My 4" S&D DC Piping System (12 pics)

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  • LarryG
    The Full Monte
    • May 2004
    • 6693
    • Off The Back
    • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

    My 4" S&D DC Piping System (12 pics)

    In another thread, I was asked to post some photos of the 4" S&D piping network I recently installed for my dust collection system. Ergo, here they are.

    PHOTO 1 shows the connection of the two main trunks, upper and lower, to the impeller inlet on the dust collector via a single wye fitting. The hose at right serves the band saw -- see also Photo 4. It terminates in a standard quick-disconnect hose end fitting, which is a very snug fit inside the bell end of a 4" S&D fitting. The bare end of the hose will also fit, but is difficult to insert and remove. I chose to use the QD fitting in case I ever need to move the band saw completely out of the way.

    The few small chips you see on the jointer's infeed table are the most that ever escapes the DC system at this tool. A system such as mine cannot possibly capture all the fine dust generated in a wood shop, but it's terrific at large-chip collection.



    PHOTO 2 shows how the bottom half of the main trunk comes off the impeller inlet and heads off to serve the jointer and cabinet saw. I'll revisit this part of the system a little later in your tour. For now, note how the wye fitting is inserted into the impeller cover of my Harbor Freight 2HP dust collector. The ~4-1/2" OD of the wye fitting, wrapped with some 1/4" thick weatherstripping, made for a perfect fit.



    PHOTO 3 is a shot of the currently-unused takeoff that will eventually serve a new router station that'll be incorporated into the extension wing of the cabinet saw ("A"), the connection for the saw itself ("B"), and at right, the connection for the jointer ("C"). This is the only portion of the ducting that is on the floor. Floor runs can be a tripping hazard; but since this one is not in a major traffic aisle, it's hardly the worst compromise in my shop.



    PHOTO 4 shows how the hose in Photo 1 wraps around the back side of the band saw makes its connection to the tool. Since the band saw is on a mobile base, this piece of hose is the longest (but only by a few inches) in the entire system. I don't actually roll the band saw around the shop, but rather just rotate it in place in order to gain more infeed room, or to get it out of the way when I bring out the thickness planer you can see sitting on its mobile cart in the background.



    PHOTO 5 is taken at the exact center of the shop. I placed the three primary vertical drops in the system at the three pipe columns that run down the center of the shop. The pipe labeled "A" serves the miter saw, out of the picture to the left. "B" is the port for the drum sander, and "C" is where the thickness planer connects when I roll it out into position for use. "D" is the main trunk, continuing on its way to the router table and points beyond. Note how the blast gate for the miter saw's run is placed as near the main trunk as possible, rather than over next to the saw. Ideally, you want the DC sucking on as little empty pipe as possible.



    PHOTO 6 shows the drop at the miter saw. The dust on the horizontal surface is proof that trying to capture the dust from a miter saw is mostly futile without some kind of hood around the back side of the saw. The hose is longer than it needs to be; this is a temporary setup that will soon be replaced by an all-new miter saw bench similar to the one Nahm has in the New Yankee Workshop.



    PHOTO 7 shows how the main trunk ("A") has a branch leading down to serve the router table fence ("B"), then on down to the router box under the table ("C"), while the main trunk itself continues on to the last drop in the system, above the countertop at the rear of the shop ("D"; also see Photo 8). Note how the piping is secured to the supporting structure with zip ties. Most of the pipe joints are just press-fit together, with no glue; at a few locations, I used a wrap of Gorilla Tape to hold things together. But for the most part a friction fit is adequate. The only real problem area is that the tapered flange on the plastic blast gates I'm using are prone to coming adrift of the fitting into which they are inserted. I'm going to secure them with some 1/4" long sheet metal screws.



    PHOTO 8 is the dual 2-1/2" drop for the spindle sander and the shop vac hose that I use for general shop clean-up. I can also use the downward-facing blast gate to connect a router or sander, if desired. This is the farthest point in the system from the dust collector.

    Yeah, yeah, I know: that sink in the background looks like something a truck stop men's room wouldn't have. I inherited a pretty big mess in the rented building that now houses my shop; I'm still working on cleaning it up.



    PHOTO 9 shows the unused stub-out that I put in above the drill press to serve some future tool on this side of the shop, near the assembly table. I've no idea what that tool might be or where it would go, but the port is there in case I ever need it. In the background, you can see the pipe that runs over to the miter saw.



    PHOTO 10 shows three things I'd change if I had it to do over (and I may change them anyway, since they kinda bug me). At "A" I would smooth out the awkward routing around the pipe column, a side effect of a late decision to raise the DC base platform a few inches off the floor so that it wouldn't roll around. At "B" I'd eliminate the short section of hose that I had to install because no available stock fitting gave me quite the needed angle. At "C" I'd extend the hard piping closer yet to the jointer's dust hood -- perhaps even all the way, replacing the hose entirely, since my jointer is not on a mobile base.



    PHOTO 11 shows the biggest leak in the entire system. I need to remove my homemade stove pipe duct connecting the impeller housing to the bag inlet ring and seal the joint with weatherstripping. Most of the stray dust you see in the various pictures is coming from here.



