Tips for Popcorn ceiling removal?

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • JimD
    Veteran Member
    • Feb 2003
    • 4187
    • Lexington, SC.

    Tips for Popcorn ceiling removal?

    We close on the new lake house tomorrow. The first big project will be removal of the popcorn ceiling in the great room. We plan to remove it prior to moving in so we will at least set up for it this weekend. We've never done this before so we've been talking to others at work who have done it. We plan to use a little (not big) pump up sprayer to wet it down. I also plan to get one of the special scraping knives you can mount a bag on. I'm not sure how well the bag will work but you can screw a pole into the end of it and I think that will be handy. I plan to do the lower areas (say 12 foot or less) from step ladders (I have a 6 and a 10 foot) and rent scaffolding for the really high stuff.

    First order of business will be putting dropclothes on the walls and floor. We plan to use cheap plastic ones and throw them away with the ceiling pieces in them. I hope to get the drop clothes up this weekend and maybe a little of the low ceiling (8-10 foot) scraped.

    Any tips?
  • Daryl
    Senior Member
    • May 2004
    • 831
    • .

    #2
    Here is a thread from a few years back on the subject.
    Every once in a while we have to come out of the shop and fix something on the Honey-do list. This is a place we can discuss those projects.
    Sometimes the old man passed out and left the am radio on so I got to hear the oldie songs and current event kind of things

    Comment

    • newbie2wood
      Established Member
      • Apr 2004
      • 453
      • NJ, USA.

      #3
      Asbestos were commonly used for popcorn ceiling in the past. Before you go removing it, test a small area first.

      Comment

      • atgcpaul
        Veteran Member
        • Aug 2003
        • 4055
        • Maryland
        • Grizzly 1023SLX

        #4
        The ceiling I scraped was post-asbestos use. I pretty much did what you described. I didn't buy the special bag. I just let it fall to the floor and picked it up. They scraped off in fairly large "sheets".

        Comment

        • thrytis
          Senior Member
          • May 2004
          • 552
          • Concord, NC, USA.
          • Delta Unisaw

          #5
          Providing the popcorn isn't painted, it doesn't take too much work getting it off the ceiling. I just use warm water in a garden sprayer and wide putty knife. Once the popcorn is off the work starts. You'll need to skim the joints and screws, which usually were done poorly originally because it was getting the popcorn texture.
          Eric

          Comment

          • Mr__Bill
            Veteran Member
            • May 2007
            • 2096
            • Tacoma, WA
            • BT3000

            #6
            There is a good chance you will have rusted exposed screws or nails. Hit them with a rusty metal primer first or they will bleed through.

            You will likely get scrapes through the paper, if so patch with a torn piece of brown paper bag rather than joint tape. It will blend in quicker.

            Try not to fall off of the ladder or scalding, the wife will never let you forget it!

            Bill
            on the left coast

            Comment

            • nickg
              Established Member
              • Jul 2007
              • 110
              • Marietta, Georgia
              • Ryobi BT3000

              #7
              Popcorn Removal

              I've removed popcorn from ceilings in several rooms. Not one of my favorite jobs, but it's not particularly difficult. I tried one of those removal tools with the bags, and found the bags to be way too small.

              The best way I found is to spray the ceiling with water and let it soak in for a few minutes. Use drop cloths to cover your floors before you start scraping the popcorn as this is a MESSY job. I like to use a 12" drywall 'knife'. I held a plastic trash can beneath the knife to catch as much falling popcorn as possible. I'd have to empty the can often as this stuff gets heavy quickly.

              Try not to damage the ceiling as you're scraping, but some dings are inevitable, and will require repairing with joint compound. Make sure you wipe down the ceiling to remove any sanding dust before painting, or else the paint will not adhere (voice of experience!!)
              Last edited by nickg; 10-21-2013, 07:27 AM.

              Comment

              • JimD
                Veteran Member
                • Feb 2003
                • 4187
                • Lexington, SC.

                #8
                I started a little yesterday. The popcorn has been painted but still isn't too bad. I started with about a 2x2 area and scraped a bit of paper on the drywall. I am using the special knife with the bag attached which is working pretty well but is also part of the reason for damage. You can't see what the knife is doing until you take it away. I've only done about a 2'x6' space so far. I spray, wait 1.5 minutes (2 lets it get to the drywall paper), then scrape. While I wait the 1.5 minutes I empty the bag on the scraper. The screw heads are pretty well taped underneith. I don't think I will have a lot of mudding to do. I spent less than 30 minutes on it yesterday. I did other things including replacing the pressure tank for the well. I wanted to get to the dump with the old tank and other trash before they closed. Saturday was a long day putting handrails on the house we're selling. The wife like how they came out but it didn't get any popcorn scrapped. Hopefully that one will go away in a couple weeks (we have it under contract but are arguing about what else we fix).

                Thanks for all the tips. I think my biggest issue now if finding a good way (scaffolding) to get to the highest area of the ceiling. I am doing the lowest part first which I can get to from a 6 foot step ladder. The next section I can do from a 10 foot step ladder. Then there are 3 sections I need scaffolding for. They are 16.5 feet from the floor. I know what I want to do but I need to find a source of borrowing or renting the scaffold. I also have to find a way to do the area above the stairs. I've used an extension ladder before with a 2x4 clamped to it so it can rest on the tread below. My wife doesn't love this idea but I am struggling to figure another way. Maybe scaffold on the landing (a few steps up) and a long plank to the floor? I could reach it from that if I can get a scaffold plank long enough. It would be safer.

