Hot Rodding the Central Machinery #32208 Band Saw

[dbhost]

As you may know I am in the process of hot rodding as it were, my Harbor Freight 32208 14" band saw. The work so far has been..

#1. Harbor Freight Universal Mobile Base.
#2. Craftsman Professional Universal Band Saw Fence. (functional, but certainly NOT great, planning on picking up some small HF C clamps to help it out. The clamps this thing somes with are garbage.)
#3. Harbor Freight riser block kit. Priceless add on for this saw.
#4. Accura Micro Adjustable Roller Bearing Blade guides.
#5. Acculink link belts.
#6. Timberwolf blades.

These mods have been done for quite a while now, and I have been picking up the design ideas, bits and pieces to move forward with bigger mods. The biggest is my Grizzly tension release lever.

Due to some comments in the Grizzly Tension Release on a HF bandsaw thread, there has been some confusion to which parts to order for the tension release. I have double and triple checked the part #s against the Grizzly G0555 parts list.

33 P0555033A 1 Blade Adj. Screw Assy 7"
131A P0555131A 1 Fixed Spacer A.
131B P0555131B 1 Fixed Spacer B.
133 P0555133 1 Lever Rod
135 P0555135 1 Bushing
137 P0555137 1 Bracket
140 P0555140 2 Support Plate
141 P0555141 1 Fixed Base

Now the rest of this stuff SHOULD be findable at your local hardware store for a LOT less money than Grizzly sells it.
If you are wanting to go with the Metric to be 100% up to speed with Grizzly, the parts are...
130A PSS05M 1 Setscrew M5-.8x10. (Required to get this size, the Grizz parts are threaded for it!)
130B PSS07M 1 Setscrew M5-.8x5. (Required to get this size, the Grizz parts are threaded for it!)
132 PW04M 1 Flat Washer 10mm
134, PW01M 6 Flat Washer 8MM
136, PSB82M 1 Button Cap Screw M8-1.25x20
138, PB15M 2 Hex Bolt M8-1.25x40
139, P0555139 2 Nylon Nut M8-1.25
142, PLW04M 2 Lock Washer 8MM
143, PB09M 2 Hex Bolt M8-1.25x20

Per the original instructions, if you have SAE tap / die set, you can substitute SAE hardware for the metric stuff. Those components are...
2 @ 5/16-18 bolts 1 1/2"
2 @ 5/15-18 bolts 3/4"
1 @ 5/16-18 button cap screw 3/4"
7 @ 5/16 flat washers
2 @ 5/16 lock washers
2 @ 5/16-18 nylon locking nuts

All of the parts for my Grizzly tension release lever from Grizzly are in. I figure since I will be into the bandsaw for this conversion, I am making a couple of other mods at the same time. One of them related to the conversion.

#1. Replace the OEM tension spring with a Carter Cobra Coil. (On order from Woodcraft). Woodcraft item #14497.
#2. Return OEM guide assemblies fitted with cool blocks. The micro adjust on the roller guides is nice and all, but has been a hassle adjustment wise over time. I am wishing I hadn't done this particular mod. Cool Blocks Woodcraft Item #49H02.
#3. "Enhanced lower blade guide dust port" made from 4" S&D, pine, screws, and adhesive sealant. The DC will come into a 4x4x2.5 wye, the 2.5" will go up to the upper blade guide. I have tested the idea by bungee cording the hoses where I want them, and it works GREAT, I just want to set up a more proper mounting / hood system.

Not coming in quite yet, but planned for the next round of upgrades.
#1. Add Harbor Freight #90766 75 Watt Magnetic Base Light. (This will be moved from tool to tool as needed. I rarely need it for the bandsaw, but find lighting around the lathe to be pretty lousy...)
#2. Carter Urethane bandsaw tires. Woodcraft item #144969.
#3. Carter Clean Sweep wheel brush. Yes I can shop build one, but for the cost, I would be more money and LOTS more effort into a shop built brush.
#4. Rockler Safety shut off switch. I have hated the OEM switch mount location of my saw. Always felt it was unsafe. I want to move the switch to the frame, AND provide a large paddle STOP mechanism for the saw. (See the Steel City 14" band saw for ideas). I am planning on not plugging in as other members here have done, but actually wiring the switch to the motor in proper fashion, and eliminating the OEM switch. This will leave a switch plate hole in the stand. No biggie. Home Depot sells metal block off plates, simply use the threaded insert of a wall box spacer to back up the block off plate. Not sure if I can color match the stand, so chances are it will get a couple of coats of gloss black paint and then a couple of coats of clear.