    And finally, PHOTO 12 shows -- or not -- the dust that escapes the DC system at the drum sander. I've only had this tool about six weeks but I've already used it a fair amount, and you're looking at the most stray dust I've ever seen anywhere near this tool. I will confess to being amazed at how well the DC works at this machine.


    I'll be glad to answer any questions about any of the details of how the system is put together. Thanks for looking!
    Larry
  • sthompson82
    Forum Newbie
    • Jan 2005
    • 45
    • woodstock, ga.

    #2
    Thanks for the walk through. As someone that doesnt have a DC yet, this gives me a good running start (Bill Pentz's site just confused me more than where I started). I definitely have a lot more to consider than I originally thought.
    I do what I do

    Comment

    • ragswl4
      Veteran Member
      • Jan 2007
      • 1559
      • Winchester, Ca
      • C-Man 22114

      #3
      I have the same DC and it is currently only plumbed with 3 short runs of hose with blast gates for each run. Do you pull from one machine at a time or several? I will eventually be out of the garage and into a dedicated shop and want to plumb my DC in similiar fashion. Are you satisfied with the ability of the system to extract the dust for your various machines?

      Thanks for showing us the setup.
      RAGS
      Raggy and Me in San Felipe
      sigpic

      Comment

      • JR
        The Full Monte
        • Feb 2004
        • 5633
        • Eugene, OR
        • BT3000

        #4
        Nice walk through, Larry. I learned a few things even though I've stared at my similar setup literally for hours, trying to solve connectivity problems.

        The trick little 2.5" setup at the back bench is nice. Also, the main connector at the DC inlet is trick.

        Even with the good planning and execution of your system, I notice a fair bit of selective purchasing. The above-mentioned 2.5" wye with blast gates did not come from the local HD. Same for 4" QD connectors.

        JR
        JR

        Comment

        • TheRic
          • Jun 2004
          • 1912
          • West Central Ohio
          • bt3100

          #5
          Nice post Larry, but then again from you I wouldn't expect anything less!!
          Ric

          Plan for the worst, hope for the best!

          Comment

          • MikeMcCoy
            Senior Member
            • Nov 2004
            • 790
            • Moncks Corner, SC, USA.
            • Delta Contractor Saw

            #6
            Really nice post Larry - I start setting up my new place this afternoon and that made me see some better ways to do what I need to do.

            Comment

            • Tom Miller
              Veteran Member
              • Mar 2003
              • 2507
              • Twin Cities, MN
              • BT3000 - Cuttin' it old school

              #7
              Looks great, Larry! Your tool layout really made for a clean DC layout, especially the tool clusters around the columns.

              I imagine the detailed photos are going to be really helpful for a lot of folks, too.

              Are the plastic blast gates working out well for you?

              Regards,
              Tom

              Comment

              • Brian G
                Senior Member
                • Jun 2003
                • 993
                • Bloomington, Minnesota.
                • G0899

                #8
                Nicely done, Larry. Your photos of how you went from the 4" to the 2.5" have given me some ideas for connections for use with some of my benchtop tools.
                Brian

                Comment

                • cgallery
                  Veteran Member
                  • Sep 2004
                  • 4503
                  • Milwaukee, WI
                  • BT3K

                  #9
                  Hey Larry, how does the airflow through those 2.5" ports compare to a shop vac?

                  Comment

                  • LarryG
                    The Full Monte
                    • May 2004
                    • 6693
                    • Off The Back
                    • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

                    #10
                    Rags: One machine at a time, generally. With only one 2-1/2" gate open (CMS, spindle sander, or cabinet saw***) the DC unit is kind of strangled, as evidenced by the lazy swirl of the debris in the bottom bag. When using one of those ports, I also open one of the 4" ports about halfway, or even all the way, to let the unit breathe. As for being satisfied ... for what I paid, yes, I am. As mentioned above and in Ryan's thread, I'm fully aware that this size DC, and this size pipe, isn't moving enough air to collect all the fines. But as a help-me-keep-the-shop-clean system, I'm totally satisfied. It's doing a much better job overall than my old hose-only system did in the other building.

                    (***Although the cabinet saw has a 4" port on the back, the internal hose that connects the blade shroud to the port is only 2-1/2".)

                    JR: The 2-1/2" blast gates are from the 2" shop-vac-driven network that I had installed in my older, smaller shop. In that building, there was no way to run 4" hard pipe, so I used hoses on the big tools and had the 2" system for my CMS, handheld power tools, and general shop clean-up. Most of the black fittings came from either Woodcraft or amazon.com. You're right: you can't drive over to Lowe's Depot and pick this stuff up on a Sunday afternoon.

                    Tom: The plastic gates are working fine, apart from the aforementioned loose-fit problem. A couple short screws per each oughta fix that. Also, I learned the hard way to orient the gate so the slider slides horizontally, rather than vertically. A vertical orientation allows dust to settle into the recess at the bottom, which gets compacted ever tighter every time the gate is closed, with an ultimate result of the gate not closing all the way.

                    cgallery: The air flow is pretty good, although obviously somewhat restricted by the reducer. Still, I can plug a long shop vac hose into one of the 2-1/2" ports and use my big DC to vacuum the shop floor, and get it as clean as if I used the shop vac itself.
                    Larry

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