Urgent: Which router? Which features?

[davidtu]

I don't own a router, I've never owned a router. My immediate need is to do about 160 mortises in fence posts, so I assume that I need a plunge router for that? Beyond that, I have no idea how I will use it, but I do plan to eventually get into furninture making to some degree. I have the BT3100 (of course, right?) and would like to have something I can mount on the accessory table--but that's not a requirement... I can get a separate router table if needed (at some point).

Here are my questions:
1) confirm need for plunge router & explain difference bet. getting a router w/ two bases and a dedicated plunge router--does the latter have a fixed mode too?
2) help me understand the size to get... how many HP / AMPs do I need & for what?
3) what are the tradeoffs for handheld use vs. table use? what sort of projects require handheld vs. table & what size/weight is appropriate for each?
4) what accessories will I need right off the bat?
5) how important is variable speed?
5) specific recommendations of models.

I've been following discussions on bargain alert threads and on Amazon. Seems I just missed out on a great deal on the Freud FT2000E @ $110; the Hitachi M12V seems to get good reviews but has been cheaper than $160 (current price)--which still seems like a good price/value from what I can tell. PC is having $30 rebate on the PC 694VK (brings it down to $160 @ Amazon) but it is "only" 1.75 HP, is that sufficient? Same for the 693LRPK, which comes down to $150 @ Amazon. Btw, is main diff bet. these the variable speed? These PC rebates are good thru end of April. All can be combined w/ Amazon $25 off of course, which is thru 4/25. The Hitachi KM12SC (single speed) seems like a good compromise @ $118 special @ Amazon. Though, will I want the variable speed? I thought the Bosch 1617EVSPKE was on special, but now seems unavailable.

Overall, I want to spend no more than $150 at the end of the day. Anyway, I want to get something ASAP since my dogs are tearing up my yard and I need a fence to stop them... and this is halting its construction dead in its tracks.

SUGGESTIONS?!

[venkatbo]

'am no expert, but I think the easiest way would be to get a mortiser. That along with the TS can help you get these doen the fastest.

With a router, you end up with rounded (ends) mortises. You'll have to straighten those so the tenons (done on the TS) could fit...

/venkat

[Sawatzky]

I have a PC 690 and love it. Some may argue that it is a little outdated, but it works great for me. 1.75 HP seems like enough power for hand held use, which is what I use it for. Also the lack of variable speed is not really an issue for hand held use. If you want a router to be able to use in a table, variable speed is a must. If you shop around you can find some great deals on combo kits - allowing you to have both a fixed base and plunge base. Most people leave the fixed base in the table and use the pluge base for hand work. Bosch, PC, Hitachi all have great combo units. Good luck with your purchase.

[jlake1998]

I just recently purchased a router, I was origionally going to purchase a 1/4" size.

After quite a bit of research found i had to step up a level.

When looking at bits i found more varity in the 1/2 size. Such as a drawer pull bit i wanted.

If you increase to 3 hp many said were quite heavy. So dint want to go overboard either. The 3 hp work well for panel raising bits.

Long time woodworkers have 2 or 3 or more routers. Made me think i better start with a 1/2" bit size with a few features even if cost little more.

So i looked for one that included a fixed and plunge base, soft start, varible speed.

people rate porter cable and bosch at the top from what i found. And hitachi is right up there and its said to be one the lowest decibel in noise. I ended up with the hitachi KM12VC

I have not used a PC or Bosch but i did try a ryobi 1/2 and it was to loud for me and the the lady says i cant hear.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Please explain your mortising plan a little more. How bit are the fence posts? Like 4 x 4 ? If that is the case I can't imagine using a router for this. Don't know that mortiser is answer either. Depends on size of project but a large 1/2" mortising chisel/bit would take many plunges to complete one hole. Constant resharpening of chisel would be necessary.
Again, please explain the job you are specifically seeking to accomplish. Your answer may not be a router.

BTW, Bosch 1617EVSPKE combo kit when it is on sale for less than $200 is my vote as it contains practially every accessory you will need to start working on project (other than the bits!). Do a search function and look through past threads on subject of best combo router. It has been discussed at length many times.

[davidtu]

Jeffrey, you may be right... a router may not be the answer for this project... so let me know. (But note, I do want a router eventually, anyway).

The posts are 2.5" square. I want to mortise 3/4" deep rectangular holes that are 3/4" wide and 1.5" high. I will need to do four such mortises on each side of the post to attach the horizontal fence slats.

[drumpriest]

Here are my questions:

Here are my answers.

1) confirm need for plunge router & explain difference bet. getting a router w/ two bases and a dedicated plunge router--does the latter have a fixed mode too?

I would go with a multibase kit, if you can. A plunge router is useful for making mortises, inlays, routing cups in solid material for pulls, making signs, and so many other things that I havn't even thought of....

2) help me understand the size to get... how many HP / AMPs do I need & for what?

Most routing jobs can be done with 2-2 1/4 HP routers. 12 amp range. A 3hp router is best for in a router table where you are going to be using large router bits such as horizontal panel raisers. Even though can be used in a 2 1/4 hp router with a few more passes, and if the router has proper speed control.

3) what are the tradeoffs for handheld use vs. table use? what sort of projects require handheld vs. table & what size/weight is appropriate for each?

