Trimming edge veneer on plywood

[pelligrini]

How do you guys trim your edge veneer the you applied to plywood?

I built a quick little shelf/rack for my external drives, UPSs and cable box yesterday. I used some 1/2" birch ply leftovers for the shelves and some old 3/4 birch iron on veneer for the edges of it.

I tried several methods and they all seemed to go too slow or caused problems. I tried my colt with a cheap 1/4" laminate trimming bit (small single flute with smooth edges above and below). I didn't have a 1/4" flush trim bit with a bearing. It left marks on the soft & very thin plywood. I tried a 1/4" spiral bit with the fence but it caused a bunch of tearout, especially when it got gummed up with iron on glue.

I tried a wide sharp chisel which seemed to go the quickest, but sometimes it would catch the grain of the veneer and I'd slightly gouge the plywood face. The grain of the veneer seemed to changed direction a lot.

I trimmed it with a knife fairly close to the plywood and tried several types of planes with different depth settings getting mixed results.

The method I used most and liked the best was using my Stanley #180 rabbet plane with the depth stop set slightly below the blade and the fence set pretty far in. I was able to trim the edge veneer to about a 32nd or less proud of the plywood. The steel depth stop of the rabbet plane would leave marks on the plywood if I wasn't careful. I then flush trimmed it with a low angle block plane set to some light shavings.

I didn't try my 1/2" flush trim bit as I did not want to set up my big router. I figured I would get some marks and tearout like I was getting with my colt.

I didn't try to sand the edge flush once trimmed close as the face veneer on the plywood was really thin.

So, what's your preferred method?

[cabinetman]

I feel your pain. BTDT with all those items. I find a mill file works best. I use either a 12", or a 14" Plasti-Cut (a laminate file). Actually the edge of the file does most of the work. If you hold the file flat to the shelf and lift the end slightly, the file is used with the handle ahead of the end. IOW, you want the filing action to be a push only stroke entering at an angle pushing the veneer towards the substrate.

The short push only stroke will use the edge of the file to cleanly shear off the veneer. Once a pass is made go back and file towards the other end. The file only needs a slight angle up from flat to be effective. You'll see when the adhesive line appears and you are close to the plywood veneer.

This description may sound confusing, and I could elaborate further if need be. This method is the fastest way IMO.
.

[pelligrini]

I might have to try that. I've read about filing but it never done it, or seen it explained very well. I grabbed my new smaller mill file, but I didn't even try to put it to the wood. I just imagined a big mess.

I thought about picking up an inexpensive wide chisel, cranking the neck and dubbing the corners. I also considered shimming underneath my tall router table fence so the edge of the iron on would go under it.

[atgcpaul]

I've never tried filiing but I've heard from those in the know that that's the
way to do it for edge veneer. You can also use a a downcut spiral bit in
your router which should help with the tearout.

[conwaygolfer]

Practical ET-100

I use the above product. Do a google search for it to see what I am talking about. I paid around $10.00 for it several years ago. It is better than anything else I have tried. You place this tool on the edge and push. It will cut both sides even (flush) with the wood or on a 45 if you desire.

I usually buy the edge banding in 25 ft. rolls and this tool is a time saver.

Conwaygolfer

[Stytooner]

The file method does work the best really. Even for thicker laminates. If it will cut plastics cleanly, then wood isn't an issue. It may take just a few practice tries. I always rounded the edges of our counter tops with a file. Sometimes we had to install the laminates in place. In corners, a router couldn't get into the edge banding. A simple file took care of it quickly and cleanly. Pressure always on the push stroke. Don' rake it back across on the pull back. Set it. Push it and remove. Then repeat. You want to take anywhere from maybe 1/2" to an inch per cut. As flat as possible, but enough clearance not to scratch the flat surface. That is what will take the practice. Use a good file too. A worn one will not be very kind.

[pelligrini]

Filing works great. I wish I would have had a bigger file made for laminate, but I didn't have one. I tried out a new 8" mill file I got recently for sharpening my card scrapers. It worked like a champ. I edged and trimmed 3 larger shelves is less than half the time it took me to do two smaller ones last weekend.

Keeping the file clean is a must. The iron on glue can gum it up pretty quick. A few quick passes with my fine shop brush cleaned it up easily.

[massanutten]

I use the above product. Do a google search for it to see what I am talking about. I paid around $10.00 for it several years ago. It is better than anything else I have tried. You place this tool on the edge and push. It will cut both sides even (flush) with the wood or on a 45 if you desire.

I usually buy the edge banding in 25 ft. rolls and this tool is a time saver.

Conwaygolfer

Ditto on double edge laminate trimmer. Picked one up for same price about a year ago. Picked up some extra blades - does the trick for me. Dual sided, flush or bevel trim. You can do do a single side edge as well

[conwaygolfer]

I always do the single edge side myself. As I am installing the edge band, I keep it flush on one side and only have to cut the opposite side.

Conwaygolfer

[radhak]

After I had gone thru all that you said, I got this at HD:



also available online. Best possible solution, I'd say.

I wish I had something like that to trim hardwood edging too. I see same issues there.

[Larryl]

After I had gone thru all that you said, I got this at HD:



also available online. Best possible solution, I'd say.

I wish I had something like that to trim hardwood edging too. I see same issues there.

Hey Radhak, where in HD did you find it?

[radhak]

Hey Radhak, where in HD did you find it?

Been a couple of years, but I think it was next to the iron-on veneer bands, which were next to the plywood panels; even Lowes had them. You could check online if they have it in your local; else buy online. I also remember that Ace Hardware used to carry them too.

I liked these, but I heard some grumble about the fact that the blades cannot be sharpened, in which case these would be an option.