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Hot Rodding The Central Machinery #32208 14" 4 speed woodcutting band saw. The Grizzly Tension Release assembly and related components.
Before I dive into this, consider this a LICENSE for use.
This information is provided for informational purposes only, no warranty to effectiveness, safety, or fitness for any purpose is given. The reader assumes all responsibility for all consequences arising from the use of the information provided. The reader likewise holds the original poster harmless, and without liability for any and all results of the use of this information. This information was developed from various internet, and woodworking club resources. The modifications and procedures listed are merely a listing of what has worked for me. No claim is made that it will likewise work for you.
Now that I have my backside covered in case you can't follow instructions and manage to hurt yourself or seriously damage your band saw... Let's proceed.
Tools you will need.
#1. Central Machinery #32206, #32208, or similar C-frame type 14" band saw. This procedure has been completed on a Central Machinery 32208, others should be similar. YOU are responsible for figuring out the fine details of your own saw!
#2. Power Drill.
#3. 5/16" or 8mm tap and corresponding drill bit, and tap handle. (I chose 8mm for mine to keep my saw all metric).
#4. SAE, or Metric (depending on your choice) spanners, sockets, and ratchet.
#5. Sliding Square / tape measure, etc.. Measuring and marking devices.
#6. Center Punch and hammer.
The parts that need to be obtained from Grizzly. Suggestion, just call them up and order the parts, they WILL NOT support this mod, and will try to talk you out of it. I have double and triple checked the part #s against the Grizzly G0555 parts list.
33 P0555033A 1 Blade Adj. Screw Assy 7"
131A P0555131A 1 Fixed Spacer A.
131B P0555131B 1 Fixed Spacer B.
133 P0555133 1 Lever Rod
135 P0555135 1 Bushing
137 P0555137 1 Bracket
140 P0555140 2 Support Plate
141 P0555141 1 Fixed Base
Now the rest of this stuff SHOULD be findable at your local hardware store for a LOT less money than Grizzly sells it.
If you are wanting to go with the Metric to be 100% up to speed with Grizzly, the parts are...
130A PSS05M 1 Setscrew M5-.8x10. (Required to get this size, the Grizz parts are threaded for it!)
130B PSS07M 1 Setscrew M5-.8x5. (Required to get this size, the Grizz parts are threaded for it!)
132 PW04M 1 Flat Washer 10mm
134, PW01M 6 Flat Washer 8MM
136, PSB82M 1 Button Cap Screw M8-1.25x20
138, PB15M 2 Hex Bolt M8-1.25x40
139, P0555139 2 Nylon Nut M8-1.25
142, PLW04M 2 Lock Washer 8MM
143, PB09M 2 Hex Bolt M8-1.25x20
Per the original instructions, now taken offline (and not the route I took, I cannot attest to the function of this!), if you have SAE tap / die set, you can substitute SAE hardware for the metric stuff. Those components are...
2 @ 5/16-18 bolts 1 1/2"
2 @ 5/15-18 bolts 3/4"
1 @ 5/16-18 button cap screw 3/4"
7 @ 5/16 flat washers
2 @ 5/16 lock washers
2 @ 5/16-18 nylon locking nuts
Since I have to get so deep into the tension assembly to do this upgrade, I have added replacing the tension spring with a higher quality / tigheter spring to this requirement. You might as well do it now since you will likely need it later on, and already have the tension assembly apart...
#1. Replace the OEM tension spring with a Carter Cobra Coil. (On order from Woodcraft). Woodcraft item #14497.
You will also need some consumables for this project. Specifically thread cutting oil or similar light machine oil, some brake parts cleaner to remove the lubricant
Now on to the modification.
Step #1. Strip the tension assembly down by turning off the tension adjuster knob, counter clockwise, fully, and carefully until the knob comes out of the retaining square nut making certain to not drop, or lose the square nut. While this is out, remove the original tension spring. It may help to hold the square nut in its bore with a piece of masking tape.
Step #2. align the P0555141 fixed base on the left upper arm of the frame of the two arms that form the U that the tensioner mounts between. The TOP hole (that is the top of the two holes the the narrow section that goes against the saw frame, in reality it is the middle hole.) in this assembly should be centered 1/2" below the top of this arm. I measured this on MY saw, to the centerline of the top bolt, it is 1/2" in from the top, and 1/2" in from the left side. Mark the center where both holes should be. I used a fine point sharpie through the bolt holes.
Step #3. Using a center punch and hammer, punch the center of the bolt holes. This will help keep the drill bit from walking when you drill the holes.
Step #4. Drill the holes, being careful not to drill through the slot that the wheel adjuster rides in. Pay particular attention that you drill in STRAIGHT. If you have one, a drill guide might be helpful.
Step #5. Tap the holes with your tap, and some light thread cutting oil. Clean the tapped holes.
Step #6. Mark the center of the bolt on for the right arm, 1/2" down from the top, and approximately 4-5/16" from the top hole on the left arm. Verify this measurement with the cross rods. Measure center of bolt hole to center of bolt hole. I measured center of bolt head to center of bolt head and got my measurement...
Step #7. Center punch the spot for this hole.
Step #8. Drill and tape the same way you did with the holes on the left.
Step #9. Clean the threaded bolt holes out with something like CRC Brakleen. You want NO LUBRICANTS in there!
Step #10 Assemble the P0555141 fixed base to the upper left arm, using the bolts, lock washers, and flat washers. Apply a drop of Loctite thread locker to each fastener to keep it from vibrating out if you don't trust the lock washers.
Step #11. Drop new tension spring into place.