                Jim

                Comment

                • jdon
                  Established Member
                  • Feb 2010
                  • 401
                  • Snoqualmie, Wash.
                  • BT3100

                  #9
                  Unless you have a source to borrow one from, I'd recommend biting the bullet and buying a scaffold- ~$200 for 6 ft at HD, HF, or Amazon, rather than renting. With your multi-step project- wetting, scraping, repair, priming, painting, it sounds like you're going to need scaffolding off and on for quite a while.

                  To paint our entryway I cobbled together a stairway scaffold from plywood and 2x4s- cheap, but awkward to move, and heavy (by the time I braced it enough not to feel queasy standing on it!). It worked okay, but next time I'm going straight to buying a steel scaffold.

                  For me, buying is more cost effective than renting. With my schedule, I could never devote non-stop time to complete a project like yours in a time frame to make renting cost effective. Times I've rented equipment like that (drywall hanger comes to mind), I've felt compelled to "keep going", and made mistakes that time off for rest or contemplation might have avoided.


                  I figure that I can recoup most of the differential between purchase end rental by listing on CL when I'm finished. Just my .02

                  Comment

                  • JimD
                    Veteran Member
                    • Feb 2003
                    • 4187
                    • Lexington, SC.

                    #10
                    I'd rather buy the scaffolding but I think it is better to rent it. I need two 5 or 6 foot sets, 4 end pieces, to get my feet 9-10 feet off the floor. One place we checked wants almost $160 for the setup with wheels, braces, safety rail, etc. The next place wants less than $70 for the same thing except 5 foot frames instead of 6 foot. I do not need more than 10 foot elevation and the nice thing about 5 foot frames is I know I will get 10 foot (might be 10'5" with the wheels which is really too much for me but I may have to live with it). The place with 6 foot frames couldn't tell me what height options I would have. The 5' frame place price includes the extra pieces to make a safety rail about the 10 foot height and two planks (so I get about a 4x8 work area 10 feet above the floor).

                    By contrast, the best buy option appears to be Northern Hydraulic with 6 foot frames, nicely adjustable in 2 inch increments for $170. This has wheels but not safety rails. I need two sets plus the safety rails so I am around $400 if I go that route. Versus less than $100 to rent for a week.

                    I am hoping I can scrape all this in a day (with at least a little done in advance off ladders) patch in another day and paint on the third. So one long weekend. But if it takes more time, I will take a vacation day or two to be done in a week. And if I have to, I know I can finish the two sections from ladders.

                    Looking like another moving weekend to clear out the third house. I am really tired of this and would rather scrape popcorn but if it gets the house off my mainenance list I guess I can give it another weekend. So I may not get to the popcorn in a serious way until Nov. 1. Long time to think about it and get ready. Plus do a little off ladders when I have a few minutes.

                    Comment

                    • Knottscott
                      Veteran Member
                      • Dec 2004
                      • 3815
                      • Rochester, NY.
                      • 2008 Shop Fox W1677

                      #11
                      I scraped our kitchen ceiling last winter....it's literally a pain in the neck! I laid down drop cloths, sprayed it with water/white vinegar solution, then scraped it with a wide plastic putty knife...metal is more likely to gouge. Finished with the RAS before painting. It's not a pleasant task, so give yourself time. My wife came home from work one day before I had finished cleaning up, and made the mistake of commenting about the scrapings all over....I admit she usually rules the roost around here, but on this day I reminded her that I outweigh her by 110#, and suggested she not push it right now. (a rare battle one in a loosing war though!)
                      Happiness is sort of like wetting your pants....everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.

                      Comment

                      • JimD
                        Veteran Member
                        • Feb 2003
                        • 4187
                        • Lexington, SC.

                        #12
                        I finished the GR ceiling over the previous weekend - a three day. I rented scaffolding on Friday morning and getting it and getting it set up took most of Friday morning. I had the popcorn down a little after lunch Saturday. Patching up the places I tore to drywall a little, sanding the patches and painting most of it took the rest of Saturday and Sunday afternoon. I did not work late any night. I've had stiches a couple times already this year and both times were at the end of a long day when I was tired. My wife did not want me on scaffold 10 feet off the floor when I was tired.

                        I used the scraper with a bag attached to do most of it which minimizes the mess. You still have to do the edges with a regular knife. When the popcorn was unusually defiant, I used a putty knife without the bag. The only issue I had with the bag setup is you can't see the knife and the bag frame gets in the way around the wall and in this case beams. I will use it again, it works pretty well. Minimizing the debris is important.

                        What I thought was mold on the ceiling was just dirt. I guess in 50 years popcorn ceilings get dirty. Painting it would have worked and been less work but we didn't like the popcorn so taking it down still seems like the right approach.

                        The only part I did not get done was edging most of the really high sections. I've got 5 beams across this ceiling and I was not comfortable doing the edging up on the scaffold. I could not adjust it to a great height and I couldn't get the safety rails to attach properly. So I rolled most of the high stuff from the floor with a 16 foot pole. It looks a lot better. I will probably rent a 14 foot step ladder to finish the edging later. Tonight is breaking down the scaffold so I can return it tomorrow morning. I will be glad to get it back to them. I could not have gotten the popcorn down without it but I did not like being on it. 5 feet up was not a problem. 10 feet up was different. I just never felt safe.

                        Jim

                        Comment

                        Working...