lumber / wood storage wall rack ....

[footprintsinconc]

well here is my first project that i started and completed in the last year........i got distracted from wwing. before i could begin again, i had to clean up the garage and get myself organized.

so i thought of making a hybrid lumber cart that big tim had made, one that would store wood and would have a fold up & out panel saw. it was going to take up much more space than i wanted to right now. so i though that i could incorporate what loring had done and make a wall rack instead.

so here is what i did:
these are 2x4s cut to 48" long. i had at first bored holes with a 11/16" spade bit for the 1/2" thin wall EMT tubing. after trying to put one in, i then ended up doing what loring had suggested with a 3/4" spade bit. the top to shelves are 6" apart and then the next four shelves below are 8" apart. the EMT tubes were cut to 20" long with a 5.5" long 5/8" dowel set 1" from the end of the tubes with gorilla glue. these tubes were embeded 3" into the 2x4. the 2x4s were fastened to the wall using (4) 5/16" diameter x 5" long lag bolts into the edge of the 2x4 in a 5/8" recess. the 2x4s are spaced at 16" oc. this allows me to put the EMT tubing 32" oc and am able to use different hole combinations to give me a different weight distributing on the 2x4s. my worst case loading was figured to be 360lbs (if fully filled, not as shown in the pictures below). each lag bolt is good for 175lb in shear parallel to grain.

i used the drill press at work to make first set of holes. the 2nd time around, using the trimmed 3/4" spade bit, i bored the holes out free hand. just a note to those who may attempt this, DONT. drill the hole the first time around correctly with a ever so slightly narrowed 3/4" spade bit as loring described in his thread. otherwise you will end up with holes that are oblong since a spade bit isnt the right bit for reboring a hole larger than before free hand. lesson learned.

without any further ado, so here are the pics:







here are some pictures of the shop that will prove to you that i need to organize and clean up before any ww can be done:

[jackellis]

That looks pretty good.

I cheated by using store-bought heavy duty shelf brackets and standards, mounted 32" OC, in part because I didn't have time to make something from scratch and in part because I didn't want to give up so much space along the wall. However I only have half my lumber on the rack and I'm starting to get concerned about the weight.

[tseavoy]

Sure beats my method of just leaning the stuff in the back corner. What I really need is a place to store all the small pieces until they've aged long enough for me to give up on using them and burn them in the shop wood heater, only to find the next day that I needed a couple of those pieces.

Tom on Marrowston

[SARGE..g-47]

Very nicely done, Omar.

[Uncle Cracker]

That's a very useful storage solution.

[lrogers]

Like Tom said, it beats my method! Very nice work.

[Pappy]

I need to do the same thing. What is the angle on the holes? I assume the holes are big enough that the pipe can be rearranged as needed.

[footprintsinconc]

thanks guys for the kind words! i wish i had found the thread of shaving the spade bit before i drilled my initial holes.

I need to do the same thing. What is the angle on the holes? I assume the holes are big enough that the pipe can be rearranged as needed.

i forgot to mention that. i drilled them so they were on a 7°.

the holes should be drilled so that bar is snug, so that you can pull them out and rearrange and redistribute the load. i am keeping the load at 400lbs max per 2x4 assuming the heaviest wood weight of 50psf or 55psf, i cant remember.

just make sure when you are shaving the 3/4" spade bit (very little at a time), keep drilling a new hole and testing the pipe fitment every time you shave off just a tad bit, so that you can get a snug fitting hole.

[footprintsinconc]

dang! i forgot something that i should have mentioned before. the one thing that still needs to be done is to add blocking in between the 2x4s to restrain them from trying to roll sideways.

when i grab the 2x4 that i mounted on the wall, i can move it back and forth a little but when you grab the end of the rod sticking about 20" from the face of the wall, its is easier to move it sideways a bit. so to ensure safety, the blocking needs to be added between the 2x4s.

enjoy!