Curved shelf

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • lum747
    Forum Newbie
    • Mar 2013
    • 25
    • huntsville texas
    • ryobi bt3000

    Curved shelf

    I am going to make a curved shelf and wonder if anyone has a idea how to build a jig to cut the curve, I tried cutting out a template with my scroll saw but couldn't get the curve prefect,like I could with my plunge router ,the shelves,will be made of oak 6x24x1 and the curve will go from 6 inches in the center to 0 at the ends, any suggestions? Shelves 6 inched deep and 24inches long, need to make 8 shelves
  • cabinetman
    Gone but not Forgotten RIP
    • Jun 2006
    • 15218
    • So. Florida
    • Delta

    #2
    Make a template from some substrate, like MDF. Sand it to be smooth. Cut the pieces within a ¼" from the line of the template with a jig saw. Then double side tape or hot glue the template to the subject piece and use a flush trim router bit.

    .

    Comment

    • cabinetman
      Gone but not Forgotten RIP
      • Jun 2006
      • 15218
      • So. Florida
      • Delta

      #3
      If your problem is how to get a near perfect curve, draw out half the curve on the template. You can do this with marking the lengths and the rise, and use a thin piece of plywood, or Masonite and bend it to intersect the two points. Then cut it out as done in the above post. Place the template on the subject piece and draw the half, and then flip the template to draw the other half. Once you cut/rout the first one, you have a new template for a complete curve.

      .

      Comment

      • JimD
        Veteran Member
        • Feb 2003
        • 4187
        • Lexington, SC.

        #4
        I have also cut shelves with a plunge router. You can make a base plate with a long pivot attached and use a 1/4 inch bit to make the cut. Making the pattern this way and then using a flush trim bit as C'man suggests is more practical than cutting all the shelves this way.

        Comment

        • JR
          The Full Monte
          • Feb 2004
          • 5633
          • Eugene, OR
          • BT3000

          #5
          Originally posted by cabinetman
          Make a template from some substrate, like MDF. Sand it to be smooth. Cut the pieces within a ¼" from the line of the template with a jig saw. Then double side tape or hot glue the template to the subject piece and use a flush trim router bit.
          +1. This probably how I'd do it.
          JR

          Comment

          • durango dude
            Senior Member
            • Mar 2011
            • 934
            • a thousand or so feet above insanity
            • 50s vintage Craftsman Contractor Saw

            #6
            I don't have a router table ---- so here's how I cut curves:

            a) find a bucket or can with an appropriate radius
            I've used small stain cans --- all the way up to a 5 gallon HD bucket.
            Haven't used a 50 gallon drum, yet. Might also try a french curve set

            b) Using chalk (easier to erase mistakes) - trace curve

            c) Assess curve for aesthetics.......

            d) If I like it --- proceed --- if I don't -- erase and repeat

            e) Cut along lines with 1/4" band saw blade (I use a skip tooth 4TPI)

            I've tried cutting with a scroll saw ---- that option stinks. My blade doesn't like oak, much. I save my scroll saw for making signs with the router.

            If I didn't have a band saw - I think a jig saw can do the job - with a steady hand. I think I'd want a belt sander to smooth the curve out, though.

            Comment

            • MBG
              Senior Member
              • Apr 2003
              • 945
              • Chicago, Illinois.
              • Craftsman 21829

              #7
              I have done this a few times. I have an inexpensive 2-D CAD program called DeltaCad. You use the drawing plans to develop your curve and then there is an option to print it out full size. I even made arched top cabinet door profiles this way and large archways as room dividers (maybe 30' radius). Like said above use hardboard to make a template. Cut close on the BS and smooth with sanding. The cut the wood close on the BS and use a flush trim bit with bearing to finish.

