Mud room bench

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  • inkslinger
    Forum Newbie
    • Feb 2014
    • 36

    Mud room bench

    My first project a mud room bench and the tool's I have is my BT3000 table top ,a borrow miter saw,sander,nail gun's and a jig saw.
    Now my question what would I need to do a curve on 3/4 Oak or 3/4 Oak Ply Wood? Would it be to much for a jig saw?
    Would be something like the pic with curve sides and bottom , Will 3/4 size wood be strong for a big person over 2---lb or should I do a 2x4 base frame.
    Attached Files
  • Carpenter96
    Established Member
    • Aug 2011
    • 178
    • Barrie ON Canada
    • BT 3000

    #2
    Hi I am over 350 lbs and use a lot of 3/4" ply to build benches and they hold me no problem.

    Regards Bob

    Comment

    • Black wallnut
      cycling to health
      • Jan 2003
      • 4715
      • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
      • BT3k 1999

      #3
      A jig saw can be used to make the curved cuts in this pic however chip-out may be a problem if you use plywood. Practice on scrap first. Try a finer blade and go slow. It might be time to buy a router and a pattern bit.
      Donate to my Tour de Cure


      marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©

      Head servant of the forum

      ©

      Comment

      • inkslinger
        Forum Newbie
        • Feb 2014
        • 36

        #4
        Originally posted by Black wallnut
        A jig saw can be used to make the curved cuts in this pic however chip-out may be a problem if you use plywood. Practice on scrap first. Try a finer blade and go slow. It might be time to buy a router and a pattern bit.
        Since I will not be doing a lot of wood working will something like this be good to have around when a time does come around ? does it take normal bit's?
        I've never own or used one before but know a little for what there use for, so for the bench will I have to cut the pattern out first then use the router to round the edges right?

        Last edited by inkslinger; 02-28-2014, 07:05 PM.

        Comment

        • Pappy
          The Full Monte
          • Dec 2002
          • 10453
          • San Marcos, TX, USA.
          • BT3000 (x2)

          #5
          That would be a good starter router. The only drawback is it limits you to 1/4" shank bits. Good for light round over work, trimming laminate, etc.

          Like Mark said, if you use a jig saw get fine tooth blades and go slow. If you use solid stock for the framework, you should be fine.

          Plywood is another story. Even on the table saw I run a strip of blue painter's tape along both sides of the cut line on cross grain cuts to prevent tear out of the top veneer. With a jigsaw this might be enough, but you still might get some. What Mark is saying is to make a pattern of the curved sections with the jig saw(sand the edge smooth), clamp it to your work piece that is cut just oversize by about 1/8", and make the final cut with pattern bit in the router.



          Whiteside is one of the top brands and can be a little pricey. MLCS offers entry level bits and pricing and are still good bits. Their #5501 should do what you need.

          Last edited by Pappy; 02-28-2014, 08:14 PM.
          Don, aka Pappy,

          Wise men talk because they have something to say,
          Fools because they have to say something.
          Plato

          Comment

          • Black wallnut
            cycling to health
            • Jan 2003
            • 4715
            • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
            • BT3k 1999

            #6
            Yes exactly as Don (Pappy) describes. The more wood working you do the more you will want several routers. The one you linked to will make a good one to start with and it will continue to be useful. I use my routers on every single project in one way or another.

            If you are using plywood for the curves you also can score the veneer with a sharp knife along the cut line to reduce tear/chip out.
            Donate to my Tour de Cure


            marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©

            Head servant of the forum

            ©

            Comment

            • lrr
              Established Member
              • Apr 2006
              • 380
              • Fort Collins, Colorado
              • Ryobi BT-3100

              #7
              Originally posted by inkslinger
              Since I will not be doing a lot of wood working will something like this be good to have around when a time does come around ? does it take normal bit's?
              I've never own or used one before but know a little for what there use for, so for the bench will I have to cut the pattern out first then use the router to round the edges right?

              http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1-...9?N=5yc1vZc2h2
              That little Ridgid router is terrific. But when I bought mine, it was my 4th router. I think you'll want at least a router that has both 1/4" and 1/2" collets if you are buying your first, to give you the most versatility. If you want to save some money, look for an older router on Craigslist. My favorite router is my 40 year old Craftsman that has great ergonomics, but it is 1/4" collet only. I was going to order some parts like brushes and other replacements, while still available, but decided to just buy another one off Craigslist for $10, and it is my spare parts kit.

