cutting aluminum

[Wood_workur]

with the sale at rockler, it will be cheaper to get the t-track kits than the indivigal t-track for my drill press table. The problem is that the track is too long for what I need, and I also need to put some miters in it. Can I cut it on my miter saw, or should I break out the hacksaw? Also, can I use a (five flute) countersink on the aluminum, or will it not work?

[leehljp]

MIter saws and a table saw with a good sharp blade will do very well! I have done it numerous times and so have many others.

There are some caution though -
1. it is NOT wood, but aluminum, and aluminum chips can do far more damage than sawdust. wear protective gear and or facemask.
2. make double sure that it is held/clamped in place so that it will not go flying.
3. Use only a carbide blade.

It is not uncommon to cut aluminum on TS and Miter saws as well as route it with a router and carbide blade. It just requires an extra amount of caution and protection. AND it looks more professional done this way.

[Whaler]

I have cut a lot of aluminum on the BS with no problems. Once I cut aluminum I do dedicate that blade to aluminum and no longer use it on wood.
I see no reason to use a carbide blade.

[leehljp]

quote:Originally posted by Whaler

I have cut a lot of aluminum on the BS with no problems. Once I cut aluminum I do dedicate that blade to aluminum and no longer use it on wood.
I see no reason to use a carbide blade.

I have cut aluminum on my bandsaw also, but it does not cut as smooth as a miter saw or a TS. BUT on a TS or MS, I would NOT recommend or suggest for anyone to use an all steel (non carbide) blade for cutting aluminum. The blades spin way too fast and will dull the blades pronto, which offer far higher chances of kickback. A band saw cuts with a much slower tooth speed, is not nearly as wide as a TS blade and are hardened differently than a steel TS blade - which make it reasonable for cutting aluminum, but again, not as smooth as a TS or MS with a carbide blade.

If I am overlookings something here, I apologize and will take and learn from any comments.

[RodKirby]

I'd recommend the MS, NOT the Table saw. Do you really want aluminum flying around the TS that used virtually 100% for wood?

I'm lucky - I have a dedicated CMS for cutting Al.

[maxparot]

Use the miter saw with a carbide blade.

[Wood_workur]

thank for the input. I don't use the ms for wood that much, so it woln't be a problem

[monte]

I recomment the MS also. Be sure to wear safety glasses and some hearing protection.

[gjat]

I really think using a power wood tool on aluminum is potentially very dangerous just from the flying chip aspect. I don't understand the difficulty of cutting aluminum with a hacksaw, but for what it's worth, here's a few tips.
-buy good bi-metal blades.
-use 24tpi
-make sure blade is tight and square in saw
-sometimes reversing the tooth direction helps in control
-mark a line front, back, and top
-go slow and be patient.
-clean up with a file or sanding block
-finally, I would consider a disc sander, but would vac up all crumbs and replace the sandpaper when done.
If you absolutely must use a power tool because of the number of cuts, I would rig a jigsaw with the proper blade and make a decent table to mount it upside down to. The make blades of sufficient lengths for most purposes.

[Andrew Benedetto]

I use my Bosch jig saw with their blades,no orbit,rubbing alcohol is a good lube/coolant which helps keep the blade clean too. Clamp down the track. The handle end of a file can be used to bevel and remove burs. I use a hand Rockler countersink as not to loadup a metal cutting one with Al. shavings,cuts easily.

[leehljp]

Greg (gjat): "I really think using a power wood tool on aluminum is potentially very dangerous just from the flying chip aspect. I don't understand the difficulty of cutting aluminum with a hacksaw, but for what it's worth, here's a few tips."

Greg a few years ago, I needed to make some slots in some aluminum and it was not going to be easy or smooth with a hacksaw or jig saw. I asked on the old Ryobi forum about using a router and carbide router bit for doing this. The first 4 or 5 responses were totally negative with the "danger aspect of it",

Dave in Cairns ( http://www.australianwoodart.com.au/ ) chimed in and said that when he built boats/ships, they used standard routers with carbide bits to cut and fit aluminum. After that, a few others chimed in and said "of course" it can and is done that way, but more precautions must be taken for the flying chips.

Aluminum is cut and shapped to custom sizes using carbide bits every day, and in small workshops by woodworking tools with the carbide bits. That is why you can buy non-ferrous bits and blades in the woodworking stores. A common practice, but as you and others said, an extra set of precautions must be abided by.


HAVING said all of the above: It is Better to err on the Side of Caution! If you do not feel comfortable doing that, then don't do it!

For any who one who has not tried machining aluminum, but wants to try it without regard for safety, remember this: Famous last words of a red neck: "Hey yall, Watch this!"
[)][:I][B)][V]


WARNING ON MACHINING ALUMINUM: MANY people do not realize this but aluminum chips/particles and steel chips and particles are the basis for thermite. It is very dangerous to grind or saw aluminum and then follow by grinding steel. A hot glowing spark of steel that flies into a pile of aluminum that already has some steel dust can set off a chain reaction that results in a thermite fire.

This is part of the reasons the Twin Towers collapsed. The impact of the aluminum jets melded a lot of steel and aluminum. The initial impact fuel fire triggered that melding into a thermite fire which weakened and melted the steel framing.

I do not have the links now, but have read of several fires that have been caused in shops because of grinding aluminum and then steel without cleaning up after each grind. Of course I know what thermite is from playing with it in chemistry class 40+ years ago.

[LarryG]

I've cut aluminum using woodworking saws a lot. Not a problem, and not unusually dangerous if you follow normal safety procedures. Paramount among those is to wear eye protection.

Something I don't think has been mentioned ... be sure to clamp the workpiece down securely when cutting using a CMS, since the material will have a tendency to self-feed itself sideways into the blade.

[silverfox]

What about all that metal dust and chips getting into the inside of your power tools motors etc??
Mike