Replacing Handwheels on BT3100?

[JoeyGee]

During the recent Sears clearance, I picked up a set of two metal handwheels (I don't have the model# in front of me) for a Craftsman saw. They look to be the same size as the BT3100. Is it much trouble to swap them out? I read in the FAQ section about it (very brief) and it sort of sounded like it was not worth it. I don't like the plastic wheels, and for $2.49 plus hardware, I would like to change them...

[os1kne]

I changed mine to a metal wheel. It is very easy, but requires an adapter. I got the parts from Sears, I think the adapter was around $8. I'll see if I can find a part# for you.

[LCHIEN]

quote:Originally posted by JoeyGee

During the recent Sears clearance, I picked up a set of two metal handwheels (I don't have the model# in front of me) for a Craftsman saw. They look to be the same size as the BT3100. Is it much trouble to swap them out? I read in the FAQ section about it (very brief) and it sort of sounded like it was not worth it. I don't like the plastic wheels, and for $2.49 plus hardware, I would like to change them...

Here's the text from the FAQ:

quote:
I broke my Elevation/bevel crank handle. What to do?
The BT3000 crank is plastic, not the saw’s best feature. The BT3100 crank handle is not only plastic, it’s god-awful ugly, too. The crank handle is held onto the shaft with a socket head cap screw. Its been reported on the BT3000 it’s held with some sort of locking glue which is almost impossible to break loose. If the handle is broken, anyway, apparently heating the cap screw will break the bond and you can get the cap screw off the shaft.

The shaft is 7/16th, not a standard shaft diameter, The crank handle engages the square end of the shaft with a square recess. You can get a replacement from Ryobi’s parts suppliers which is not cheap and you’ll still have a plastic handle,

Or get the craftsman 22811 saw version which is cast metal but requires an adapter. You’ll need item #36, a 981817-001 adapter, ($9.09), and item #35, a 977277-002 Handwheel Assy ($9.99) and a ¼-20 by 1” capscrew (at your local hardware store). You’ll need to specify the saw model 315228110. Here’s a link to order them.

Some have bought handles from other industrial suppliers but some modifications are needed because the standard shaft diameter is 3/8th inches.

Here Jim Frye details how to beef up the BT3100 handle to make it stronger and stiffer.

The handle diameter while not unimportant is probably less important than having the right shaft size. I'd say a metal handle is worth having if the effort was minimal. If you broke it and needed a repalement, then that's a different matter altogether. You Have to have a handle.

If you have to replace handles these are the options:
1. get a replacement BT3000 or BT3100 handle (I'd get the better looking BT3000 one)
2. Get a Sears 22811 saw (BT3000 clone) handle replacement from Sears which is metal and you need the adapter.
3. or buy an industrial supply store crank handle but you have to modify it to fit the non-standard shaft.

you don't say if your handles take the 7/16" shaft; that makes all the difference if it will be easy or hard and therefore worthwhile for an non-mandated changeout.

Bill (OS1KNE) apparently took the Sears 22811 route. Maybe he can say if the adapter required converts 3/8" wheel to a 7/16th shaft? The part number is in the FAQ text.

[gjat]

I haven't taken my handle off, but here's a suggestion:
If the shaft is 7/16" diameter with a flat side, I'd go to McMasters (www.mcmasters.com) and get a die cast zinc handle #6033K78. It is a 4.5" diameter wheel, 3/8" bore with a set screw and it has a revolving handle. Simply re-drill it to 7/16". If the shaft doesn't have a flat side, I'd grind one, leaving a lip so you can pull on the handle to engage the miter tilt.

[Jim Frye]

I filled the hand wheel on my BT3100 with lead shot and epoxy. No flex and it now has the proper mass to help with raising the motor and arbor. I used some construction adhesive to seal the holes where the yellow tabs lock onto the black back. I then blocked the rim of the wheel dead level in all directions. I poured enough number 7 1/2 lead shot into the the back of the wheel and used a popsicle stick to get the shot so that it was just below the rim of the wheel. I then mixed some slow set epoxy thinned with a few drops of acetone and poured the mix into the back of the wheel. I poured in one section near the hub and let the epoxy run down into the shot and force the air out of the cavity. When the wheel was full to the rim and the epoxy had covered all of the shot, I went away for a day or so to let the epoxy cure. You must make sure that the holes in the wheel are sealed or the epoxy will bleed out until it sets. Better yet, scroll down the forum and read Joe Sacher's post on this subject. The only difference in what he wrote and what I did was that I sealed the yellow part off from the black and put more shot into the back of the black piece. I had shot all the way to the hub of the wheel. Same process that Joe documented so well.

[os1kne]

Loring is correct, I did go the Sears 22811 route. I'm glad that he posted the part#, because I was unable to find it. I'm not sure if the adapter converts to 7/16 or 3/8. Will try to measure this weekend. I made the change about 3 yrs. ago, so my recollection is fuzzy. If I recall correctly, the screw for the BT3x00 handle is not long enough to work w/ the adapter so a longer screw is necessary - will verify.

Good luck.

[sacherjj]

quote:Originally posted by Jim Frye

Better yet, scroll down the forum and read Joe Sacher's post on this subject. The only difference in what he wrote and what I did was that I sealed the yellow part off from the black and put more shot into the back of the black piece. I had shot all the way to the hub of the wheel. Same process that Joe documented so well.

I actually put shot in the center as well, but had problems with epoxy flow through the shot. This was why I made the recommendation for just putting it on the outside. Perhaps I should have just thinned my epoxy a slight bit more.

Until I find out how to get this put up as an article, my pictorial of Jim's mod is here: http://joesacher.com/handlefix/

[Jim Frye]

Until I find out how to get this put up as an article, my pictorial of Jim's mod is here: http://joesacher.com/handlefix/
[/quote]

Joe: Just send the image files and the text of your article in Word (.doc) format to Sam. He should be able to format everything and get it into the articles section. At least that's what I have done in the past.

[BadeMillsap]

I have the suggested parts ... but ....

OK ... the BT3100 handwheel started to slip to the point where I decided it needed to be replaced and being a "metal is better than plastic" kinda guy I used this thread as guidance to purchase the craftsman 28211 parts (mentioned in the thread above) ... but .... call me and idiot ... I can not for the life of me see how the adapter referenced (981817-001 adapter) can actually be used ...

I know it's asking a lot for what should be an obvious task but can someone that has actually done this to their BT3100 post a pic or two of how they used the adapter?

[WestofLongBeach]

Until I find out how to get this put up as an article, my pictorial of Jim's mod is here: http://joesacher.com/handlefix/

Well, no, it doesn't seem to be. I'd be interested in seeing it.

Don.