              I also have a 10 year old Craftsman, and the Ridgid 2930 combo that has both fixed and plunge bases, and both routers have 1/4" and 1/2" collets. There are a lot of good midrange routers out there.
              Last edited by lrr; 03-01-2014, 12:03 AM.
              Lee

              Comment

              • inkslinger
                Forum Newbie
                • Feb 2014
                • 36

                #8
                Originally posted by inkslinger
                Since I will not be doing a lot of wood working will something like this be good to have around when a time does come around ? does it take normal bit's?
                I've never own or used one before but know a little for what there use for, so for the bench will I have to cut the pattern out first then use the router to round the edges right?

                http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1-...9?N=5yc1vZc2h2

                how about something like this on it say's 1/2 in. collect and 1/4 in. adapter accept a variety of bits?

                Comment

                • inkslinger
                  Forum Newbie
                  • Feb 2014
                  • 36

                  #9
                  I've also notice that Sears carry's a lot of craftsman's routers that have both the 1/4 and 1/2 collets like:



                  Now is getting a big amp better ? Fixed/Plunge router? Can this be install on my BT3000 table?

                  Comment

                  • LCHIEN
                    Internet Fact Checker
                    • Dec 2002
                    • 20920
                    • Katy, TX, USA.
                    • BT3000 vintage 1999

                    #10
                    there's a lot of tradeoffs in routers. Size, capacity vs power and weight among them. Also plunge vs fixed vs combo kit, Variable speed vs fixed speed, and general design features.
                    No one router does it all, a survey done here shows members frequently have several routers. I think i have four or five including an old 1/4" only craftsman (my first) and two Bosch 1617s combos and a Dewalt 621 plunge, and a mini hand held Bosch Colt.

                    In the BT3 FAQ there's an entire section on routers selection and their use with the BT3.
                    Loring in Katy, TX USA
                    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
                    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

                    Comment

                    • Pappy
                      The Full Monte
                      • Dec 2002
                      • 10453
                      • San Marcos, TX, USA.
                      • BT3000 (x2)

                      #11
                      "Since I will not be doing a lot of wood working..."

                      This quote from you is why I said the 1/4" collet router you linked would be a good choice. It will do what you want to do without breaking the bank. If you were planning to build a house full of furniture I would say go to the equivalent of the Hitachi M12V or a Bosch 1617EVS kit.

                      If you should get more into woodworking, you will find you need a bigger router. This one will still serve you well as a go to router for the light jobs or when a job requires switching between 2 router bit profiles.
                      Don, aka Pappy,

                      Wise men talk because they have something to say,
                      Fools because they have to say something.
                      Plato

                      Comment

                      • durango dude
                        Senior Member
                        • Mar 2011
                        • 934
                        • a thousand or so feet above insanity
                        • 50s vintage Craftsman Contractor Saw

                        #12
                        I bought my first router after watching Norm Abrams's router 101 episode.

                        Norm really disgusts me, by the way --- he can eyeball a perfect 90 degrees. I measure 3 times, and I'm still off by 0.1 degrees (it's improved, though).

                        Don't watch Norm's router table episode ---- that will just make you want to hang it up and return to common living.

                        Comment

                        • LinuxRandal
                          Veteran Member
                          • Feb 2005
                          • 4889
                          • Independence, MO, USA.
                          • bt3100

                          #13
                          It isn't just about the materials, but also the shape gives it support. However, I would be inclined to go with a 2x' base, and frame around it with floor molding (like a built in, more of a kitchen cabinet construction), if your 2 and three dashes, means couple thousand of pounds, worlds heaviest person.

                          What other tools do you have? There are other tools that have collets, that you can run a router bit in. (I think things like dremel tools have even some smaller roundover bits, for a one time use thing) You could also check tool rental stores, (garage sales, CL, etc) or if your likely to never use it again, and since you said you don't have experience with them, borrow someone with one, who does and learn from them.
                          She couldn't tell the difference between the escape pod, and the bathroom. We had to go back for her.........................Twice.

