BT3100Switch Replacement

[LYU370]

Well I finally got around to replacing the troublesome switch on the saw with the switch from Sears. I must say it's quite a bit bigger than the original Ryobi switch.

[siliconbauhaus]

very nice mate...perhaps you should do a article on how and what you did ?

[Garasaki]

I did exactly the same thing with exactly the same switch on my saw.

I have the ORIGINAL Ryobi switch on mine...you know, the deathtrap one...sticks in the on position, etc etc. Needless to say the sears one was a big step up for me.

Not only is the switch better, but the position of the switch (instead of down and to the right of the blade) is MUCH safer. You can complete an entire cut, then power the saw down, without crossing the kickback zone (always to the left of the blade). With the old switch position, I often found myself performing a cut while standing on the left side, then holding a cut piece on the saw with my right hand, while floundering for the switch with my left hand (and crouching down putting my directly in the kickback zone)...hoping when I finally found the switch it actually shut off instead of sticking!

I highly recommend this ~30 dollar mod for EVERYONE.

[siliconbauhaus]

whats the sears part number for that?

[LinuxRandal]

OR91712


Info on woodnet, showed the person that I think got us all started on this, had purchased via this part number, and then the paddle.
He found out, the hard way, even thought the paddle isn't shown, the switch above has it, for around the same price as the paddle seperately.

I ordered one for the router table, and need to get one for the saw.

[Garasaki]

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=28751

Search function is your friend

[LYU370]

very nice mate...perhaps you should do a article on how and what you did ?

Fairly simple to do, just need a few wire nuts and you need to cut a few wires. I kept the plug & outlet on the right side of the saw intact, just bypassed the original switch. The Sears switch comes with one of those PC type plugs that you need to cut off. Then cut the connector off the black wire from the outlet on the saw that goes to the old switch, cut the connectors off of the white wire and the green ground. Strip the ends off the wires and connect them with the wire nuts to the cord from the sears switch, put everything back in place and you're done. I mounted mine to rails on the left side using a couple T nuts. If you use the 5/16 T nuts, you'll need to enlarge the holes on the switch.

[Garasaki]

Then cut the connector off the black wire from the outlet on the saw that goes to the old switch, cut the connectors off of the white wire and the green ground. Strip the ends off the wires and connect them with the wire nuts to the cord from the sears switch, put everything back in place and you're done.

Alternatively, you could chop off the plug that comes with the switch, and buy a standard female plug and wire it onto the end of the switch cord (really easy to do). This avoids modding the actual saw in any way shape or form and allows you to use the switch with any other piece of equipment you may want to in the future.

I also mounted to the rails with Tnuts, had to enlarge the switches mounting holes too. No big whoop. Very easy installation in the end...takes some time though.