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I finally did something I've been putting off for years. Just because I was dreading it.
Actually it was pretty simple for me, my garage shop has open studs and open rafters making it relatively easy. And the breaker box is on the inside of the garage, with open spaces in it.
The original garage had one 20-A circuit with three wall outlets that also powered the garage door opener, the lights and two outdoor lights.
When I worked in the shop I had to have the air compressor off lest it kick in while I was sawing. And the DC which drew 15A, every time I wanted to use the table saw I ran a 25-ft 12 ga. cord out the front door of my garage, across tha patio and into an outlet on the side of the house on a different circuit.
So much for following the advice in the FAQ about plugging the BT3000 into a dedicated circuit.
So over the past few weekends (actually one weekend and one evening) I ran FOUR more 20A circuits into the garage.
One for the TS, overhead dropped down using one of those $10.49 extension cords with four outlets and green LEDs spaced every 8 feet.
One for the DC (The DC is on a remote switch I posted about)
One for the Air compressor and also feeds a nearby corner with a cordless phone and sprinkler control that both needed something better than a long extension cord thrown up over the rafters.
One along the south wall for the air cleaner and a few tools there (DP, BS, Jointer etc).
Wow, much better feeling now I don't have to worry about popping circuit breakers at any moment. Or Dragging the DC extension cord across the patio in a rainstorm. And stepping over extension cords.
GE thin-profile 20A Breakers (that matched my breaker box) surprisingly were only $3.50 at HD, $3.72 at Lowes. Duplex Outlet boxes, outlet, and cover around 2 bucks per duplex outlet,
the 12-2 NM wire was the most expensive part... about $32 for 50 feet boxes, I had part of one, ended up buying 2 more before I was done. I could have bought 250 feet for $68...
Anyway, I did buy a short spade bit to add some holes but I ended up using holes already drilled by the original electrician. As recommended by code, wire should be supported every 4-something feet and within 12" of a wiring box. As I looked at the existing wiring, I realized that meant apparently supported either by a horizontal rafter underneath, a hole in a vertical stud or Horz header, or stapled to the framing.
The breaker box had a place to write the breakers function along with a number. I had long ago written the numbers next to the breaker with a Sharpie. As I added breakers 25, 27, 29 and 31, I used my P-touch to make labels for each outlet box cover enumerating the corresponding breaker.
While up in the rafters I tossed out several items that were cluttering up the overhead (i.e. the box my first CD-ROM drive came in... hmmm 1994?). Bit of a problem maneuvering the ladder around but not too bad. Sort of dictated the route for some of the wiring, though :-)
Actually it was pretty simple for me, my garage shop has open studs and open rafters making it relatively easy. And the breaker box is on the inside of the garage, with open spaces in it.
The original garage had one 20-A circuit with three wall outlets that also powered the garage door opener, the lights and two outdoor lights.
When I worked in the shop I had to have the air compressor off lest it kick in while I was sawing. And the DC which drew 15A, every time I wanted to use the table saw I ran a 25-ft 12 ga. cord out the front door of my garage, across tha patio and into an outlet on the side of the house on a different circuit.
So much for following the advice in the FAQ about plugging the BT3000 into a dedicated circuit.
So over the past few weekends (actually one weekend and one evening) I ran FOUR more 20A circuits into the garage.
One for the TS, overhead dropped down using one of those $10.49 extension cords with four outlets and green LEDs spaced every 8 feet.
One for the DC (The DC is on a remote switch I posted about)
One for the Air compressor and also feeds a nearby corner with a cordless phone and sprinkler control that both needed something better than a long extension cord thrown up over the rafters.
One along the south wall for the air cleaner and a few tools there (DP, BS, Jointer etc).
Wow, much better feeling now I don't have to worry about popping circuit breakers at any moment. Or Dragging the DC extension cord across the patio in a rainstorm. And stepping over extension cords.
GE thin-profile 20A Breakers (that matched my breaker box) surprisingly were only $3.50 at HD, $3.72 at Lowes. Duplex Outlet boxes, outlet, and cover around 2 bucks per duplex outlet,
the 12-2 NM wire was the most expensive part... about $32 for 50 feet boxes, I had part of one, ended up buying 2 more before I was done. I could have bought 250 feet for $68...
Anyway, I did buy a short spade bit to add some holes but I ended up using holes already drilled by the original electrician. As recommended by code, wire should be supported every 4-something feet and within 12" of a wiring box. As I looked at the existing wiring, I realized that meant apparently supported either by a horizontal rafter underneath, a hole in a vertical stud or Horz header, or stapled to the framing.
The breaker box had a place to write the breakers function along with a number. I had long ago written the numbers next to the breaker with a Sharpie. As I added breakers 25, 27, 29 and 31, I used my P-touch to make labels for each outlet box cover enumerating the corresponding breaker.
While up in the rafters I tossed out several items that were cluttering up the overhead (i.e. the box my first CD-ROM drive came in... hmmm 1994?). Bit of a problem maneuvering the ladder around but not too bad. Sort of dictated the route for some of the wiring, though :-)
Loring in Katy, TX USA
From what I understand, most sparkies in Chicago still distrust NM/Romex.
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