I finally got around to making an outfeed table a couple weekends ago. It ended up being a bit heavier that I wanted because I found that a cheap lowes 3068 hollow core door isn't necessarily flat, nor all that stable. It is still fairly easily taken off and on at the end of a shop session.
The legs are adjustable; done with sliding dovetails, a slot, and a T-bolt. I needed adjustable legs because the ground the saw sits on is not level. I made the legs last fall. A light application of paste wax got them sliding easily again. The bottom half of the leg is the movable portion. The adjustment knob stays in the middle and is easily reached during setup. Gravity will pull the sliding portion down.
The table attaches to the saw rails with simple brackets made from some 2x4 and 1x4 scraps. I used some 5/16 T-studs from T-nuts.com and some wing nuts.
The door was edged in some 1x Radiata pine. The edging height is the same height from the bottom of the rear rail to the table surface (minus a 32nd or so) The edging member is received by the brackets on the saw rail.
Cross ribs out of the same material were glued underneath after the cutout for the SMT was made. I ended up doing the cutout with my router as my wife borrowed my jigsaw and it could not be found. When I glued in the 2x filler strips in between the door skins I recessed them a bit and then cleaned up the joint with a flush trim bit. I probably should have made the cutout a bit wider to accommodate running the edging in it. It would have finished it out much cleaner. (I have to keep telling myself that it's just shop furniture. It doesn't really matter.)
I brushed on a couple coats of water-based poly after a good sanding. I chamfered the top edges of the pine slightly too.
The legs are adjustable; done with sliding dovetails, a slot, and a T-bolt. I needed adjustable legs because the ground the saw sits on is not level. I made the legs last fall. A light application of paste wax got them sliding easily again. The bottom half of the leg is the movable portion. The adjustment knob stays in the middle and is easily reached during setup. Gravity will pull the sliding portion down.
The table attaches to the saw rails with simple brackets made from some 2x4 and 1x4 scraps. I used some 5/16 T-studs from T-nuts.com and some wing nuts.
The door was edged in some 1x Radiata pine. The edging height is the same height from the bottom of the rear rail to the table surface (minus a 32nd or so) The edging member is received by the brackets on the saw rail.
Cross ribs out of the same material were glued underneath after the cutout for the SMT was made. I ended up doing the cutout with my router as my wife borrowed my jigsaw and it could not be found. When I glued in the 2x filler strips in between the door skins I recessed them a bit and then cleaned up the joint with a flush trim bit. I probably should have made the cutout a bit wider to accommodate running the edging in it. It would have finished it out much cleaner. (I have to keep telling myself that it's just shop furniture. It doesn't really matter.)
I brushed on a couple coats of water-based poly after a good sanding. I chamfered the top edges of the pine slightly too.
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