Squaring projects

[PJC]

Anyone have any tricks as to how to make projects (cabinets,furniture,etc.) square during assembly? Every time I assemble my projects they are off square. Then it takes a while to figure out where the adjustment is needed. Sometimes I'm too frustrated and I leave it slightly off square (depending on the project). I'm sure we've all gone/go through it, so I want to know if anyone has any hints or methods that they use to ensure squareness. Or, what they do to adjust if the project is not square once the pieces are assembled and the glue is drying.

Thanks,
Pete

[LCHIEN]

Anyone have any tricks as to how to make projects (cabinets,furniture,etc.) square during assembly? Every time I assemble my projects they are off square. Then it takes a while to figure out where the adjustment is needed. Sometimes I'm too frustrated and I leave it slightly off square (depending on the project). I'm sure we've all gone/go through it, so I want to know if anyone has any hints or methods that they use to ensure squareness. Or, what they do to adjust if the project is not square once the pieces are assembled and the glue is drying.

Thanks,
Pete

there are several ways
some people measure the diagonals and make them equal in both directions before nailing in the cross supports or cabinet backs.

Another way is to use 90° miter clamps to hold at least 2 of the four corners in an assembly before glueing and fastening.


Rockler and others sell squareing jigs designed for this purpose - basically an "ELL" made of plastic or steel that you use inside or outside a corner and a couple of clamps to hold them tight.


I made a few ELLs of my own for not much bucks out of 8" long 2x2 stock squared and planed and joined carefully.

[hermit]

The new thing is to use clamping blocks that are exactly 90 degrees. They look like "L"s. You can find them in any of the woodworking catalogs, but I broke down and made some. You just clamp them in the corners of your cabinet with small clamps to keep it square.

Also depending on the size of your project, you can use a long clamp across the diagonal to Tweak it into alignment. Start by measuring both diagonals, corner to corner. If they are the same, the box should be square. If not put a clamp across the longer dimension and tighten until both come out equal.

Todd

[leehljp]

One of the primary purposes of good solid work tables is for the squaring of furniture or items being built.

Below is a picture of a steel table that my Japanese friend uses for his construction table. He says if the construction table is not flat and square, then the furniture will not be square. Squaring of work starts with the foundation that is holding it. His table is roughly 3 1/2 by 6 foot and flat to 1/1000 inch from corner to corner.



We can't all have a table like that but he does make a point on the foundation of a work table being necessary to good square work.

[Brian G]

These things help me, assuming that all parts are cut square, and dimensions are correct:

1. Dry fit. Have all the clamps you will need close at hand, at the ready, after you have completed your dry fit. Then have a few extra near just in case.

2. Go through the motions without the glue, if possible. This allows you a chance to see where problems may happen.

3. Slow down. You have enough open time to get the joints fitted and the clamps on before the glue sets. There's no need to rush. I have to remind myself of this each time.

4. Have a helper on the other side to help you align joints, hold clamps, or hand you clamps.

I hate when I get a project that has four legs or corners dead-on square, but its final resting place is not level.

[Ken Massingale]

I use shop made squaring ells, then very closely check the diagonal measurements. All done on a solid, level assembly table (solid wood exterior door).
ken

[JimD]

I measure the diagonals and then put a clamp across the long one to pull things in line if it's out. Doesn't take a lot of time. I also like to use little clamps sold to make picture frames on the intersections of cabinets to hold things in line if I am screwing the cabinet together. It does not hold things perfectly square but gets it close. I suspect these right angle devices metioned above perform similarly.

If it's a cabinet with a back, I make sure the back is square. It is my last chance to pull things in line.

Jim

[Tom Miller]

I've altered my glue-up approach recently, and I think it's for the better. Nothing ground-breaking, but it might get you to thinking about your own process:

1. Cut your joints as square and tight as possible -- don't overdo the "tight" part, though.

2. Use known flat surfaces for assembly, like others have pointed out. I made a 12" x 48" x 4" thick torsion box just for bookcase/shelf assembly. It really works well, and I can completely include it in the clamping, unlike a benchtop.

3. During the dry fit clamp on squaring blocks, and check for square. When you pull the pieces apart for glue-up, leave the squaring block attached to one of the pieces so it's ready to go.

4. Try to decrease the number of joints you're gluing at any one time, and pay more attention to squaring.

A recent project where I followed my new "rules" was a 5-compartment open "locker" (think bookcase on its side). I used to try to glue all dados at once. But on this project I went one shelf at a time -- it was a lot less hectic.

Regards,
Tom

[emjr]

Squaring Projects

I'm new here, and I've only used them a couple of times, but I've had good results with a set of shopmade squaring blocks that I saw awhile back in one of the magazines. I used some good-quality 3/4" plywood, cut very carefully-measured 45/90/45deg triangles 6" on the congruent sides, then cut notches about an inch in from each 45deg corner to fit my clamp jaws. I also bored a hole about 1 1/4" dia out in the middle of each. The hole can be used for hanging or to add clamps if needed. Cost: about one hour of my time (and who can argue with an extra hour in the shop?) It saved some effort to clamp the stack together once the basic triangles were shaped and gang-cut the notches.

[ejs1097]

Lots of good tips.

isn't it funny how Norm and most other shows always "check for square" and they always are so tring to learn how to adjust to make a slightly out of square assemby square is out of the question.

[scorrpio]

Step 1 is careful machining of parts. If a tenon is crooked, the parts will not be square - or the joint won't hold, or going to look ugly as heck. So, investing in some good measuring/layout tools, taking time to properly tune your machinery, and constructing jigs that help you avoid 'freehanding it' should take you halfway there. And yeah, have a dead flat and level assembly surface.

Step 2 is a complete dry run: assemble your glueup, along with all the clamps you gonna use. With clamps on, check for square. Now, leave it for at least an hour, better overnight and check for square again. Sometimes the clamp weight will pull your project gradually out of square - which means that same will happen when you do actual glue up. You need to rethink your clamping scheme, add more support, etc.