BT3000 problems

[Les]

Sad shims

Mark,

Thanks for your quick response. I do still have the shims, but the tabs have sheared off and one shim is a bit deformed. I did look at the support option, but wasn't confident in my ability to tap the required holes (I am definitely a woodworker rather than a metalworker!). The link referencing plastic shim supports is broken, so I couldn't investigate that.

As for the helicoil, I must admit that I am not clear on how this is related to the shim problem. Does it involve tearing apart more of the saw? I would love to find the quickest/cheapest/longest lasting repair but I imagine those are mutually exclusive! Any thoughts on the slick tape?

Les

[Black wallnut]

Les the helicoil repair is for a completely different issue.

I do not think there is room for slick tape. Your best bet is to find replacement shims.

[Jpleech]

Wanted to update everyone on the condition of my saw since my last post. As others have suggested, I decided to purchase a new motor bracket since I figured it would be easier and cheaper than installing a helicoil. When the part arrived, however, it became quickly apparent that the bracket would not fit. Story is I have a 13amp motor as opposed to a 15 amp motor. The bracket for the 13 amp motor is no longer available, but they were willing to sell me a new motor assembly (presumably with the same motor bracket that is no longer available) for the low price of $280. Uh, no thanks. I then ordered the helicoil kit and drill bit and installed it onto the old bracket. Following directions found here it was surprisingly easy. I installed a new mounting bracket and upgraded shims and have reassembled the entire blade mechanism. It is incredibly stiff. I plan on loosening the 4 mounting screws a 1/4 turn to see if that is the problem.

Thanks to all who have offered suggestions. I'll keep you posted as it goes

Jpleech

[Jpleech]

Well here we go again. Loosened the screws that hold the blade mechanism together almost a full turn before it would raise and lower. It was still a tad stiff when I did this too. I lubed all the stays under the saw, ran it up and down a couple of times, tightened the screws and there is no improvement. Any ideas what I might have done wrong?

Thanks,
Jpleech

[Black wallnut]

Did you over-tighten the nut that holds the gear on the bottom of the elevation screw?

[capncarl]

Did you run the threaded rod in the motor to verify that it was a good thread before re-assembling the saw? It should turn easily by fingers, if not it will only bind worse when assembled. You might chase the threads with a sacrificial bolt with the same threads to kinda set the threads in the helicoil. If it binds or gets tight you can twist it around and try to get it the helicoil seated better. I wouldn't use a tap because if it binds you might not get it out without tearing the helicoil up.
capncarl

[Jpleech]

Hate to resurrect this thread, but after getting the saw up and running again, I've encountered a new problem. The blade appears to have developed a wobble. it's not tremendous but when the blade slows to a halt it is noticeable. That and when making a cross cut both the start and end of the cut have a distinct scallop to them. Any ideas as to what I did when I reassembled the saw? Is there a fix?

On a slightly unrelated note, what do you consider to be square? In other words, over a 1 foot board is being out of square a 64th good enough or is that too much slop. I'm looking to build a dovetail box using a jig and want to make sure I'm not messing up before I cut the dovetails.

Thanks,,
JP

[tfischer]

Hate to resurrect this thread, but after getting the saw up and running again, I've encountered a new problem. The blade appears to have developed a wobble. it's not tremendous but when the blade slows to a halt it is noticeable. That and when making a cross cut both the start and end of the cut have a distinct scallop to them. Any ideas as to what I did when I reassembled the saw? Is there a fix?

First thing would be to determine if it's the blade. Try another one, or if you only have one, it's a good time to pick up that spare you always wanted

[Bill in Buena Park]

Might also want to check that there's nothing trapped between the blade and the arbor shoulder, which might cause the blade to be improperly seated and wobble.

[congorethy]

Bt300 shim related get around

Living with BT3000 or BT3100 table saw *Good and Bad!

