Never turned anything but pages and corners

[poolhound]

I have been woodworking for many years but have never had the urge or need to get into turning so dont know one end of a lathe from the other.

As I now have my dedicated shop I have been wondering whether I should find space and pick up something to learn on. I like the idea of interesting bowls and possibly pens.

I would like to learn but want a way to experiment without expending too much cash initially especially on the wrong things. So what would you folks suggest I look at and or stay away from?

This was posted today on my local CL and I have zero idea as to whether this is good or bad a deal or not? I guess the tools are HF.

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/tls/4928127929.html

[leehljp]

That is a good deal but it will be limiting if you decide you like bowls or long spindles. It will be great for pens and smaller bowls.

Three things to look for:
1.MT2 This is the most common size of mandrels, chucks, threaded tools to match to the lathe. Watch out for MT1 or MT3. They "can" work, but you will be limited in the long run if you like turning.

2. If you like bowls, get one with a reversible head, so that the bowl is turned from the side or end. This allows bowls larger than 10 or 12 inches. If you like turning bowls, you will probably find the 10 inch and 12 inch models limiting.

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-x-33-3-8-eighth-inch-wood-lathe-with-reversible-head-34706.html

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Wood-Lathe-With-Digital-Readout/G0462

3. Variable speed. Most belt drives have 3 to 5 speeds. Changing speeds is a very very handy option. Changing speed by belt changes gets old if you do it enough. On Pens, I turn blanks fast, but add finish on the slow. An electronic (or mechanical) VS system is VERY handy. You don't discover this until you are way down the line.
The above two linked lathes have the built in VS. There are others, but these two are the least expensive with the most possibilities while maintaining good quality.

Some people don't mind the belt changing, some people adapt to a single speed. But many do wish they could just electronically or mechanically move a lever or turn a dial.

[lrr]

My concern is seeing a lathe with lots of chips in the paint. Mt lathe is 5 years old and not a single chip. But I tend to take really good care of my tools. Lots of chips to me says that lathe was used hard, or maybe jsut not well cared for. But I could be off base. Jet and Powermatic have 15% off sales this time of year (may have just ended), and Woodcraft runs specials often on Rikon and Nova lathes. If you decide to go used, just make sure you check alignment of headstock and tailstock. Easiest to do with live centers / dead centers mounted in headstock/tailstock, and see if the points align.

I bought a Rikon 70-100 midi lathe when I started. Great lathe, and perfect for turning pens, which was my reason to buy a lathe. Pretty soon I started doing all kinds of spindles (tool handles, pizza cutter handles, pepper mills, etc.). Once I got to the point of wanting to make tool handles, I ran out of room, lengthwise. If you need to drill a hole in the end of your turning blank, you typically run out of room to mount a Jacobs check, let alone putting a drill bit in it. I bought the 20" bed extension for my lathe pretty quickly after getting the lathe, and it greatly increased the usability.

I had been woodworking for 40+ years when I bought my lathe. I'm not sure why I waited. I find it incredibly fun, and rewarding.

This year I plan to try turning bowls. I bought a bowl gouge last year (unhandled -- I like to make tool handles!), and turned this handle for it. Maple with embedded green-colored veneer, with a walnut cap. The ferrule is a brass compression nut with the hex shaped removed during turning. Copper and brass are pretty easy to turn with HSS tools.

[poolhound]

Thanks for the replies thus far. It seems to be a totally different language with Mandrels and head/tail stocks. I am going to have to do some homework :-)

I did email the seller from CL to ask for the actual model number and he replied saying it was sold already. So that sold within 6 hours so I guess somebody agreed it was a good deal. I will keep my eyes peeled and see if something else appears. In the meantime I will find some Lathe 101 material to read.

[radhak]

If you really want to jump start on turning, look for videos on youtube or elsewhere. Fine Woodworking has great ones too.

I found videos especially effective for turning (more so than other woodworking functions) because they give a very real idea of how turning works, the position of the tool rest, how the chisel is held, or sharpened, how much sawdust is generated etc.

[phrog]

I have the HF 34706 lathe that Hank referred to in his post. I had never turned anything before and knew absolutely nothing about turning. This lathe, which isn't that expensive, is actually a pretty good one and has the variable speed that Hank mentioned. With a 20% coupon, you can get one for about $250 or less. Add a few cheap tools and you're ready. Watch videos on YouTube and you'll being turning quickly.

[dbhost]

Another vote for the HF #34706 lathe from an owner. Other than the typical cast iron care, no problems at all with it since 2008. Turned a lot with it, mostly dumb knick knacks, candle stick holders, coasters, that kind of gifty stuff.