Handheld for anything too large to put onto a table. Table for smaller stuff, and for large router bits. Bits such as panel raising bits, rail and stile bit, should ONLY be used in a table. 3+ hp routers are typically considered a bit bulky for hand use.

4) what accessories will I need right off the bat?

A router with speed control, soft start, and maybe an edge guide can get you far.

5) how important is variable speed?

VERY important if you plan to use large bits. Think about the future uses of your router, or you'll be buying a new one in the future.

5) specific recommendations of models.

Bosch 1617 and PC 890 are probably the top 2 for multi-base kits with variable speed in the 2-2 1/4 hp range. Both now have pachages with built in above the table height adjustment. I bought the Bosch 1617 kit from Amazon with the micro-adjust edge guide and above tale adjustment for around 200$. I like the bosch plunge better than the PC's.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

One thing you must remember is that a lot of advertised HP ratings are crap. (stong feelings on the subject? You bet!). Does 3.5 HP Hitachi develop more real sustained HP than a Bosch 2.25? We know that one can only develop around 2.25 sustained HP on 110 at 15 amp. So we can definately determine that Hitachi is fluffing that 3.5 HP number and it is likely a reflection of peak HP. I don' know why stupid advertising assertions such as a 6.5HP shop vac is allowed. Maybe I should take that motor out of the shop vac and shove it into my TS. It would be a REAL cabinet saw then boys! 6.5 HP Craftsman 22124 . . . . I could see it now.

[jbalders]

Jeffrey, you may be right... a router may not be the answer for this project... so let me know. (But note, I do want a router eventually, anyway).

Sears sells a Craftsman-ized version of the much revered Bosch 1617evs-pk. From all indications it appears to be identical to the Bosch-labelled one except that it's drilled like the other Ryobi/Craftsman routers. This means that it'll fit in the accessory table using an unmodified Ryobi router mounting plate (from the BT3K accessory kit).

Sears item #00926620000 Mfr. model #1617-12
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00926620000
Currently on sale for $199 through 4/29/06

It may not be the best price you can get the 1617 for, but it's decent, and there's a good chance you can go to your local Sears to pick it up today.

[davidtu]

Update to complicate matters...

To complicate matters, I have discovered what seems to be a very good deal on a Delta Mortiser. Here is a link to another thread on that topic, for which I ask your advice....

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=20349

[drumpriest]

One issue that has been raised about the Sears version of the Bosch is that the subbase isn't compatible with the bosch bushings, and sears doesn't have bushings currently available. So that can be an issue.

[agent511]

I bought the Bosch 1617 EVS pk at a wood show in December,05. I don't see anything in the directions about above-the-table adjustments. Is this a brand new improvement, or am I missing something?

[drumpriest]

It's a new feature, the latest release of the router includes it. It's a hole through the fixed base that a small hex wrench fits in to move the fine adjustment knob from up top. You still need to reach below for the course adjustment.

[scorrpio]

1) confirm need for plunge router & explain difference bet. getting a router w/ two bases and a dedicated plunge router--does the latter have a fixed mode too?

Mortiser aside, yes, you'd want a plunge router. Sure, the mortises you cut will have rounded ends - but chucking either 3/8" roundover or a 3/4" bullnose bit in a table mounted router, you can round the end of a fence slat in under 10 seconds.
The general router wisdom goes: get a 2-base kit, mount fixed base in the table, and leave plunge for hand work. Moving router motor between bases is a lot faster than unscrewing a base from the table each time. A plunge router locked in down position works as a fixed base router.

2) help me understand the size to get... how many HP / AMPs do I need & for what?

2 1/4 hp is the router seen most in hobby shops. Though when people buy a router for dedicated table use, they go for a 3hp one. A router from reputanle company (Bosch, Dewalt, PorterCable, FesTool) will usually provide the HP they claim.

3) what are the tradeoffs for handheld use vs. table use? what sort of projects require handheld vs. table & what size/weight is appropriate for each?

As explained above, handheld for large unwieldy pieces. Table for small, easily handled pieces or for running large bits.

4) what accessories will I need right off the bat?

Obviously, you'll need bits. And did I mention you'll need bits? Economy bits don't cost much, but this being a fence, I suspect the lumber is treated for outdoor use. And making 160 mortises in treated wood is no mean feat. Check around - some folks here own a $200 router and a $1000 bit collection.

5) how important is variable speed?

I'd say don't get a router without it. And get a router with soft start. Larger sized bits need slower speeds. And your wrists will thank you for the soft start.

6) specific recommendations of models.

I just love my Dewalt 618. I bought 618B3E (kit includes fixed, plunge and D-handle bases and edge guide). It cost me $224. But looking at current prices, it seems that is what a 2-base kit sells for these days.

[LCHIEN]

my 2cents
I've taken the craftsman red version of the Bosch 1617 off my recommending list because of the weird incompatibility with mounting the template guide holder and other mounting issues (allthough I guess it will go directly into a BT3100 auxiliary table mounitng plate).

If you are really going to mortise 160 deep mortices into fence posts (which seem like a masochistic thing to be doing) you 'll want as much HP as you can get to make this thing happen fast which means one of the
3.25 HP machines.

Does any plunge router have sufficient travel to cut a 4" deep mortise I don;t think so , that's even the far end of a mortising machine. You'll be real tired since mortising machines basically are muscled thru the cuts.

Double posting the same thread in multiple forums is not good forum etiquette. It scatters the answers, clutters the board, and confuses people.