Cutting groove under countertop

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  • atgcpaul
    Veteran Member
    • Aug 2003
    • 4055
    • Maryland
    • Grizzly 1023SLX

    #16
    How about this?

    Browse our full range of products from dressing tables to complete modern kitchens. Click here to find the right IKEA product for you. Browse online and in-store today!

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    • tfischer
      Veteran Member
      • Jul 2003
      • 2343
      • Plymouth (Minneapolis), MN, USA.
      • BT3100

      #17
      Originally posted by gerti
      Normally I'd agree with you, Tim. The kitchen itself has great light, almost all of it LED. The under-cabinet lighting around the sink is even controlled by brightness and motion sensors. The drawers in question are under the far side of the peninsula (outside the kitchen) and see unexpected frequent use. Adding over-head light to that location would clash with the already existing overhead light just inches away. That light is perfectly located for the peninsula an the drawers on the other side.

      Hence the somewhat odd location for the light.
      Gotcha. Carry on

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      • gerti
        Veteran Member
        • Dec 2003
        • 2233
        • Minnetonka, MN, USA.
        • BT3100 "Frankensaw"

        #18
        Originally posted by LCHIEN
        Why recess the lights at all?
        There is very little clearance between the top of the drawer fronts and the countertop. That being said I think it might just be enough, and the fronts could be adjusted down a smidgen as well. I will need to experiment.

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        • gerti
          Veteran Member
          • Dec 2003
          • 2233
          • Minnetonka, MN, USA.
          • BT3100 "Frankensaw"

          #19
          Alright, there was enough room without having to cut any grooves. I used 5 magnetic switches (cheap ones, 10 for $10 or so from eBay), self adhesive, and connected them in series. You can spot one in the back in the drawer. I used some small rare earth magnets to trigger them, I could just stick those magnets to the drawer sides (smaller than the magnets that came with the switches).

          Because of the "normally open" switches (the circuit is interrupted when you open a drawer or door) I needed some electronics, and while I was at it I tossed in soft start etc. Wife is happy!

          Thanks everybody for all the tips! (And yes, as "All Thumbs" suggested the harsh light shows any dirt and dust on the surfaces, but the light is only on briefly and while it is you concentrate on the drawer contents).

          Comment

          • tfischer
            Veteran Member
            • Jul 2003
            • 2343
            • Plymouth (Minneapolis), MN, USA.
            • BT3100

            #20
            Nice work! Did you do the circuit yourself, or did you buy something?

            Comment

            • gerti
              Veteran Member
              • Dec 2003
              • 2233
              • Minnetonka, MN, USA.
              • BT3100 "Frankensaw"

              #21
              Originally posted by tfischer
              Nice work! Did you do the circuit yourself, or did you buy something?
              It's my own design. Sort of a universal home automation board, with a fairly powerful (albeit slow) radio, an Atmel ATMega uC and 3 x 12V PWM circuitry for LEDs. The board also has a number of analog and digital I/Os, and the radio protocol uses a rolling code and AES128 encryption. I got a number of those units around the house, part of a DIY home automation system.

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