Step #12. Install remaining components per blow up diagram at http://cdn2.grizzly.com/partslists/g0555_pl.pdf.
Before I dive into this, consider this a LICENSE for use.
This information is provided for informational purposes only, no warranty to effectiveness, safety, or fitness for any purpose is given. The reader assumes all responsibility for all consequences arising from the use of the information provided. The reader likewise holds the original poster harmless, and without liability for any and all results of the use of this information. This information was developed from various internet, and woodworking club resources. The modifications and procedures listed are merely a listing of what has worked for me. No claim is made that it will likewise work for you.
Now that I have my backside covered in case you can't follow instructions and manage to hurt yourself or seriously damage your band saw... Let's proceed.
Tools you will need.
#1. Central Machinery #32206, #32208, or similar C-frame type 14" band saw. This procedure has been completed on a Central Machinery 32208, others should be similar. YOU are responsible for figuring out the fine details of your own saw!
#2. Power Drill.
#3. 5/16" or 8mm tap and corresponding drill bit, and tap handle. (I chose 8mm for mine to keep my saw all metric).
#4. SAE, or Metric (depending on your choice) spanners, sockets, and ratchet.
#5. Sliding Square / tape measure, etc.. Measuring and marking devices.
#6. Center Punch and hammer.
The parts that need to be obtained from Grizzly. Suggestion, just call them up and order the parts, they WILL NOT support this mod, and will try to talk you out of it. I have double and triple checked the part #s against the Grizzly G0555 parts list.
33 P0555033A 1 Blade Adj. Screw Assy 7"
131A P0555131A 1 Fixed Spacer A.
131B P0555131B 1 Fixed Spacer B.
133 P0555133 1 Lever Rod
135 P0555135 1 Bushing
137 P0555137 1 Bracket
140 P0555140 2 Support Plate
141 P0555141 1 Fixed Base
Now the rest of this stuff SHOULD be findable at your local hardware store for a LOT less money than Grizzly sells it.
If you are wanting to go with the Metric to be 100% up to speed with Grizzly, the parts are...
130A PSS05M 1 Setscrew M5-.8x10. (Required to get this size, the Grizz parts are threaded for it!)
130B PSS07M 1 Setscrew M5-.8x5. (Required to get this size, the Grizz parts are threaded for it!)
132 PW04M 1 Flat Washer 10mm
134, PW01M 6 Flat Washer 8MM
136, PSB82M 1 Button Cap Screw M8-1.25x20
138, PB15M 2 Hex Bolt M8-1.25x40
139, P0555139 2 Nylon Nut M8-1.25
142, PLW04M 2 Lock Washer 8MM
143, PB09M 2 Hex Bolt M8-1.25x20
Per the original instructions, now taken offline (and not the route I took, I cannot attest to the function of this!), if you have SAE tap / die set, you can substitute SAE hardware for the metric stuff. Those components are...
2 @ 5/16-18 bolts 1 1/2"
2 @ 5/15-18 bolts 3/4"
1 @ 5/16-18 button cap screw 3/4"
7 @ 5/16 flat washers
2 @ 5/16 lock washers
2 @ 5/16-18 nylon locking nuts
Since I have to get so deep into the tension assembly to do this upgrade, I have added replacing the tension spring with a higher quality / tigheter spring to this requirement. You might as well do it now since you will likely need it later on, and already have the tension assembly apart...
#1. Replace the OEM tension spring with a Carter Cobra Coil. (On order from Woodcraft). Woodcraft item #14497.
You will also need some consumables for this project. Specifically thread cutting oil or similar light machine oil, some brake parts cleaner to remove the lubricant
Now on to the modification.
Step #1. Strip the tension assembly down by turning off the tension adjuster knob, counter clockwise, fully, and carefully until the knob comes out of the retaining square nut making certain to not drop, or lose the square nut. While this is out, remove the original tension spring. It may help to hold the square nut in its bore with a piece of masking tape.
Step #2. align the P0555141 fixed base on the left upper arm of the frame of the two arms that form the U that the tensioner mounts between. The TOP hole (that is the top of the two holes the the narrow section that goes against the saw frame, in reality it is the middle hole.) in this assembly should be centered 1/2" below the top of this arm. I measured this on MY saw, to the centerline of the top bolt, it is 1/2" in from the top, and 1/2" in from the left side. Mark the center where both holes should be. I used a fine point sharpie through the bolt holes.
Step #3. Using a center punch and hammer, punch the center of the bolt holes. This will help keep the drill bit from walking when you drill the holes.
Step #4. Drill the holes, being careful not to drill through the slot that the wheel adjuster rides in. Pay particular attention that you drill in STRAIGHT. If you have one, a drill guide might be helpful.
Step #5. Tap the holes with your tap, and some light thread cutting oil. Clean the tapped holes.
Step #6. Mark the center of the bolt on for the right arm, 1/2" down from the top, and approximately 4-5/16" from the top hole on the left arm. Verify this measurement with the cross rods. Measure center of bolt hole to center of bolt hole. I measured center of bolt head to center of bolt head and got my measurement...
Step #7. Center punch the spot for this hole.
Step #8. Drill and tape the same way you did with the holes on the left.
Step #9. Clean the threaded bolt holes out with something like CRC Brakleen. You want NO LUBRICANTS in there!
Step #10 Assemble the P0555141 fixed base to the upper left arm, using the bolts, lock washers, and flat washers. Apply a drop of Loctite thread locker to each fastener to keep it from vibrating out if you don't trust the lock washers.
Step #11. Drop new tension spring into place.
Step #12. Install remaining components per blow up diagram at http://cdn2.grizzly.com/partslists/g0555_pl.pdf.