                          Comment

                          • Carpenter96
                            Established Member
                            • Aug 2011
                            • 178
                            • Barrie ON Canada
                            • BT 3000

                            #14
                            I started with a Craftsman 1/4" collet router in the 70's and still have it and used it for many projects, even some i'm sure it was not intended for. I now have 6, 3.25 HP routers and 6 other routers in addition to the Craftsman. They are a great tool to have. If you use a template (Pattern) and a bearing bit plywood comes out great. That said Before I got my first router I cut almost everything with a jig saw and then sanded it smooth. My first two power tools were the jig saw and a good dual action 1/2 sheet sander.

                            Regards Bob

                            Comment

                            • mpc
                              Senior Member
                              • Feb 2005
                              • 979
                              • Cypress, CA, USA.
                              • BT3000 orig 13amp model

                              #15
                              This is a half-again more expensive than the Ridgid router referenced earlier but I think it is a far more versatile unit. I have one and it's become my main hand-held router for all but the largest tasks:
                              DeWalt DWP611PK
                              It is a motor unit, for 1/4 inch bits, with two bases: a "fixed base" like the referenced Ridgid unit and a darn handy plunge base. Plunge bases make it easier to start or stop an operation (such as routing a slot or groove in the side of a plywood sheet) when you don't want the cut going all the way to the end of the workpiece. (look up "stopped dado" as an example) It also has LED lights making it easier to use in areas without extra lighting - like a beginner's garage shop. And it takes the standard Porter-Cable style guide bushings for dovetail jigs, sign (letter or number) making sets, etc. Very versatile and it'll serve well if you go deeper into the woodworking hobby. The Ridgid unit referenced earlier is more of a "trim router" designed to do edge roundovers or other edge profiles and is less sophisticated in its cutting depth adjustment. You can do those same cuts with either base on the DeWalt but the adjustments, especially on the plunge base, are easier and more repeatable and it has a rotating "turret" so you can make deep cuts (too deep to make in one pass) as a series of stepped cuts without changing the main depth adjustment rod on the router... this assures that you'll always have a consistent depth if you have to make multiple deep router cuts: set the adjustment rod for the final depth, then rotate the turret to a different position so it stops the cut early, make the cut, rotate the turret to the next step and make a deeper cut, rotate the turret out of the way and get the full depth cut.

                              Okay, enough sales pitch on the DeWalt (no, I don't work for them nor own stock in DeWalt, I just really like mine!). Other hints for your project:

                              Making the arcs: make a simple compass with a string, a nail, and a pencil to draw the large arcs. Another technique is to flex a thin piece of wood but that requires straight, consistent grain. A simple string compass, or a pencil and nail stuck in opposite ends of a scrap wood stick, work quite well. A jig saw will work to make the cuts, just go slow and set the jig to NOT use the "orbit" function. (jig saws move the blade up-down but most also have an adjustable back-forth orbit motion that makes the cut go faster but results in a sloppier cut) Cut just to the waste side of your line and plan on sanding to the line. I'd take a piece of the cutoff - the mate to your arch - and cut out about a foot long piece of it. Glue sandpaper to the edge and use that to shape the arch. If you ever find yourself deeper into woodworking, and oscillating spindle sander, or a drum sanding attachment to a drill press, will make sanding arches a lot faster.

                              For sanding the rest of the project: a versatile tool (and useful for many household repairs in addition to woodworking) is a random orbit sander. A basic one with a hook-n-loop (as opposed to press-n-stick) base will do a lot of the grunt work part of sanding quickly and easily; it'll do almost all sanding for painted projects. For stained projects I always do one final pass hand-sanding the project, going with the grain. The hook-n-loop sanding disks are available everywhere, are fairly inexpensive, and can be re-used; the press-n-stick ones often don't stick too well after they've been removed once or twice.

                              mpc

                              edit: I see Home Depot also sells the DeWalt router. If you don't have a Rockler store nearby, print their add and get Home Depot to price match.
                              Last edited by mpc; 03-01-2014, 02:57 PM.

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