Now I KNOW that if I try to sell it, I will never get out of this saw what I have in it. That's not the point. Unless something major happens to the frame, table, or trunion, I have no intention of getting rid of this saw. It's a good cutting machine, and has been very accepting of the various mods.

For those that are going to ask why not just buy a saw like a Grizz GO555 with the mods already done in the first place. Well aside from the blade guides, fence, and of course the tension release, the Grizzly would need the same mods. Now on sale, with the 20% off coupon, the 32208 runs just under half of what the Grizz does. Not to mention in all honesty, I like tinkering with machines too.

[cgallery]

Originally Posted by dbhost

Not to mention in all honesty, I like tinkering with machines too.

Nuttin' wrong w/ that.

Unless you're one of the lucky ones that never experiences machine failures, you're gonna have to learn how to work on the stuff anyway. I'd rather figure it out sooner, rather than later.

Impressive list, BTW.

[dbhost]

Thanks, one item that I am not putting on that list until the OEM one dies is...

Dayton 1.5 HP motor.

Friend of mine had one out of an old Rockwell band saw. It's actually an NOS replacement for a Rockwell. 110V capable, all the mount holes, pulley shaft etc match up. I figure I want to wear out the OEM one first... And from what I have heard, that is going to take a LONG time.

Of course IF I manage to wear out the bearings, I will upgrade those at that time as well with some nice Timken's...

[Hoover]

How do you like the Grizzly tensioning mod? Does the short handle do the trick for you? I don't have the Central 32208, but I have the Cummins bandsaw, bright yellow in all its glory(yeah, right).

[dbhost]

Dunno. Parts just came in yesterday...

[dbhost]

In regards to the Grizzly tension release upgrade...

I finally got all of the needed parts in tonight. I also picked up the tap, and a fresh center punch for fear of not being able to find one.

Had I ordered ALL of the correct parts the first time, and the error from the original thread didn't cost me a second shipment charge from Grizzly, this entire modification would have run me a total of $80.00 with shipping, and sales tax on locally sourced parts.

Before folks stammer about how that is too much, remember I am adding a Cobra Coil at the same time. Might as well since I will have the assembly apart...

Now if I can keep LOML from keeping me tied up with other stuff, this weekend, we operate...

[dbhost]

Okay boys and girls, the tension release, cool blocks, and Cobra Coil are done.

All the pieces and parts for the upgrade.


The set of cool blocks in the OEM blade guide assemblies replaces the aftermarket Accura blade guide assemblies. The Accuras were nice, but were a pain to reset every time I swapped blades.


The completed tension release assembly in the released position.


The completed tension release assembly in the tensioned position.


The tension release assembly was pretty straight forward just following the originally linked Photo HOWTO and using the Grizzly parts list as a guide as to how it should go together.

The hardest part of the entire process was adjusting it once it went together...

One step that I feel is VERY important that the originator of this mod did not mention in the tutorial, is that once you find the centers of where you want your holes, you really MUST center punch the spot you want your bit to drill to prevent the drill bit from skating on you.

[dbhost]

Originally Posted by Hoover

How do you like the Grizzly tensioning mod? Does the short handle do the trick for you? I don't have the Central 32208, but I have the Cummins bandsaw, bright yellow in all its glory(yeah, right).

So far so good. Time will tell, but it seems really well thought out. Not sure how to describe how much force on the handle is required to tension / detension the thing though. It is not loose, but it's not like I am trying to twist off a well torqued bolt either... The handle is long enough that it provides sufficient leverage, yet short enough it doesn't hang way off the machine and hang on stuff. After looking at the Carter lever, I really think I like this setup better...

I want to thank the person that dinged me on the 20th saying it looked like I needed to boost my post count. I am sorry you didn't like my updated postings, but I do have people that have flat out asked me to post my updates on these projects as they are interested. If you don't like my posts, please put me on your ignore list.

[Hoover]

Thank You for the updates and the PM. I personally like all the work that you have done on the mods, and the pictures. With all that you have provided I'm going to order the Grizzly parts, and do the mod.

The work you have done on the 32208 Central bandsaw is interesting to me and shows what can be done to personalize it. Thanx.

[BrazosJake]

Okey dokey, whatever floats your bubble. A little like hot-rodding a Yugo, though.