Can I use a cut-off wheel?

[MK]

I need to cut stainless steel thin walled (0.028") 1/4" tubing. I don't have a miter/chop saw and cutting with a Dremel is not acceptable as I need a fairly accurate 90 degree cut. I was thinking using a 7" cut-off wheel with the same 5/8" arbor as the BT3100. I would be using a close gap throat plate.

Something like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-...tal-39679.html

Is this possible and safe for the BT3100? The feed rate would be extremely slow as I want a clean cut.

[Tom Slick]

It will work but will leave a good sized burr, any abrasive cut-off wheel will.

[MK]

Thanks Tom. If given a choice between a burr or a less than perfect 90 degree cut, I'll take the burr and clean it up with a Dremel and grinding stone.

[Tom Slick]

you could also cut it a bit long and file it to tune the cut.

[Pappy]

I use these in 120 Grit to make quick work of removing burrs. Takes a very light touch.

[LCHIEN]

Have you considered getting a conventional wooden miter box and using a hacksaw to get a square cut? Shouldn't take too long for the thin-wall stuff.



or I guess they're plastic now. THis one's $5 at Sears


HF has one for $8 with a backsaw (saw with a back spine for very straight cutting). Lots of 25% and 20% off coupons floating around these days if you sign up with them for mailed flyers and e-mails.

http://www.harborfreight.com/miter-box-with-saw-66562.html#.UyE_SPlnRcY

They're useful to have for small items that have a tendency to roll, like dowels and plastic or metal tubing. I use a miter box to cut most small lengths of small dowels that are scary on the table saw and go flying on the miter saw. The bandsaws tend to rip them out of your hand.

A good miterbox will have a lip on the front to anchor it on the edge of the workbench and cuts on the push stroke.. Use your left hand to hold the workpiece in place against the back wall and the right hand to push the saw using the 90 or 45 degree slots. I've used the backsaw for wood pieces and a hacksaw for metal stuff like aluminum bars, aluminum and steel straight or threaded rod, tubing etc.

[capncarl]

Another example of using the wrong tool for the job, kinda like cutting a small piece on the sliding miter saw. For 1/4 thinwall stainless tubing I would use a tubing cutter, same one that you would use for copper tubing. HF item #40913 @ $4.99 will get you by and not cost a finger and it will cost a lot less than the possible damage the metal dust will cost you on the tilt / raise lower mechanisms of your BT. A Harbor Freight cut off grinder with a thin razor disk for $19 will work well, and you can always use it for cutting metal around the house.

[LCHIEN]

Another example of using the wrong tool for the job, kinda like cutting a small piece on the sliding miter saw. For 1/4 thinwall stainless tubing I would use a tubing cutter, same one that you would use for copper tubing. HF item #40913 @ $4.99 will get you by and not cost a finger and it will cost a lot less than the possible damage the metal dust will cost you on the tilt / raise lower mechanisms of your BT. A Harbor Freight cut off grinder with a thin razor disk for $19 will work well, and you can always use it for cutting metal around the house.

$5 adjustable tubing cutter. yeah, actually that's the right tool for this job!
less than $15 at Lowes

http://www.lowes.com/pd_131848-21365-55296_0__?productId=4084030&Ntt=tubing+cutter&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dtubing%2Bcutter&facetInfo=

[woodturner]

$5 adjustable tubing cutter. yeah, actually that's the right tool for this job!

Haven't tried using the copper tubing cutters for steel tubing. Are the cutters hardened enough to cut steel?

[LCHIEN]

Haven't tried using the copper tubing cutters for steel tubing. Are the cutters hardened enough to cut steel?

.028" stainless tubing...
Capncarl suggesting a copper tubing cutter would work on it, I'm inclined to believe it, esp if we are only talking about a few cuts with a $5 HF tool.

[capncarl]

I've cut miles of 1" .035 wall fully annealed ss tubing with a tubing cutter. Granted, it was not with a HF tool but if you were easy with it and not over work the wheel it should work.
capncarl

[dbhost]

I have cut plenty of stainless steel tubing, albeit not thin wall, using a regular plumbers tubing cutter. Yes it provides a perfect 90 degree cut across the tubing.

One problem with tubing cutters is that the pressure of the cutting wheel indents the material as it cuts, meaning the opening should be cleaned out with a reamer afterwards if you want to maintain internal diameter of the tubing.

I can't say if the HF $5 cutter will do the job or not, never used one. The tubing cutter I used I believe was made by Stanley, and had a sizeable advancing wheel to it.

[JimD]

I used to use a table saw I made from a kit and cut metal and ceramic tile on it using abrasive disks. The arbor bearings wore out and I bought my BT3100. I don't cut these sort of materials on the BT3100.

My preferred method is to put the appropriate abrassive blade in my HF right angle grinder. Sometimes for metal I use a reciprocating saw. I cut a lot of electrical conduit to length when I did my outdoor deck with these two tools. If you want a more square cut, HF sells an attachment for the grinder that turns it into a little chop saw.

[MK]

Thanks for the comments guy.

Miter Box:
I've never worked with SS before. Would a HSS hack saw blade cut SS easily? I have a miter box at home and a hack saw too with a HSS blade.

Tube/Pipe Cutter:
Unless you have a SS cutter wheel on it, it won't do a good job or perhaps won't even do the job. This is what I've heard and not what I've experienced since I haven't tried. People have posted pics of end results using cutters designed for aluminum/copper piping. The cutting wheel just isn't hard enough for any SS. Rigid has a few pipe cutters that are specifically for SS tubing and they run $35 and up. Not economical for a $5 tube and a dozen cuts. Also, as someone has mentioned, it "dents" the tube. Cleaning/opening up the inside is no problem but you can't "undent" the outside diameter. Think of a rounded outside edge.

Back to the Cut-Off Wheel:
Hmmm...never considered the SS shavings getting into tight places of the saw and damaging it. May not be worth the risk!

I will post back once I give it a try this weekend. Method TBD.

[JimD]

Here is what I would use:

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/grinders-buffers/4-12-angle-grinder-69645.html

Possibly with this stand:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200422331_200422331?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Power%20Tools-_-Power%20Tool%20Accessories-_-375354&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=375354&gclid=CIrGvPqAkr0CFStk7AodcGMACQ

You could probably use a reciprocating saw with a plastic or wooden miter box if you were careful.