wheel inner grip cracked; fix?

[I saw that!]

.....

[Hockeynut]

I have the same problem with my handle!!

[LCHIEN]

I've never had that part off or taken apart, but...
Looks like from the diagram the inner grip is held to the wheel with a c-clip (we call the Jesus clips because when you pop them off and they inevitably go flying off to some dark corner of the room you cry out "Jesus").

So it seems to me like
1. you could take a wooden dowel the same diameter as the inner grip and drill it to accept the metal piece after you break off the plastic part Various glues would work; there is not a lot of forces working on this I would think.
2. you could get a threaded rod the diameter to fit the hole in the wheel and fasten it to a wooden dowel the same diameter and length as the inner grip. By drilling a hole and using various glues and or even set screws. A nut loc-tited on the grip side and a a nylock nut on the back of the wheel should make it rotate smoothly.

Be glad to drill the dowel for you on my drill press, I have all the drill sizes you could imagine.

[LCHIEN]

want to buy a drill press? I have an extra. 8" craftsman. three speed benchtop.

looking for a good home.

[LCHIEN]

want to buy a drill press? I have an extra. 8" craftsman. three speed benchtop.

looking for a good home.

[Hockeynut]

I thought using the previous comment on using a dowel for the handle. A nice walnut dowel would look good. Just take out the original pin and put a threaded stud in the wheel. Think that would work??

[LCHIEN]

Yeah, I could lock a bolt down in the wheel, but the trick is finding the right dowel/pin. Google tells me that there are numerous suppliers of wood spool blanks, so I'm leaning that way -- I can easily enlarge their hole(s) to fit my existing handle shaft (and possibly add a sleeve). This should also be relatively inexpensive.

edit: forgot to reiterate that I want the original saw's appearance as much as possible, and also want to use the rubber outer grip. The inner grip/guts can be fugly, as long as it works well.

presuming you can find a dowel the right diameter, get a hex bolt the right diameter and cut off the head, leaving a shank and threaded portion. YOu can groove the shank using a dremel tool, to accept the spring clip. Then glue the threaded portion into the dowel the right depth. Round the end of the dowel if you need to.
Or, you can do the same but glue the smooth end into the dowel and use a Nylock nut on the back of the wheel to allow the handle to rotate.
Either of these sounds eminently doable.

[TCAS]

Would this work?

Ryobi BT3000 Table Saw Billet Aluminum Handle

[geopilot]

That same seller just made a nice custom adapter for a metal handwheel for my BT3100. I posted photos in the thread over in the classifieds. He is great to work with and could make anything you need I'm sure. Contact him through ebay and see what he can do- ebay ID is hubbard66.

[LCHIEN]

That eBay guy hubbard66 also posted these pictures, he apparently doesn't have any of the first but does have the second for sale right now;these are a BT3000/3100 handwheel, very cool looking esp. the full wheel one which I'm sure costs a bit more

[LCHIEN]

Not sure, but if this bolt has a sleeve, it has extremely small clearance. Looks more like just a partial shaft polish job with indentation cut. And is it just me, or does that threaded portion look bent?

That's a shoulder bolt. The base of the shoulder butts to the recess in the socket. The shoulder will rotate in a bushing or clearance hole and the shoulder length will keep the bolt head from bottoming out tight against the wheel, allowing it to rotate. Presumably the shoulder length is just long enough to not have a lot of slop.

His stuff looks like quality-machined, well thought-out stuff to me. I ordered one of his handwheel adapters to make my new Grizzly handwheel fit.