As a way to get your feet wet in turning I would recommend. (I will list, and then go into detail below...

Lathe itself.
Turning tools / chisels
Sharpening rig.
Chuck
Safety equipment.

#1. A lathe. (duh) the HF #34706 is a shockingly good lathe, even at twice the money. The base is a little light, but then again, so is the base on the Jet JWL1236.

#2. A starter set of turning tools. You can tap HF for this too. The Windsor Design #69723 8 piece High Speed Steel Wood Lathe Chisel Set is a great bargain, and are actual decent tools. You can learn to turn, AND sharpen on these and not worry too much about ruining them... I do not personally own this set, but have seen LOTS of posts about them, and they are reportedly the same exact set as the Penn State Industries Bejamin's Best 8 piece High Speed Steel Wood Lathe Chisel Set that I DO have, been happy with them. And like I said, no worries about ruining one if you go bad learning to sharpen...

#3. SOME means to sharpen your chisels. While a dedicated grinder / jig is best, as a minimum, you can use the Penn State Chisel Mate rig to do the job. http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCMPLUS.html
If you have the funds and space for it, I personally would opt for a dedicated
grinder / sharpening jig. I went with a single speed Ryobi grinder and Wolverine jig (bought used from a member of another forum years ago). Penn State has their own version that comes with a nice 2 speed grinder already fitted with the white oxide wheel and the jigs... It also works well for sharpening regular chisels and plane irons, well at least getting the basic shape back anyway...

#4. A chuck, if you want to do bowls, plates, candle stick holders, pretty much anything that must be supported on only one end while turning. I have big hands so the two stick chucks are super easy for me, but guys with smaller hands have fits with them. I got my chuck from Woodcraft, but again, Penn State Industries has the same chuck along with extended jaws for the same money. http://www.pennstateind.com/store/CUG3418CCX.html
For single handed operation, the Penn State Barracuda chucks are widely considered to be excellent chucks, but they are considerably more expensive compared to the economy chucks, and there are new versions of the Barracuda I am not familiar with, do your homework on this before buying...

#5. Aside from your typical eye protection and dust mask, this is NOT OPTIONAL, you MUST USE a Face Shield. I have had work pieces fly apart while roughing it, find an unseen crack in a piece when turning and BAM! Hunks of wood flying at your face! It doesn't have to be fancy, it has to keep hunks of wood out of your face. I use one from Home Depot, but the Western Safety from Harbor Freight does a good job for my brother in law... http://www.harborfreight.com/adjusta...eld-46526.html

Lastly, turning produces a particularly LARGE volume of chips and shavings, assuming you are collecting into a dust collector, those shavings are LONG and stringy, you MUST use a separator of some sort, Thien, plain plastic trash can lid, cyclone whatever it takes to separate OUT those stringy strands of wood before they get to your DC impeller cross piece... Even with dust collection, you will likely NOT capture a large amount of the chips / shavings. You WILL want a good broom and dust pan.

Make sure you have NOTHING loose or dangling. Keep your cuffs buttoned, your shirt tails tucked in, and if you use one, make certain your shop apron can't catch on anything spinny...

Lastly, I used to absolutely HATE this song, and it just proves I am a product of the 1980s, but for some reason, every time I go to turn, I always have the Dead or Alive song You spin me round stuck in my head... (if you are a Gen X-er you can thank me for the ear worm later...)

[poolhound]

Thanks Guys thats some great information. The HF 34706 looks like a good option but I am not sure how I would fit a full size floor standing lathe into the shop. I will have to go so some measuring and head scratching.

If I had to go for a bench top lathe are there any that you might suggest?

[dbhost]

Most of the benchtop lathes are going to be more limited in turning capacity diameter wise, meaning you might end up putting your desire to turn larger bowls aside. BUT, if you are happy limiting yourself to 10" or less the HF #65345 is known to be a good one for the money,

[Bill in Buena Park]

Jon,
A few of us 34706 owners have put the lathe on a mobile base (I put mine on the HF mobile base.) This way you can tuck it away or move it around as needed.

I started on the Rockler equivalent of the HF lathe Dave mentioned (10x18), and still use it primarily for pens. I keep it set up with my pen mandrel and set to higher speeds (it has a 5-position belt/pulley arrangement to change speeds). It's MT2, and as mentioned, this is a plus, because most larger lathes and best availability of tailstock centers are MT2.

