Finally finished this lumber storage cart.
Sheetgoods are stored in the centre.
It's from plans from the Dec. 2003 issue of "Woodworker's Journal". I did make some changes to the plans to suite my preference. My shop is in the basement, about 8' x 16', quite small but since I'm in the process of more than doubling it in size, I have to organize my lumber, cut-offs, sheetgoods, etc.
Since the shelf brackets and standards they showed in the picture were going to cost me over $600, I decide to do it differently; I used 5/8"OD steel tubing, which I bought, cut to size, from Metal Supermarkets, and slid PEX plastic tubing over the steel tubing after first warming the PEX in hot water and using handlotion as lubricant to press the PEX onto the steel tubing.
It did mean building a jig to plunge drill the 5/8" holes for the steel tubing:
I used a 5/8" lipped brad-point drill bit in the router(at slow speed) to plunge the holes. The router was mounted at a slight angle so that the tubing would protrude at a slight upward angle from the 2 x 4's. The jig was kept in line by a long straight edge, this assured that the holes would be in line. The router's plunge range is about 2.25", I wanted to go deeper than that and finished drilling the holes deeper, to about 3", by using the 5/8" bit in the hand drill.
Here are some intermediate construction stage pictures.
Tim
Sheetgoods are stored in the centre.
It's from plans from the Dec. 2003 issue of "Woodworker's Journal". I did make some changes to the plans to suite my preference. My shop is in the basement, about 8' x 16', quite small but since I'm in the process of more than doubling it in size, I have to organize my lumber, cut-offs, sheetgoods, etc.
Since the shelf brackets and standards they showed in the picture were going to cost me over $600, I decide to do it differently; I used 5/8"OD steel tubing, which I bought, cut to size, from Metal Supermarkets, and slid PEX plastic tubing over the steel tubing after first warming the PEX in hot water and using handlotion as lubricant to press the PEX onto the steel tubing.
It did mean building a jig to plunge drill the 5/8" holes for the steel tubing:
I used a 5/8" lipped brad-point drill bit in the router(at slow speed) to plunge the holes. The router was mounted at a slight angle so that the tubing would protrude at a slight upward angle from the 2 x 4's. The jig was kept in line by a long straight edge, this assured that the holes would be in line. The router's plunge range is about 2.25", I wanted to go deeper than that and finished drilling the holes deeper, to about 3", by using the 5/8" bit in the hand drill.
Here are some intermediate construction stage pictures.
Tim
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