remote-Relay for DC

[monte]

Sounds like a definate purpose contactor?

[LCHIEN]

Instructions for building a relay booster

I promised this. I think Monte would approve and he was right about the contactor, natch.

These instructions show how to construct 3 versions of the booster.
1) to use a low amperage remote control to switch a DC drawing up to 30Amps continuous.
2) how to use a Sears autoswitch to control a Vac or DC on a separate AC branch circuit so the vac doesn't have to share 15Amps with your saw
3) how to use either the remote or the Autoswitch to control a 240V DC up to 30Amps.

[URL="http://users.sisna.com/cebula/RelayBoxInstructions.pdf [/URL]

please read the warnings in the instructions. If you don't build it right, you can set your house on fire.

Hey, if you like this post, give me more reputation points - click the "scales" Icon on the brown bar at the top right of this post.

[softop41]

switch info

Yes, I too would like to know how to make one to control my Delta DC.
Thanks,
Jerry

[hobkirk]

Thanks, Loring... very nicely done!

[Kristofor]

I think you deserve a bit of a rep bump just for posting this at 1:44AM!

Thanks,

Kristofor.

[JR]

Nice design

Thanks for the nice writeup, Loring. It's very simple, but does what it needs to do.

I'm using x10 for mine and it seems to work fine. It has the benefit of wireless activation from wherever I'm standing in the shop. I'd be a lot happier, though, driving your relay circuit from the x10 relay. It would for sure mitigate any loading issues.

JR

[LCHIEN]

I revised the instructions and reloaded them around 6PM CDT. Added a few testing hints, other minor corrections.
If you got them this morning, or afternoon (Wed 4/5) you might get a new copy, same link.

[lcm1947]

Hey Loring. Thanks for the as promised instructions. A lot of work went into this I know and we thank you for all your efforts. Now if I don't blow myself up.

[LCHIEN]

the link to the instructions is to a long dead FTP web site.

anyone needing the instructions, I have them if you PM me with your e-mail address.

[BerniePA]

Yea, Loring, way to go!!!

[master53yoda]

Loring, I'm getting the address not found error Thanks

[LCHIEN]

Loring, I'm getting the address not found error Thanks

yes, as i said the original FTP web site linked in the post is long gone. The thread was in 2006 but someone today linked the thread recommending my remote control.

Private mail me with your e-mail address and i'll send it to you directly.

[Garasaki]

I'm working on trying to figure out how to control my DC right now...there's a fair amount of options out there, most of which cost a fair bit to get into (even a "cheap" x10 solution). I looked at Loring's diagrams and have a few questions...

Is there any reason this device couldn’t be hardwired? Points A and C on the relay could just go directly into the line voltage hot and neutral right?

I’m not sure I understand the purpose of the “control device power” outlet. In my application, I think I would use a X10 light switch to activate the contactor coil. I’m no good at drawing circuits, but I think I understand it in my head as this:

Line hot and neutral go to A and C on the contactor. B and D would then go on to an outlet I would plug my dust collector into.

E would go to line neutral (off any circuit – including the one used for the dust collector). Line hot would to to my X10 switch, then from my X10 switch to F.

This would allow me to use a cheapo, none-highly rated (and cheaply and easily replaceable) X10 switch to activate power to the dust collector. I also happen to have a number of x10 switches and even a remote on hand…

(looking a little closer, this is very similar to your 3rd diagram)

[LCHIEN]

i put the outlet to power the remote device on the box just to make it neat and sclean. You can plug your X10 into the wall, and then plug the DC into the box. The box xtill needs to be plugged into the source of power for the DC. So another 120V outlet or a 220V outlet depending upon the DC you are using.

No sure of your other question. If you hardwired all the connections to A & B then the DC would be on all the time... no switching.

[Garasaki]

I mistyped that about A and B - I editted the original post to hopefully avoid confusion in the future.

It would be A and C that would be hardwired to the house power, rather then using a cord and plug to connect them.

Generally speaking, I'm thinking that I will do this but not have it all contained in a single box the way you did - spread it out in surface mounted conduits and junction boxes. The X10 switch in a handy location so I could activate it manually if I wanted to. The DC outlet close to the permanently mounted DC. And the contactor somewhere in the middle. Then of course the power could come in directly from the wires for the dedicated DC circuit.

Actually all this stuff is fairly easy to understand once you look at it for a while. I spent all afternoon yesterday dreaming up a 24v control system with a timer on it so it would start the DC a few seconds after a power tool came on then shut it off a few seconds after the tool was shut off. The problem was it costs like 60 bucks after you buy all the 10 dollar parts with 15 dollars shipping on them.