Dado Set buying recommendation?

[wd4lc]

My apologies as I'm not sure if this should be in this forum or the tool forum (given this is an accessory).

I'm looking to buy my first Dado set for my BT3100. I would like to try and cut some lap joints but would like to use it for any and everything obviously. I do have a PC jig for box (and dovetail) joints.

$100 range or less preferably.

More importantly, what should I consider in terms of compatibility to the saw. For instance, I read a post from LCHIEN I believe stating that 6" and 8" each had its own pros and cons.
In all honesty, when I was searching Rockler online, I was actually looking for 10" Dado sets because I assumed it would be the same size as the regular table saw blade. So this proves I know very little. I do know that I can't afford those "dial" sets.

Thank you.

[dbhost]

In our saws, an 8" dado stack is a tight fit, and honestly, the 1.5 HP motor is a bit small to drive that much mass through hardwood... Ryobi in the owners manual recommends using a 6" dado stack.

I have the Oshlun 6" dado stack. I believe the model is SDS0630. I got it at Rockler on Sale, it is presently $79.99

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17313&filter=Dado

The Freud 6" dadoes are nice too...

One thing I prefer about the Oshlun set is the full body chippers instead of the wing style that Freud uses. It seems to me, maybe right, maybe wrong, but it seems like a solid body chipper would be more balanced and lend itself toward a cleaner cut...

[Knottscott]

You're not likely to actually need the extra depth of cut from an 8", but it can come in handy on occasion. Having the ability to use either 6" or 8" improves your chances of getting the best dado for your money.

IMHO the best set for $100 is the Delta/DeWalt 7670....similar design as the Forrest Dado King, great performance, great carrying case, very nice shim stock. Currently on sale for $85 shipped from Cripe Distribution.

I'm less versed in the 6"...the best stack I know of at any price is the Infinity Dadonator, which is available in 6", but will run closer to $180 w/discounts. The Freud SD206 is a good set and should be easy to find in your price range. The Oshlun (formerly Avenger) sets get good marks for value.

[Dal300]

I have an Onsrud 8" Dado set and a Freud 6" Dado set. There are different uses for each of them.

For deep dado's in hardwood I prefer the Freud, but have had to use the Onsrud a time or two with no problem.

I usually save the Onsrud for softwood.

[pelligrini]

Our own Brian Holbren has the 6" Oshlun for $69.95. http://www.holbren.com/home.php?cat=892

I picked up the Oshlun stack last year from the 2x6 Challenge surplus prize auction. I've only used it a couple times, but I am really pleased with it.

There can be clearance issues on a BT using an 8" stack and trying to go a full 3/4" wide. The blade can hit the casting in the saw.

[sscherin]

When I had my BT3100 I had a Freud SD208 stack Dado.. IT worked great and I didn't have any issues with hitting on 3/4 "cuts. I think I had the small arbor spacer in.
It came with shims to adjust for a true 3/4" cut vs the slightly thinner plywood widths.

$83 at amazon..

I never needed the full depth so a 6" should also work just fine.

[LCHIEN]

the tradeoff using a 8" dado on the BT3:
If you leave the last 1/4" arbor spacer on you can only get about 5/8 dado width on without having the left blades sitting on the threads which let it sit lower and make an uneven bottom. Also you may have to leave the blade washer off the left... not really recommended.
If you take off the 1/4" spacer you can get all the stack on to 13/16" width on the flat part of the arbor BUT the right blade may be striking the housing.

With a 6" dado you can take off all the spacers and get the full 13/16" on the arbor properly.

If you don't plan to do more than 5/8" dado then 8" is OK.

I don't really believe the malarky about the BT3 being too underpowered for 8"

I have both an 8" set and a 6" set and have used both. I also have the Freud Box Joint set which is 8" and won't have a problem because its less than 5/8" (does perfect 3/8" and 1/4" dadoes.).

[wd4lc]

Thanks for the suggestions. Looks like there are a few good ones to choose from.

I popped my blade all the way up the other day to see how high it would go. From that point I determined that a 6" dado set would go up 1-1/2" and an 8" would hit a max height of 2-1/2" correct.

Out of curiousity, are the blades on the 8" thicker than the 6" sets? Why would the 8" set not fit as well as the 6" set?

Also, would I need to purchase (or create) a special dado insert plate?

[LCHIEN]

the quick skinny is yes your heights sound about right, honestly I can count to one the number of times i needed the 2.5" height of a 8" dado, I have one but in fact just made multiple cuts with the regular blade since I was too lazy to change the blade for a single short slot. So I've never actually used a 2.5" deep dado - I'm guessing most people don't, either.

The blades are the same thickness, usually 2 ea 1/8" cutters, 4 ea 1/8" chippers and one 1/16th chipper.

On a BT3 you have some clearance issues with the 8" I discussed in post#7 above and in my FAQ. Its doesn't quite make dadoes over 5/8" well but it does work to a degree. The 6" works well all the way to 13/16". It would be my real recommendation to get a quality 6" dado (Freud-what I have or maybe Oshlun-others recommend) for maximum enjoyment.

There's a metal dado throat plate for the BT3, works best with the 6". But you can cut your own easily of wood. You should have one, for sure. Maybe several depending upon the width and depth range you plan to use. If you cut one, cut several extra blanks.