But I bought the 34706 for larger turnings, primarily bowls, due to its 12" capacity (I have no desire to turn anything larger), and the headstock (1x8) and tailstock (MT2) were the same as my 10x18, so I didn't have to purchase different chucks and such. Also, it was on sale, and I was able to get it for $200 after 20% off on sale. Its a great starter-to-intermediate lathe, great for my hobby needs. In this thread I listed a handwheel option and replacement belt. Note the handwheel comes from Jet - the 34706 is the HF version of the Jet 1236, and I believe most parts could be interchangeable.

I've turned about half a dozen bowls on it since I picked it up just before New Year's day, and really enjoy the variable speed.

On turning tools - I'm really developing good skills with the carbide tools I made a short time ago (turning bowls with carbide almost exclusively now) - but I've had really good look with this HF set of HSS lathe tools mentioned by Dave. Agree that for the price, great set to learn on, especially sharpening. As Dave mentioned, sharpening is key - makes it safer and more enjoyable.

BTW - that Grizzly linked by Hank has an a couple of notable advantages over the 34706, one being larger swing (16in bowls vs. 12in), motor size (2hp vs. 3/4hp), motor placement (some have issues turning very large pieces and bumping the motor fan housing on the 34706 - I've never had this issue), and it has the RPM readout (not critical, but handy). If one has the money for that, could be the type of lathe a hobbyist is unlikely to outgrow.

You've probably heard more than once about this being a slippery slope. Its addicted and gratifying. And I have more chucks and such (for convenience) on order as I write this. Consider yourself warned.

[dbhost]

I would suggest this. IF you can figure out how to make it work, try to get the biggest lathe you can afford. Within reason of course, but the 34706 is a danged good lathe that I have yet to run out of uses for... I just need to use it more!

Yes, the bigger Grizzly is a heck of a nice lathe, and if budget / space would allow it, I personally would prefer it. The motor orientation is a real winner for avoiding work piece / motor collisions... I have used my lathe quite a bit with larger pieces and never had a problem, but have heard about it... Not sure how... The 2HP would be nicer though... If you can squeeze the bucks, but need space, perhaps put it on a beefy mobile base and build a cabinet under it to replace existing storage cabinets? That could buy you back some space.

[radhak]

Jon,
Years ago I bought the Jet 10x14 cheap from CL. I'm sure some waiting can get you another deal soon enough.

If not, and if space is an issue, you could try the HF 65345 - with a coupon that should be for less than $160. It seems to compare well with the Jet according to reviews there.

It's the same size as my 10x14, and I am very happy with the small footprint it has on my workbench.
(I have the extension/stand stored away in a corner - I have not yet graduated to turning larger objects yet!).

[Cochese]

I have the 34706 as well. One of the best things HF sells. I eventually broke the base requiring a new one, which I think I posted here. I have the 8pc HF tool set, and it's marginal. Good for sharpening practice. I also have the Bodger 6pc set from Highland. Much better quality and nicer to hold, but it is looking like I'm due for a touch-up on the edges there as well.

I bought the Nova G3 chuck, and I really like it. I just finished turning my second bowl, and prefer it to doing spindles or whatever.

For sharpening, I have a Rikon 8" slow grinder and the Wolverine jig. Works pretty well.

I'm trying to add up how much I have in it thus far:
Lathe - $230
Tools - $20 (the Bodger set was a gift, but let's add $100 for those)
Chuck - $140
Grinder - $100
Wolverine - $75?

Fairly cheap, but if you want to do pens as well that jumps up.

[lrr]

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-Piece-High-Speed-Steel-Professional-Wood-Turning-Set-61794.html

I bought the above set 5+ years ago. I bought it on sale prior to owning a lathe. Then I ordered a lathe from HF, which after months never showed up, sio I gave up and bought a Rikon from Woodcraft instead.

I am not sure how this set differs from the other HF set mentioned in other posts. It is $20 more, but specs are basically the same. I would not normally recommend cheap tools, but the HF tools are HSS and have enabled me to learn to sharpen without fear of screwing up a single tool that costs as much as this whole set (or more). I've been buying additional tools now to fill the gaps and I am buying higher quality. But I'd do the same all over again. I bought another cheaper set from HF recently (less than $20), and reground one of the tools for a special need, and to see how well the cheaper tools will hold up. For its limited amount of use, it's a cheap experiment.

[poolhound]

This is all great input guys thanks so much.

I will keep my eyes peeled on CL for now and see what may appear. I am now ready to do the external work on my shop to add the lumber storage and room for the DC. Once the DC is out of the shop I will be able to see more clearly how much space I have as its hard right now to see how I could fit the 34706 without tripping over it all the time.