              Mike

              Comment

              • pelligrini
                Veteran Member
                • Apr 2007
                • 4217
                • Fort Worth, TX
                • Craftsman 21829

                #8
                Forming a template from some ply or mdf scrap would be best. I would lay the template down and mark all the shelves and remove much of the waste with a jigsaw. Then I would fasten the template to my shelves with double sided tape, or my new pin nailer, and take it to the router table with a flush trim or pattern bit.

                BTW, An arc segment with a 24" chord and a 6" width would have a radius of 1'-3" according to my Autocad
                Last edited by pelligrini; 07-17-2013, 05:05 PM.
                Erik

                Comment

                • lum747
                  Forum Newbie
                  • Mar 2013
                  • 25
                  • huntsville texas
                  • ryobi bt3000

                  #9
                  Curved shelf

                  I made a template and used double sided tape taped and clamped it to the work piece 6x24x1 red oak, and tried to cut around the template with my plunge router using a 1/4 inch slot bit but it took a long time to cut through the 3/4 inch oak, is there a better router bit to use doing it this way?, I would prefer not to have to cut them out on my scroll saw, then use the router

                  Comment

                  • cabinetman
                    Gone but not Forgotten RIP
                    • Jun 2006
                    • 15218
                    • So. Florida
                    • Delta

                    #10
                    Originally posted by lum747
                    I made a template and used double sided tape taped and clamped it to the work piece 6x24x1 red oak, and tried to cut around the template with my plunge router using a 1/4 inch slot bit but it took a long time to cut through the 3/4 inch oak, is there a better router bit to use doing it this way?, I would prefer not to have to cut them out on my scroll saw, then use the router
                    Refer to Post #2.

                    .

                    Comment

                    • pelligrini
                      Veteran Member
                      • Apr 2007
                      • 4217
                      • Fort Worth, TX
                      • Craftsman 21829

                      #11
                      Do you have a jigsaw or bandsaw? I've even done roughing cuts with my dubby sled and my tablesaw.
                      Erik

                      Comment

                      • LCHIEN
                        Internet Fact Checker
                        • Dec 2002
                        • 20914
                        • Katy, TX, USA.
                        • BT3000 vintage 1999

                        #12
                        you gotta rough cut it to size, about 1/4" as suggested with a band saw or jig saw. Probably too laborious with a scrollsaw. then router it. otherwise it will be too much work ploughing out that much wood with the router.
                        Loring in Katy, TX USA
                        If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                        BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                        Comment

                        • cabinetman
                          Gone but not Forgotten RIP
                          • Jun 2006
                          • 15218
                          • So. Florida
                          • Delta

                          #13
                          Depending on the size of the piece, and the curves, a bandsaw may not accommodate the piece. May not be enough room to the column to manipulate it.

                          .

                          Comment

                          • greenacres2
                            Senior Member
                            • Dec 2011
                            • 633
                            • La Porte, IN
                            • Ryobi BT3000

                            #14
                            Back when my son rode freestyle BMX (specializing in "vert" ramps and ER visits!!), I got to see a lot of ramp building. The tool of choice for most of the best builders was a 7 1/4" circular saw. For a 7' or 8' radius, the mark was made with string and pencil, saw set to exact depth of cut, and i'd watch kids with baggy pants and dreadlocks cut the curve smooth as can be.

                            I think back on those days, and it sure seems like I could do the same thing now, but I outsmart myself with routers, bandsaws, jigsaw, and sander. What you're talking about is a shorter cut, but i'm guessing a 5' or 6' radius--i''m wondering if a 6" circular saw might get it close faster. Then the trim router or sander to finish?

                            I've not tried it, but I've seen it...

                            earl

                            Comment

                            • pelligrini
                              Veteran Member
                              • Apr 2007
                              • 4217
                              • Fort Worth, TX
                              • Craftsman 21829

                              #15
                              Yea, eyeballing a circular saw or using a sawboard and circular saw doing multiple cuts to rough it out.

                              A 1/4" straight bit in 3/4" oak probably wasn't the best choice either.
                              Erik

                              Comment

                              Working...