[vaking]

I can add that I havea 6" stacked dado but I also have an 8" craftsman Excalibur "double-wobble" dado. This is in the category of adjustable or dial dado. It has 2 blades that can be adjusted for varying dado thickness by making them angled. It is not great, it leaves bottom not exactly even and getting it on the arbor is somewhat of a pain, but it can be done.

[LCHIEN]

I can add that I havea 6" stacked dado but I also have an 8" craftsman Excalibur "double-wobble" dado. This is in the category of adjustable or dial dado. It has 2 blades that can be adjusted for varying dado thickness by making them angled. It is not great, it leaves bottom not exactly even and getting it on the arbor is somewhat of a pain, but it can be done.

I have one of those too (8" double bladed wobble dado Sears Excaliber). THe bottom is like a very, very shallow "W" not perfectly flat but flatter than a single blade wobbler. The advantage of this dado on the BT3 is that having a solid hub, you don't have to worry about unevenness due to chippers on the arbor thread. You do have to worry about laeving the left-side blade washer off (it seems to be OK) and it is a REAL BEAR to get on the arbor due to the width of the blade and the dust shround being in the way. Takes all kinds of contortions and I have to figure it out every time i use it. Thes are not too common anymore and I usually don't talk about it until you brought it up!

[greenacres2]

I have one of those too (8" double bladed wobble dado Sears Excaliber)...The advantage of this dado on the BT3 is that having a solid hub, you don't have to worry about unevenness due to chippers on the arbor thread...

I've never used a dado blade or set..the comment above would come into play on a wider dado--like 5/8" or so and wider where the stacked set is at the end of the arbor?? Am i thinking right?

Thanks,
earl

[LCHIEN]

I've never used a dado blade or set..the comment above would come into play on a wider dado--like 5/8" or so and wider where the stacked set is at the end of the arbor?? Am i thinking right?

Thanks,
earl

AGAIN:

the tradeoff using a 8" dado on the BT3:
If you leave the last 1/4" arbor spacer on you can only get about 5/8 dado width on without having the left blades sitting on the threads which let it sit lower (about .050 offcenter) and make an uneven bottom. Also you may have to leave the blade washer off the left... not really recommended.
If you take off the 1/4" spacer you can get all the stack on to 13/16" width on the flat part of the arbor BUT the right blade may be striking the housing.

With a 6" dado you can take off all the spacers and get the full 13/16" on the arbor properly.

If you don't plan to do more than 5/8" dado on a BT3 then 8" is OK.

P.S. You'll likely want 3/4" or 13/16" wide dadoes much more often than you'll want dadoes between 1.5 and 2.5" deep. Get the 6"!

[wd4lc]

the quick skinny is yes your heights sound about right, honestly I can count to one the number of times i needed the 2.5" height of a 8" dado, I have one but in fact just made multiple cuts with the regular blade since I was too lazy to change the blade for a single short slot. So I've never actually used a 2.5" deep dado - I'm guessing most people don't, either.

The blades are the same thickness, usually 2 ea 1/8" cutters, 4 ea 1/8" chippers and one 1/16th chipper.

On a BT3 you have some clearance issues with the 8" I discussed in post#7 above and in my FAQ. Its doesn't quite make dadoes over 5/8" well but it does work to a degree. The 6" works well all the way to 13/16". It would be my real recommendation to get a quality 6" dado (Freud-what I have or maybe Oshlun-others recommend) for maximum enjoyment.

There's a metal dado throat plate for the BT3, works best with the 6". But you can cut your own easily of wood. You should have one, for sure. Maybe several depending upon the width and depth range you plan to use. If you cut one, cut several extra blanks.

Thanks, LCHIEN. 6" it is then. Time to start pushing those Woodcraft referrals for a Dado set!

May try to make my own throat plate. I need to make a no-clearance plate as well.

[wd4lc]

I was finally ready to shell out the money for a dado set. A rarity for me, I had actually convinced myself to upgrade from the original Oshlun 6" buying plan to the other suggested Delta set. Am I correct that Delta does not sell a set like that in a 6" series? I could not find anything (other than what seemed to be an economy set that looked nothing like the 7670 case or chipper blades).

It looks like dbhost has the Oshlun 6" and LCHIEN has the Freud 6". Both sets have great reviews on Amazon and have the support of these two respected members. A few things I've read here and on the reviews & descriptions as I'm trying to figure out where I should lay my money down..

Oshlun has full body chippers. Less wobble perhaps = cleaner cuts.
Freud does not have full body chippers. Less weight perhaps = more power.
Oshlun has a poor cardboard case.
Freud has a decent plastic case.
Oshlun states "Produces small score marks on the outer edges to help eliminate tear out and splintering." (not sure if that is a concern)
Freud is $20 more expensive.

Am I over-thinking this? Is there any real difference that I should be concerned with between the two sets or are they fairly comparable? I don't mind paying $20 more if Freud is a better set. That said the Oshlun set has a ton more reviews. Can you tell I need to feel comfy with the decision when spending any type of money!

One last thing please. I want to actually make corner laps. It occurred to me that these joint cuts would be at least twice wider than the sets accommodate at their widest settings with all of the shims (7/8" Freud or 29/32" Oshlun). Would making 2 or 3 adjacent passes to create a 2-1/2" joint be a concern with dado sets....or is this also a fairly regular function of the sets?