optimally at all - laminates (incl plywood). fine cross cuts and fine rip cuts.
    Of course within each category of blade there are good blades and bad blades, cheap and expensive. So a good all purpose blade might do better than cheap speacialty blades.

    This is just a generalization but
    1 you get what you pay for mostly
    2 higher tooth counts (60-80 for 10" blades) give smoother cuts on laminates and drosscuts
    3 lower tooth counts (24 tooth in a 10") cut more efficiently in rips
    4. general purpose Combination blades are available in 40, 50 and 30 tooth configurations
    5. within each grouping there are tooth configurations - hook angle and ATB, FTG, etc tips - that make a huge difference in cutting performance and relative life.
    6 there are other factors such as tooth hardness that trade off life for durability and tooth size that trade off the cost vs how many times you can resharpen. And kerf (thickness of the cut)

    And of course if you use a good blade a lot and don't sharpen it its performance will got o crap.

    there's a lot of posts here discussing blade choices.
    Use the search intelligently. I persoanlly think the blade expert here who I believe in is user Knottscott.

    try these posts for starters:
    This forum is for discussions about any and all power tools. Whether you are looking to buy a new tool or you have a question about the usage of a tool, this is the place to be!


    see post 6 in this thread:
    This forum is the place to ask questions about getting started in woodworking. Topics like "what tools should I buy" and "what is the best project for a new woodworker" belong here. The phrase "this may be a stupid question" is not allowed here as there are no stupid questions.
    Last edited by LCHIEN; 02-27-2014, 01:00 AM.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

    Comment

    • Knottscott
      Veteran Member
      • Dec 2004
      • 3815
      • Rochester, NY.
      • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

      #3
      They are all made of steel, but there's a significant difference in the quality of the steel, how it's tensioned, the anti-vibration techniques used, the carbide quality, how the carbide is sharpened, the tooth design, and overall precision of the manufacturing....for that reason, I'd stick with blades from Infinity, Forrest, Freud, Irwin Marples, CMT, Tenryu, Ridge Carbide, Amana, Leitz, Systimatic, or other known high quality manufacturers. You do tend to get what you pay for, bu there are bargains to be had if you search....closeouts, sales, etc, but I've never regretted acquiring top shelf cutters even if I paid top dollar.

      That is a lot to ask of one blade if you want it to do a really good job all those cuts. All blades will have some weaknesses and some strengths depending on their particular parameters. The blades that do well in thick materials (generally lower tooth count blades) will leave a rougher cut. The blades that leave cleaner cuts (generally higher tooth blades) will tend to leave a smoother cut, but will have higher resistance, and are more prone to burning...especially in thicker materials like 2x6s. Some of the better 40T general purpose blades like the Super General, Fusion, or WWII will tend to do quite well in most cuts until you get into thicker ripping, in which case, it's a good idea to pick up something like a 24T thin kerf ripper for < $30......if you do add a rip blade blade to your arsenal, IMO you'd be better off grabbing a 60T blade like the Infinity 010-060, Freud LU88, Freud Diablo D1060X, Irwin Marples 60T, or similar CMT 60T, instead of a 40T general purpose blade.

      The ABCs of Picking Saw Blades
      Current Saw Blade Bargains
      Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

      Comment

      • Condoman44
        Established Member
        • Nov 2013
        • 178
        • CT near Norwich
        • Ryobi BT3000

        #4
        I just bought this one (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I like a lot.

        I use this only for cutting ply or poplar when making cabinets.

        I have a separate blade for ripping and another for laminates and plastics.

        Comment

        • durango dude
          Senior Member
          • Mar 2011
          • 934
          • a thousand or so feet above insanity
          • 50s vintage Craftsman Contractor Saw

          #5
          I use my Freud 10/40 blade for most work.

          I have a Freud/Diablo crosscut blade with higher tooth count that I keep for when I need it.

          So my initial reaction is that you're asking a bit much from a single blade. What are you doing, though ---woodworking or construction? If it's the later, an all purpose blade might be good enough

          I just saw this blade - which might help with what you're doing:

          Comment

          • vaking
            Veteran Member
            • Apr 2005
            • 1428
            • Montclair, NJ, USA.
            • Ryobi BT3100-1