If you have the BT3000 table saw you will eventually have head aches with it. It's a good saw for making cabinets. Ways to fix shim problem.
1. Straighten the bent ends and Epoxy the shims in. Don't use the 5 minute useless epoxy or the clear stuff. You must assemble it before the Epoxy dries. I'd epoxy the rear ones also, because they keep falling out when assembling.
I use long pry bar with flatten 1" wide blade and pry top and bottom to remove holder.
2. Making the angle brackets on bottom should work, but make sure the angle does not touch the rail as that may wear your saw out. Use a filler gauge to about .004 gap.
3. Buy the bt3100 bracket and shims. Holder is milled out to about .010 for the thicker shims-old ones are about .003 thick.
My saw lasted about 6 months before the shim problem in 2000. I've had my saw in storage for 10 years and using it now to make cabinets.
1st the motor would not start with switch, so I turned blade with a stick and it took off. (brush armature communicator corrosion)
It wasn't long before I noticed it was very hard to raise the blade. Eventually I saw one of the shims fell down. I then remembered it happed before.
The pin behind the raising wheel keeps slipping making you only get a half turn or it starts to click indicating it has slipped. Put your head under with safely glasses on (unless you like sawdust in your eyes) and use a screw driver to even the space on the shaft and spring. Make sure the spring is behind the pin or you will not be able to raise the blade.
If all fails and the up-down mechanism is still getting stuck.
1.Get a 5 gallon bucket.
2. 9/16 socket with 9" extension on it.
Sit on bucket and reach just to right in front of blade( at a 45 degree it will be left of blade at a 45) and there is a acorn type nut (with plastic locknut) and turn about 1/8 turn or more while pushing in the handle and the handle should pop in. This works every time which connects to screw shaft to raise the blade. I use right hand holding socket to find it and the left hand holding the ratchet handle. If it takes 2 hands to turn up or down, you should not keep on using it till you fix the shim problem. For a while I had to raise and lower blade using the socket wrench.
What jams the machine is the holder with the shims rocks to one side and when you use the socket it rocks it the other way giving it enough gape to get unstuck.
I had mine working perfect until I uses a 1 blade wobble dado blade (2 bladed dado give half the vibration)for a minute which vibrated something or wore something a hair. My machine sometimes sticks every time I want to raise the blade now and even with the 3100 new shims. No wonder owners finally sell the machine or sell by parts. I'm sure a lot of owners would have kept the machine if they only knew a few good tricks to get by on it.

Other shop tricks
1. I bought the 41 inch extension and use it mostly for a work bench. I bought the miter rails that fit to the left of blade and bought a old rusty Sears miter for the rails 17" long made of steel for $3 at a garage sale. It must fit thickness of slot. Most miter slides are cheap aluminum ones not even thick enough and only about 9" long(worthless). I use the Sears small 17" miter and very seldom use the sled anymore (pain in the ass). You must have a good 2 foot square to check the cuts at least once a day. The sled is a must on large sheets of plyboard, something other table saws can't do. Replace attachment bolts on extension table or out feed table with Lowes round T-bolt 5/15 and add hand knob nut on end so you can move it around or quick take off.(file or grind both ends of t bolt to fit or slide in rail slots.)
2. Bottom line Stick to cast iron for shop work unless you like working on machinery more than doing you job, or a good way to get fired for being too slow on production. Most of cast iron shop machinery is 3 phase, so may have to make your own 3 phase by buying a 3 phase motor 1/3 larger than largest single Hp motor and use a large 2phase motor to jump start the 3 phase motor with 2 wires hooked to the 2 house 220 lines. The 3 phase motor will be happy to be running again give the 3rd hot line for free.
3. I still use a 1946 jointer with babbet bearings. Hay if it's not broke, don't fix it. Unfortunately most newer machinery have a lot of plastic which doesn't hold up.
4. Stay away from orange China plastic belts. I was given a old delta planer with a melted orange one. I had brand new hand planners that the orange belts only lasted 5 minutes. I bought some new belts and when I turned the planer on they flew apart. I'm going to buy a black rubber belt with longer life span. It takes a long time to change some belts.
5. Sanding belts only have an expected life of 2 years, so don't buy new old stock and find out they may only last a second before the tape popes off.
6. 10" diamond blade/ cut out 9" diameter peal and stick sandpaper 60 or 120 grit for a fast sander. Use the blade to sharpen your dull carbide tip blades, Google how to make jig.
7. Mark tight and loose under 0 face plate somewhere where you stop guessing the reverse saw blade nut. Only snug nut- no 16# bear downs. I permanently remove all but far 3 screws on blade cover and use top to start reverse blade nut. 4-5 min dado set change.
8. Dado blades set: make shims out of cereal box cardboard, 3" diameter which is .020 or same thickness as steel ones. 2 cardboard between each blade or chipper is max with no wood left behind. Max is 1 3/32" or less with 13/16 dado set. Good as Router. Any slithers left use peace of wood to remove. 2 -7 1/4 skill saw blades and 2-3 cardboard shims will make a dado for lauan or oak venire sheets. under 1/4 inch. Don't forget a back up scrap to stop tear out on crosscuts.
9. 8 1/4 or 10" thin kerf blade for ripping heavy treated wood-increases your HP close to 2x. also less chance of burning oak.
10. Cut 1/16 slot in a 4' small board to lay against fence to cut Formica.

[Black wallnut]

FWIW I have had no issues since installing the ship supports mentioned in my shim article. Periodic cleaning and lubing with a dry lube in evaporative carrier, I use lock-eze and also a 3M product, has kept mine working smoothly. AFAIK Stytooner has had years of use with his by lubing with candle wax. The vast majority of users never had a shim problem anyway.

JP I would not be happy with a 64th inch gap over a foot.