what's the best option (not woodworking topic)

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • woodturner
    Veteran Member
    • Jun 2008
    • 2047
    • Western Pennsylvania
    • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

    #16
    Originally posted by mpc
    If you already have some Ryobi 18volt stuff, the $99 Ryobi impact driver (200 foot-lbs) is pretty handy.
    Does it seem like the Ryobi really generates 200 ft-lbs? I have a Dewalt corded model, it's supposed to generate something in that range, but won't loosen a lug night tightened to 65 ft-lbs. Of course, it is an older model, so there likely have been improvements.

    Many, if not most, air tools are rated for 90psi maximum... so a 120 psi compressor is sufficient. Lately the trend is to higher PSI - like 150 or 175 psi... but not so many CFMs which I find rather pointless.
    I think the advantage of higher pressure is that it "stores more air" so a given CFM at lower pressure can be sustained longer. The difference between the 33 gal 165 psi compressor linked earlier and my older 120 psi compressor is quite noticeable.
    --------------------------------------------------
    Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

    Comment

    • woodturner
      Veteran Member
      • Jun 2008
      • 2047
      • Western Pennsylvania
      • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

      #17
      Originally posted by Black wallnut
      Also not to continue an argument but my experience with sockets and rusted fasteners comes from my years working on fertilizer machinery. 6 point worked better and were less likely to round off the corners than 12 point however I should also mention that I was using Snap-on or Mac mostly which both are tight tolerance and touch the fasteners away from the corners.
      I think that is one of those "religious argument topics" - people have reached their own conclusions based on their own experience and aren't likely to change their minds, and that is OK in my opinion. Either one is fine, really, so it's not a huge deal either way.

      If anyone is curious, a number of manufacturers and labs have conducted tests that show essentially no difference. IIRC, SnapOn was one of the first who did the testing, in response to questions raised about their 12 point impact sockets.
      --------------------------------------------------
      Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

      Comment

      • mpc
        Senior Member
        • Feb 2005
        • 979
        • Cypress, CA, USA.
        • BT3000 orig 13amp model

        #18
        Originally posted by woodturner
        Does it seem like the Ryobi really generates 200 ft-lbs? I have a Dewalt corded model, it's supposed to generate something in that range, but won't loosen a lug night tightened to 65 ft-lbs. Of course, it is an older model, so there likely have been improvements.
        I think so. I also have a set of Ridgid cordless tools with an impact driver that uses the hex shank bits, it's rating is something like 75 ft-lbs. It's just strong enough to remove lug nuts though sometimes it takes a few seconds to get them started. The Ryobi twirls them off instantly. I've used the Ryobi on other beefy car bolts and it hasn't struggled yet. I'm trying to remember the biggest challenge I've given it... but nothing immediately comes to mind. Flywheel bolts on my Starion probably; those are torqued to 100 ft-lbs on installation and who knows what torque it takes to remove them years later - with Loctite too. The crank pulley bolt is also torqued pretty high and didn't challenge the Ryobi. So the Ryobi can handle well into the 100s at least. It comes with an adapter to drive 1/4 hex bits too. Used it a couple days ago to help a friend hang a flat-screen TV mount, driving lag bolts. Made that job trivially easy. Another nice thing about impact drivers, compared to trying to use a drill to drive fasteners, is the almost complete lack of reaction torque trying to break your wrists. Far safer in my opinion.