            #6
            You got plenty of excellent advice about blades. I just want to suggest to think about projects you do and match that to a blade selection.
            Construction dimensional lumber (2x4, 2x6) is usually softwood, pine or fir. This type of wood is usually oily, full of sap and it gums up a blade. Composite decking and pressure treated lumber are very harsh on blades and quality of cut is usually less important in this material (you don't need a perfect glue line for a deck), so for construction projects I don't use top level expensive blades even though I have some. On the other hand - it is a shame to look at the tear out when you are cutting sheets of cabinet grade plywood at $50+ a sheet. So for this material I only use Freud 80 tooth plywood blade. Here the cost of the material you don't ruin will quickly offset the cost of a blade. Maple moldings are not cheap either, so this also calls for high quality crosscut blade.
            In my collection I have high quality thin kerf ripper (24T), high quality plywood blade and high quality crosscut blade (80 and 60 teeth respectively). General purpose blades (40 - 50 teeth) that I have are still decent but not premium (Oldham woodworker series on clearance). When you are using general purpose blade you are already compromising, so why pay top dollar for that?
            A rip blade with FTG and relatively high tooth count for a rip blade makes a good joinery blade. I have a Black & Decker Piranha blade made in UK with 32 FTG teeth for this purpose and this blade is my mostly used blade on BT3.
            Alex V

            Comment

            • LCHIEN
              Internet Fact Checker
              • Dec 2002
              • 20920
              • Katy, TX, USA.
              • BT3000 vintage 1999

              #7
              if you are doing semi-serious fine woodworking, her's what I would do:
              Put an 80T blade like a Freud into my miter saw... $50 for crosscuts
              Put a Forrest WWII thin kerf on the table saw for most work $105
              Keep a Freud or other 24T thin kerf for deep and long rips for use on the table saw... $30 or less

              Don't know if that is in your budget or plans...
              Loring in Katy, TX USA
              If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
              BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

              Comment

              • inkslinger
                Forum Newbie
                • Feb 2014
                • 36

                #8
                Whew, thanks for reply s . Right now I'm looking for Ply wood cutting maybe 2x4 , I do need to get my own miter saw , I replace my friends blade with a Diablo to cut hard wood flooring on the miter saw I borrowed . My table saw I have now has a old blade on it and will need to be change soon. So I been looking at ether a Marples 10-in 50-Tooth Circular Saw Blade or a DEWALT Construction 10-in Segmented Circular Saw Blade . So your saying to have more than 1 blade to do different jobs so it's best to have a couple of Replacement Blade Arbors for spares for all these blades.

                Comment

                • unclecritic
                  Forum Newbie
                  • Feb 2008
                  • 99
                  • Michigan
                  • Craftsman 21829, (2) bt-3100's

                  #9
                  Another point to consider is whether or not the kerf of the new blade will work with you spillter/blade guard if you are using it. Thin kerf blades might jam on the splitter. Scary situation

                  Also, a thing to consider is that there is no reason why you cant use a less expensive 7 1/4" circ saw blade on
                  your table saw. This is actually my frequent setup. Diablo blades are quite inexpensive in the 7 1/4" size and work quite well IMHO. You sacrifice depth of cut, and tooth speed, but i personally have a 10" marples rip blade that ive been happy with if i need depth, guard, or above table dustcollection.

                  Comment

                  • Knottscott
                    Veteran Member
                    • Dec 2004
                    • 3815
                    • Rochester, NY.
                    • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

                    #10
                    The stock blade on the BT was 3/32" thin kerf, so the riving knife will handle a typical TK blade. It's the 7-1/4" that are often thinner and are more likely to cause the work piece to bind on the riving knife....that's the biggest draw back of using that size blade.

                    The Marples blades get a lot of favorable comments.
                    Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

                    Comment

                    • lrr
                      Established Member
                      • Apr 2006
                      • 380
                      • Fort Collins, Colorado
                      • Ryobi BT-3100

                      #11
                      Originally posted by unclecritic
                      Another point to consider is whether or not the kerf of the new blade will work with you spillter/blade guard if you are using it. Thin kerf blades might jam on the splitter. Scary situation

                      Also, a thing to consider is that there is no reason why you cant use a less expensive 7 1/4" circ saw blade on
                      your table saw. This is actually my frequent setup. Diablo blades are quite inexpensive in the 7 1/4" size and work quite well IMHO. You sacrifice depth of cut, and tooth speed, but i personally have a 10" marples rip blade that ive been happy with if i need depth, guard, or above table dustcollection.
                      I have been considering this. I have a Forrest Woodworker II on my BT3100 and only use it for ripping -- but only the nice hardwoods I cut up. Anything else and I'll put my combo blade back on. However, I turn pens, and cut up my own blanks. I want a very thin blade to minimize waste. The wood I cut up is typically 3/4" or a little thicker, so a thin 7-1/4" blade would make sense.
                      Lee

                      Comment

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