        As Black wallnut noted, often there isn't room for big tools around brakes. With front brakes you at least have the option of turning the steering wheel to aim the wheel hub a bit giving you a chance to get a breaker bar in there. Often though I end up hanging a box-end wrench on a tight fastener and whacking the other end of the wrench with a block of wood to break things free. A name-brand wrench with a good fit on the bolts/nuts is essential for that technique... and one with a good guarantee since this is somewhat abusive to the tool. If you try this... protect your face as the wrench sometimes does aerobatics.

        mpc

        Comment

        • capncarl
          Veteran Member
          • Jan 2007
          • 3564
          • Leesburg Georgia USA
          • SawStop CTS

          #19
          I gained a new respect for battery impact drivers after observing them being used at the USMC repair depot. The 18v 1/2" drive Dewalt Impact drivers outnumber air impacts by 10 to 1. These are serious tools capable of handling about anything you can find. At about $100 for the bare tool any of the comparable impacts are a good addition to the shop, and a lot cheaper that a compressor, hose and air impact.
          Capncarl

          Comment

          • Cochese
            Veteran Member
            • Jun 2010
            • 1988

            #20
            There's times for breaker bars, if you have room. Sometimes you'll need quite the long bar to get the required amount of leverage. And if your spring is in the arc, not going to help. A small sledge and a manual impact driver can do a lot of damage for a very small amount of money. Best of all worlds is to have each option available.

            Also, there isn't one size for impact guns. I have a very compact one that will fit almost anywhere.
            I have a little blog about my shop

            Comment

            • Zenaca
              Established Member
              • Nov 2006
              • 116
              • Idaho

              #21
              I have the harbour freight 1/2 in. electric impact and use it to change wheels and tires on all my vehicles also for mechanical stuff too.

              Been a good tool i have used the crap out of it in the last 7 years and has always done the job for me, i recently bought one for my brother cause he was always dragging out his little compressor to change tires and had to wait alot for the thing to catch up with enough air to run his air impact, he loves the new electric one


              They have 3 models #45252 #68099 and #69606 all appear to be the same specs just look diffrent. All have 230 ft lbs torque.

              They also have an 18v cordless #60380 if you prefer cordless

              Comment

              • JimD
                Veteran Member
                • Feb 2003
                • 4187
                • Lexington, SC.

                #22
                I have the HF cordless 1/2 impact and used it today and yesterday. I haven't charged the battery for a couple months but it works each time I try it. Yesterday it was removing a wheel on the SUV. I tightened it with a star wrench so it wasn't over tight and the HF did it easily. My son got it for me when we were replacing floats on the dock. It did most of the 5/16 lags on one battery (no pilot hole). Today I was just tightening a couple bolts to hang a new gate. Nice tool.

                I have air tools but my pneumatic (1/2) is too weak to do much work. I think all woodworkers need a compressor but when I have a battery operated tool I usually use it, they are just more convenient. I used my Ryobi brad nailer today to redo an access door to my crawl space. Works great.

                Comment

                • JR
                  The Full Monte
                  • Feb 2004
                  • 5633
                  • Eugene, OR
                  • BT3000

                  #23
                  Here's my take:

                  You have slave labor for this project. You don't need new tools, you need a laser pointer. How will he ever learn the value of power tools if he hasn't bashed his knuckles?

                  Unless, of course, you're harboring a secret need for these tools. In which case you might think about starting with manual tools. After the appropriate lessons are learned a father/son trip to Sears, followed by lunch over which there is a detailed analysis of the receipt, might be in order.

                  Just me 2c.
                  JR

                  Comment

                  • durango dude
                    Senior Member
                    • Mar 2011
                    • 934
                    • a thousand or so feet above insanity
                    • 50s vintage Craftsman Contractor Saw

                    #24
                    well folks -

                    I stopped by our tool rental shop, and rented a Milwaukee electric impact wrench for the weekend.

                    Naturally, it rained all weekend, so I did not get to use it until this evening!

                    My assessment ----

                    Yeah - it saved a little time with the tires. It was easier to get the shocks off with a ratchet. I broke out my 18 inch bar ------ it got the job done. I suspect my breaker bar delivers more ft lbs with me leaning on it than the impact wrench (manual says maximum 300 ft lbs). I forget my physics lessons - but I suspect a 18" ratchet with me on it is about the same (I'm 220 lbs).

                    The slave labor did pretty well ------ he likes working on cars.

                    Comment

                    Working...